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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I borught my van to be checked by a honda mechanic who was willing to do a side job for me as mentioned on my prior post. He was referred to me by a co-worker who also happens to work the at the dealership part-time. I took my van to him last night so he can inspect and check the condition of the van in order to make further recommendations. He seemed very competent and knowledgeable of his craft and did not mention any bogus observations, nor pushed me to do anything more that I know should be done.

I am aware that my brakes are due for replacement soon, and since I wanted to do all fluid drain/flush, brakes fluid included, he advised me to do it when I am ready to have the pads/rotors replaced which totally make sense. However, he mentioned to me that since I am using an aftermarket rotors (Centric), he is not advising me to have it resurfaced/turned. While he said the rotors are within the specd limits, he had some mediocre results with turning aftermarket rotors. He said the only rotors he would resurface/turn are the OEM ones but it is still totally up to me. He also said OEM pads are still his recommended pads for longevity, but I might stick to Raybestos EHTs all around eventhough it only lasted for approximately 3 years.

So I was wondering what are your experiences when resurfacing/turning aftermarket rotors?
And if I end up deciding on just getting a new set of rotors, I might also try the Raybestos Element coated rotors.

Thank you!
 

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With regard to installing Honda rotors and or Honda pads the response should be - caution there be dragons there. Many a Honda owner has resolved nasty vibration pulsing when braking by installing non-Honda parts. Measure the thickness of your rotors yourself and see how much metal is left minus the minimum allowed thickness (typ marked on edge of rotor) per the rotor manufacturer, that will tell you if they are machinable. Most people these days just replace rotors if suspect of thickness or scoring because they are low cost.

- DanaH, 14LX
 

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Do not turn any rotors, aftermarket or OEM. These vans don't need less rotor mass, they need more.

You're already using Centric rotors, if I read this correctly.

If your tech is amenable to this, just sand the rotor surfaces with 100 grit garnet sandpaper, then bed-in the new pads (whether OEM or aftermarket).

That's it.

However ... with current labor rates, it's just less expensive to just buy new, OEM-quality rotors from Centric, or Meyle. Meyle are the go-to replacement rotor for one of our resident professional mechs on this forum (John Clark). I've used them, on his recommendation.

For bedding-in procedures, see this Link from Stop-Tech (they are the performance braking division of Centric).

Have used these Stop-Tech bed-in procedures on half a dozen vehicles, from 1/2-ton truck to a pair of Odysseys and regular sedans, with excellent results. Over 430,000 miles of shudder free, strong, positive braking performance between our pair of Odysseys (i.e., ~100,000 miles per set of OEM pads) ...

... and we often towed heavy, with both Odysseys.

I'm a believer in bedding in pads to maintain or regain smooth, positive braking performance.

OF
 

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I “turn” once then replace.
I use cryogenic treated rotors so one turning around 80k miles gives me many more miles.

My rotor turner is busy with dealership business because of oem part shortages
 

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Another vote to not have them turned. While turning them is relatively cheap, it's inconvenient and time consuming. If you're having the job done at the dealer, the price you're paying for labor to turn the rotors is probably more than new rotors would be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks all. The Centric coated rotors served me well for the past 4 years. Coming from the warped OEM rotor to the Centric was nigth and day. Ive decided this time to use some Raybestos element rotors instead of the same centric due to price inflation. The Raybestos were priced decently in Rockauto. I will also be using the and Raybestos EHT pads all around.
 

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Thanks all. The Centric coated rotors served me well for the past 4 years. Coming from the warped OEM rotor to the Centric was nigth and day. Ive decided this time to use some Raybestos element rotors instead of the same centric due to price inflation. The Raybestos were priced decently in Rockauto. I will also be using the and Raybestos EHT pads all around.
Raybestos EHT is a solid choice. I have used them on three cars and they have performed very well.
 

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Regardless of what you choose (I bought 4 sets before buying centric). After reading about the bedding in procedure, I told my mechanic (After buying them from Rockauto) I would bed them in myself. I did this. The (Centric recommended bed in procedure calls for you basically to push the brakes so hard that you will think they might be on fire due to the smoke and smell)". That procedure just "Bedded in" your brakes, 1 year later they work perfectly.
 

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While I don't think turning rotors is cost effective anywhere (unless disposing of vehicle to a stranger), it's totally a waste if the vehicle lives in the Rust Belt.
 

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...Coming from the warped OEM rotor to the Centric ..
They don't "warp." They're made of cast iron. So are the Centric rotors.

If you ever got cast iron hot enough to cause actual physical and measurable deformation, you'd have other issues (like heat-induced failure of the brake lines, a hydraulically fueled fire, brake pad fire, etc.).

That isn't ever going to happen on a generic car made for public roads.

I've measured several rotors that gave indications they were "warped" (shuddering on braking, shaking steering on braking, etc.). None were warped, ever. No problems with parallelism or thickness variation. Those rotors with rotten braking characteristics were all straight and true.

They all most likely had uneven deposition of brake pad material on the face of each rotor. I can guarantee that most people claiming "warped" rotors have never performed thorough measurements with a dial gauge or digital calipers.

OF
 

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I suspect there are plenty of people out there who refer to their rotors as warped but also know that it's not actually warped. I think it's just become the term used despite it being incorrect. SImilar to how the spool valve in VCM engines is often called a "VTEC solenoid" despite it having nothing to do with the VTEC system.
 

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I suspect there are plenty of people out there who refer to their rotors as warped but also know that it's not actually warped. I think it's just become the term used despite it being incorrect. SImilar to how the spool valve in VCM engines is often called a "VTEC solenoid" despite it having nothing to do with the VTEC system.
I beg to differ. I suspect that those that use the term "warped' don't really know that it's pad deposits and may not know about proper bedding procedures to prevent it, etc. I suspect that they really believe that the rotors are warped.

burakol: Proof me wrong. What did you mean when you said "Coming from the warped OEM rotor".

Don't worry, we're all (mostly) friends here. No one will shame you. Did you mean warped as in "bent" or did you mean something else? If it was something else, why did you use the term "warped"?

Again, no shame...I'll admit that I used think that rotors actually warped due to heat. Just curious about others.
 

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I beg to differ. I suspect that those that use the term "warped' don't really know that it's pad deposits and may not know about proper bedding procedures to prevent it, etc. I suspect that they really believe that the rotors are warped.
I suspect there are people like this out there as well, I just don't think everyone who uses the term actually believes it.
 

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O'Reilly turns rotors for $8 a piece. Every one near me does anyway. I still don't do it.
Even if I thought turning rotors was an acceptable (or good) idea, I have no faith that the people at the chain stores know enough about machining to get reliable results. It's not a "set and forget" process where some computer guided lathe makes the process idiot proof.
 

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Even if I thought turning rotors was an acceptable (or good) idea, I have no faith that the people at the chain stores know enough about machining to get reliable results. It's not a "set and forget" process where some computer guided lathe makes the process idiot proof.
I did type and then delete a statement about that. I've been to the machine with the clerk and seen the results. I've done it twice ever and it was for tiny cars near the end of their lives. The surface wasn't pretty but it did the job, and at $16 a car (drums) I didn't complain but I never went back.
 
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