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The reapplication of the moisture barrier cannot be done with the same oem bonding agent. It is not available anywhere that I could find. Not even through Honda parts counters and the parts guys got nowhere with their corporate support.

What you have to do is finish all work. ALL WORK Once you are sure you’re ready to close up the door, get a can of ether based engine starting fluid spray. Lightly wet the area around the metal door opening with it and clean all residue of oils for a good bonding surface. Next. Get your moisture barrier inserts and hope you didn’t get any oils or grease on the adhesive bead. With light pressure on the spray nozzle lightly wet the bonding bead around the insert. The adhesive will reactivate in about 20 seconds. Place the insert over the opening exactly where the rolled edge pops into the opening. Speeds with your fingers over the bead of adhesive track. I used a golf ball and it bonded better than it was at the factory. There was a lot of air leakage prior to this door speaker upgrade.

As for noise attenuation materials. I use only 1/2” thick neoprene sheeting foam. I also use dedicated 3M foam bonding spray for guaranteed tight adhesion and sealing out moisture. Heat and water is not an issue.

CompMan

I’d really like to get down in the weeds detailed info on how you bring warmth and body to the Odyssey sound system without losing any OEM head unit functionality. I have experienced the same lack of mid base in my upgrades. My Infinity Kappa upgrades sound great except they have no midbase. Athens subwoofer is amazing with the upgrades I performed on the OEM enclosure, “see my other posts for details”.

I think we all would benefit from what you’ve found if the OEM controls and conveniences are preserved.

Thanks
 

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Impressive!

What are your thoughts on the setup I am considering (linked in first post)? Another poster that swapped out his factory speakers mentioned these foam sound dampeners...worth trying? My only worry is the window not being able to function if those foam dampeners are used...but I haven't seen behind the door panel yet.

EDIT: I am hoping the speakers I am eyeing swap in with little modification needed. Another poster reported using the Pioneer sub I have linked above with no issues but you mentioned not being able to find one that worked.
Thank you!

I'm not a fan of so called "SQ" systems, they need precise installation, hardware, wiring etc. At least not anymore.

My first system looked like this:
1. Front doors - Focal Integration ISS 165
2. Rear doors - Focal Integration ISC 165
3. Kilmat front entire doors
4. Sound absorbing foam on front door panels
5. Metra 72-7800 speaker wiring adapters
6. Stock sub, no mods

7. Ai HSB524 speaker adapters
8. Focal tweeters


Results was better than stock, obviously, but not enough, good pair of speaker always need good amplifier or sound processor. Midbass speakers are good if you listen quality music and they usually have too much bass, subwoofer is what you need to bass, not 6.5 inch speakers in your doors, but again, this is just my taste. Stock systems are very limited and only exist to make some sort of noise to satisfy average costumers

My second attempt looks like this:
1. Front doors - Skar Audio NPX 65 Neodymium loud speakers
2. Rear doors - Skar Audio NPX 65 Neodymium loud speakers
3. Front doors have same sound deadening treatment
4. Added road kill foam speaker enhancement kit
5. Metra 72-7800 speaker wiring adapters
7. Ai HSB524 speaker adapters
8. Added polyfil in sub box
9. Full sound deadening of the sub box and surrounding
10. Stock tweeters

Much better, even better than first system. I can hear subwoofer, door speakers are loud and clear, no bass going to front and rear doors, so I can go louder. Midrange, so called pro loud speakers, are the way to go, they have very low sensitive and due to specifics of midrange loud speakers these can go louder with stock amplifier.



For speaker enhancement foam dampeners, I used this kit and even used left overs for my sub. I do hear a big difference since sound is now pointed right outside the door panel, not inside. with the kit I used there is no issues with window mechanism since window doesn't go all the way down, it stops right before the speaker so you can use thick dampeners, I was worried too, but it has enough clearance.

Ts-SW2002D2 sub is actually what I'm thinking to replace my OEM now, I tried different shallow mount speakers - Skar Audio, Hertz, Alpine... but they all needed box modifications, sounds like that Pioneer might fit without any mods

I'm continuing sound deadening my van, I think I'm done with a system for now, it is loud and clear :)
Hopefully it helps.
 

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  1. Focal component mid bass? Is that 3 speakers - component plus mid bass plus mid range? Which model did you try?
  2. The tweeters on the infinity REF-6530cx are a huge upgrade over the stock tweeters... strongly recommend swapping out the tweeters too.
  3. I see you put sound deadening all over the inside of the door skin by removing the plastic inserts glued to the door frame (or whatever the middle metal frame thing that's between the outer skin and the inside trim panel is called). How did you re-adhere the plastic inserts to keep the moisture out?
Thanks!
1. Focal Integration ISS 165, midbass kit - 6.5 inch midbass, tweeter
2. I replaced stock with Focal, but they were meh, not as bright as stock
3. you can use automotive glue or any sort of adhesive, even double sided tape. I simply heat up the stock glue and put it back, also applied few pieces of sound deadening on top, ideally you remove it and do the whole door with a layer of sound deadening
This is what I did (keep in mind I'm not done yet, once I get more stuff I'll continue)
 

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