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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 EX-L NAV-RES. A week ago the left slider door lock and rear wiper started intermittently not working--either they both work or they both don't work. I suspect the MICU-Rear Junction Box, since it controls both the left slider locks and rear wiper (the MICU-Rear Junction Box is about $100 from the online Honda dealers, and is fairly easy to replace).

I have the Odyssey 2005-2006 factory service manual. The correct way to troubleshoot my door lock/wiper problem is to retrieve any B-CAN DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) that may have set (B-CAN = Body Controller Area Network). Honda techs use their fancy HDS (Honda Diagnostic System) to retrieve the DTCs, but the service manual also shows an alternative method. This method requires a 2-pin service connector (Honda part # 07PAZ-001010A) to be plugged into a service socket in the driver's under-dash fuse box. Any B-CAN DTCs will then be displayed in the odometer display. Each DTC has its own troubleshooting section in the service manual; troubleshooting usually requires only a multimeter.

(I don't believe this DTC retrieval method works for engine and emissions DTCs codes...those codes are on Honda's F-CAN network, "Fast Area Controller Network," and can be retrieved using an OBD-II code reader plugged into the OBD-II data connector under the dash. On the other hand, I don't believe an OBD-II code reader will read Honda's B-CAN DTCs.)

Problem is, I'm having a hard time finding the 07PAZ-001010A service connector. My local dealer and most of the online dealers claim the connector is no longer available. Based on a picture of the connector in the service manual, it looks to be no more than a simple jumper. If that was the case, I'd make my own jumper (paper clip, etc.). But I don't know for sure that it is just a simple jumper--maybe it contains other components. I don't want to experiment with a paper clip and fry something.

Does anybody know for sure that the 07PAZ-001010A service connector is just a simple jumper?

Or has anybody successfully retrieved B-CAN DTCs by jumping the terminals in the fuse box service socket instead of using 07PAZ-001010A?
 

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Yes the Honda jumper tool is just a plain jumper. Can't sy thy I have used it for retrieving body codes but I am pretty sure you need a Honda scan tool (HDS).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I made a mistake with the service connector part number...the 05/06 Odyssey requires 07WAZ-001010A, not 07PAZ-001010A. The size and pin spacing is different. 07PAZ-001010A is for Civic and maybe others. 07PAZ-001010A is still available from a couple online dealers, but I have not been able to find 07WAZ-001010A...everyone says Honda has discontinued it.

I went ahead and jumped the terminals, and the odometer displayed the first of about 18 B-CAN codes (b1012, b1055, etc.). Pressing the trip reset button cycles through the codes. Holding down the button clears the codes.
 

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Can you share details on how this is done? I have some of the tech manual, but not that part... :-/

Nicolas
 

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Discussion Starter #5
These scans are from page 22-128 of the 2005-2006 Odyssey service manual. 2007 is probably the same, but no guarantees.

The service connector in the fuse box has two flat pin terminals. The pins accept 1/8" female push-on terminals. Be careful, the pins are flimsy--I loosened up the push-on terminal a little so they slid onto the pins easier. I wired the push-on terminals to a switch so I could start and stop the test easily.

Retrieving B-CAN codes won't do much good unless you have the factory service manual to show how to trouble-shoot the codes. The 2007 Odyssey service manual is $56.50 plus shipping from helminc.com.
 

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Thanks, this is very useful information. I'm trying to diagnose an intermittent problem with my 2005 Odyssey power sliding doors. The SLIDE DOOR light on the dash isn't much help. I've taken it to the dealership, but they just recommended replacing both slide door control units for around $900 total. They didn't really know what was wrong, just wanted me to throw money at the problem. I borrowed a friend's OBD2 scanner, but apparently the B-CAN errors don't show up on normal OBD2. You have to have the Honda Diagnostic System code reader. I'm going to try this trick and see if I can figure out the actual Device Trouble Code.
 

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I got my codes by shoving a crumpled up piece of aluminum foil in that test port.
b1055
b1056
b1057
b1080

Now I just need to find a Service Manual to figure out what those mean. The manual I bought on CD is missing that section.
 

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I got my codes by shoving a crumpled up piece of aluminum foil in that test port.
b1055
b1056
b1057
b1080

Now I just need to find a Service Manual to figure out what those mean. The manual I bought on CD is missing that section.
DTC B1055: Relay Control Module Lost Communication with MICU
DTC B1056: Relay Control Module Lost Communication with MICU (Alarm message)
DTC B1057: Relay Control Module Lost Communication with MICU (Door switch message)
DTC B1080: Power Supply Circuit (IG1 Line) Input Error for Relay Control Module and MICU
 

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I am having the same problem, codes 1012 and 2007 won't go away, according to the manual you have to do the REAR MICU junction box test, the tests look simple enough, but you have to take some interior panels apart to get at it.

Has anyone figured what their problem is/was?
 

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These scans are from page 22-128 of the 2005-2006 Odyssey service manual. 2007 is probably the same, but no guarantees.

The service connector in the fuse box has two flat pin terminals. The pins accept 1/8" female push-on terminals. Be careful, the pins are flimsy--I loosened up the push-on terminal a little so they slid onto the pins easier. I wired the push-on terminals to a switch so I could start and stop the test easily.

Retrieving B-CAN codes won't do much good unless you have the factory service manual to show how to trouble-shoot the codes. The 2007 Odyssey service manual is $56.50 plus shipping from helminc.com.
The fusebox on my 2005 looks a bit different than your picture. Is the service connector the blue connector that I've circled in red here:

WP_20150829_16_21_24_Pro-2.jpg
 

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I didn't know about this either. It looks like the socket is under the kickpanel above the fusebox on the far left side of the top row of relays. You'll have to pull the kickpanel to see it. That blue plug that is circled is not it.
 

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Ya,, I have that panel off. Unfortunately, the connectors there look nothing at all like the 07-09 service manual I have (it was free). thanks for letting me know the blue plug is not it, that coulda been ugly LOL.
I'll dig into it more now that I know you can jump the plug to get the codes. I was pulling plugs in the rain and got frustrated and quit. Thanks for the info.... to be continued...
 

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Ya,, I have that panel off. Unfortunately, the connectors there look nothing at all like the 07-09 service manual I have (it was free). thanks for letting me know the blue plug is not it, that coulda been ugly LOL.
I'll dig into it more now that I know you can jump the plug to get the codes. I was pulling plugs in the rain and got frustrated and quit. Thanks for the info.... to be continued...
Yeah, I have the 08 service manual (OEM hard copy version) and it shows it as #10 on page 22-87. It shows how to use it on page 22-144.

What exactly are you trying to diagnose?
 

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Yeah, I have the 08 service manual (OEM hard copy version) and it shows it as #10 on page 22-87. It shows how to use it on page 22-144.

What exactly are you trying to diagnose?
Ok, boy are you going to be sorry you asked that question LOL!

First, I snapped a pic and marked the MCIC port hopefully will help someone else in the future....
I made alligator clips on a 6" wire and jumped it that way, so I finally got some codes to play with.

MCIC-Socket.jpg


I don't know if I should start a new thread, I think I will, it will be extensive. It's related to, what else, the "power" sliding doors.
I'll fire up a new post here shortly, thank you
 

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Can somebody with a factory service manual help me with my codes...

DTC B1825
DTC B1826

I'm troubleshooting a driverside sliding door lock that is not working electronically. I have to manually lock and unlock it. The power door works as it should. All other power locks work correctly, too. I tried replacing the actuator motor and it did not resolve the problem.

Thanks!
 

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B1825: Power seat slide motor pulse error
B1826: Power seat front up-down motor pulse error

So, the left side sliding door lock doesn't work when you use the master switch. Does it lock/unlock when you use any of the other door lock switches on the other doors?

Have you checked to see if the connector going to the actuator is getting the 12 volts? For lock/unlock it simply switches polarity so you can just use a test light to see if it's getting power when locking and unlocking.
 

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Thanks, John. No, it does not work with any other switch or door locks on other doors, nor the key fob. I will pull the panel off tomorrow and check the voltage at the connector. Occasionally, when I hit the master switch, the lock will move slighty like it wants to go, but doesn't.
 

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B1825: Power seat slide motor pulse error
B1826: Power seat front up-down motor pulse error

So, the left side sliding door lock doesn't work when you use the master switch. Does it lock/unlock when you use any of the other door lock switches on the other doors?

Have you checked to see if the connector going to the actuator is getting the 12 volts? For lock/unlock it simply switches polarity so you can just use a test light to see if it's getting power when locking and unlocking.
Just for follow up....I finally got this lock sorted out. Last week I finally got around to pulling the door panel off again and doing some trouble shooting. When I peeled back the plastic I immediately realized that I had previously replaced the wrong actuator.

I previously replaced the power door lock actuator (part#72663-SHJ-A21). I was admittedly in a hurry and taking short cuts.

I bought the correct part (#72663-SHJ-A11) the next day. I actually bought an aftermarket part from Autozone (Duralast) for $50. The dealership wanted $100 and didn't even have it in stock.

Now to sort out a TPMS issue!
 

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Glad it's sorted. I don't recommend aftermarket electrical parts. Most of them are junk, some even right out of the box, and don't usually last very long. If you have any future issues with that door that aftermarket part is immediately suspect.
 
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