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Discussion Starter #1
When shopping for a Muzzler, I wanted one that would allow me to easily enable and disable primarily for service. If I take the Van into the shop I would be able to hit a switch and disable the Muzzle (just in case). Maybe this doesn’t make a difference, not sure but I didn’t want to take the chance and for a few dollars more S-VCM offers this as an option in their Custom offering (I paid $125 shipped).

I ordered an S-VCM Custom from RQ, took about 1.5 weeks to get ordered, build checked out and shipped down from Canada to Central Ohio, USA. There are variations in the fuses and fuse boxes, when ordered we confirmed that my ’16 EX-L/RES has the lower profile mid-sized fuses so that’s the connector that was included with the S-VCM.

The key thing here is that the Custom requires you to run a wire through the firewall, the control box (w/ switch) is housed inside the vehicle. There’s a firewall plug/gasket thingie on the driver’s side of the vehicle, this is where I ran the wire through.

NOTE: The vehicle is OFF during this process! And the cooler the better as you’re working over and on top of the engine while running wires (ask me how I learned this!?!). Also take a photo or note which wires go where before pulling the S-VCM apart (I think it was black back to black and grey to grey but check your specific kit before unplugging!).

The “easy” way to install the Custom would be to just pop the wiring bundle firewall plug loose and snake the wire say though the top of that thing and then seal it up once you have the measurements/distances for the wiring correct, etc. A little wire over the top, some RTV to seal it and move on, like a 10-minute job.

However, I’m a hard head, so I chose to run the S-VCM wire through the protective bundle as if it were a factory wire, this was a major pain in the a$$. If you don’t have small hands and a lot of patience (or some magic trick up your sleeves that I was unable to ascertain!), then just do the easy method. It took me quite a while to get the wiring bundle holder opened and then to carefully cut into the electrical tape on each side of the rubber firewall gasket/plug. Once it was loose, from inside the van I scrunched down the gasket to make it easier to work with. From the engine bay I had already run the S-VCM wire to the Firewall hole, so now with the gasket and wire inside the cabin I fought and fought to work the S-VCM wire into the gasket/plug from the Firewall side, through to the cabin side. Once you get it into the very tight gasket/plug from the firewall side it’s easy to pull through (but do so gently). Then measure your distances from what you’ll need to leave in the engine bay; I brought all the excess line from the engine bay into the cabin.

Back at the engine, well you’ve popped the black plastic cover off the top of the engine, the ECT switch is right in front of you. I used a zip time to loosely hold the S-VCM bundle where I wanted it, ran the wire under the air intake housing (zip ties here and there) and then ran the S-VCM wire along with the whole bundle into the plastic holder that’s mounted in front of the firewall plug. Everything is still LOOSE at this time mind you…

Inside the car you need to jump the S-VCM into the fuse box to a Key On ONLY fuse. I chose #13 which was an accessory. I plugged the Custom’s controller fuse carrier/jumper into 13, and the wires you ran from the engine bay were clipped back onto the Custom as well (as noted earlier make you got the right one’s plugged in!).

Back at the engine bay, remove the ECT clip from the engine/radiator output thingie, plug it into the S-VCM female to the clip you just pulled. Make sure it’s snapped together (gently!). Then plug in the S-VCM Male to the ECT on the engine/radiator output. RQ stated in his directions to me that this is the order you should follow!!!

With everything still kinda loose, I turned on power on in the vehicle but did not start it. No beeping, no errors, okay. Might be an unnecessary step but… I then checked wire length’s inside the engine bay, tightened up the zip ties and plugged in the firewall plug (electrical tape on each side again to help seal it). I then with the S-VCM wire inside I snapped the hard plastic wiring bundle carrier back together. Engine Bay wiring done.

Meanwhile, back inside the cabin… The Custom box comes with Velcro, I mounted it under the dash, near (but not BLOCKING) the fuse box. From the driver’s seat you can’t see it but I know where it is. I then I gathered up the extra S-VCM wiring and zip tied it together, and then zip tied that new bundle up and out of the way of everything. I think zip tied the power wire from the Custom control box out of the way of the brake pedal and made sure nothing was dangling, hanging, etc.

The Muzzle is ON when the switch is pushed in.

I made sure all my tools, tape and such were out of the engine bay and cabin, I rechecked the positioning of everything once again, insured the S-VCM was on and fired up the van. I drove it about 3-4 miles and did everything I could to TRY and get it into ECO mode, no dice. My wife is driving the kids all over today and I expect her to report nothing, which is perfect. This should be seamless and I expect it is…

Sorry for the lengthy write-up but I felt I owed it to the community who have already proved to be an invaluable resource as maybe it will help another Rookie!

For out Odyssey, up next are the Front brakes and then a 4454 Trucool transmission cooler and new OEM transmission filter to follow probably next month.

I’ll report back gas mileage and general observations in the near future on the S-VCM.

Thanks again to the community!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Firewall plug from cabin side

151316


Firewall plug and wiring carrier from Engine Bay (note I've already popped it loose, small flat blade screw driver, small hands and patience!):

151317
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Custom Installed and mounted:

151318


Cruddy pic but you can see the extra S-VCM wiring bundled up and zip tied up and out of the way:

151319
 

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Discussion Starter #5
S-VCM jumpered in at the ECT:

151320


The S-VCM wire run along the positive of the battery then down under the airbox

151321


And up to the carrier:

151322


DONE!
 

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Nice job! Thanks for the write up and pictures.
 

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Yes clean install. I ran a trailer brake controller through that grommet as well. I used an awl to poke a new hole in the rubber section. Much easier than try to unbundle factory loom. I use the s-VCM as well but have not bothered with the switch. May do it in future but so far no need.


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Discussion Starter #8
Poking a hole; Pro Move! ;)

Yeah, if I'd known just how much of a hassle it was do un-bundle I would have done that more than likely. Really it burned an extra hour of my life, not the end of the world and I learned a bunch and it is more "factory" looking anyway.
 

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Great write-up but a little more research would have indicated that the VCMTunerII doesn't need to be removed for service. It has an accelerometer in it that detects the vehicle in motion and when stopped for two minutes or longer will send normal values to the PCM. I can do idle relearns, coolant flush/bleeds, and much more with the VCMTunerII installed. No disabling or removal necessary.
 

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Great write-up but a little more research would have indicated that the VCMTunerII doesn't need to be removed for service. It has an accelerometer in it that detects the vehicle in motion and when stopped for two minutes or longer will send normal values to the PCM. I can do idle relearns, coolant flush/bleeds, and much more with the VCMTunerII installed. No disabling or removal necessary.
VCMTuner II also has a lead that you could extend into the cabin and use a switch to ground it and turn VCM back on. I have found no need to do this however.
 

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Yes, I had done my research and was aware. Thanks!
I'm just curious, after your research, why did you go this direction?

I might be missing something, but it's a more complicated install (at least compared to the standard VCMTuner II install), costs the same as the VCMTuner II (with standard shipping within the US), and appears to be a less capable solution. As mentioned in my previous post there is also the ability to manually turn VCM on and off if so desired.
 

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I won't presume to speak for AndrewS816 but after seeing his installation pics, I think it's a good design.

By his own admission he made the installation more difficult than necessary which isn't the device's fault. But this design has the advantages of putting the control module inside the vehicle instead of under the hood and draws power from a switched source right at the fuse panel. The only thing that goes under the hood is a sealed cable that goes straight to ECT1. It's nice in that it looks even harder to spot as non-stock from under the hood and is probably even more robust than our underhood solutions, which really are already dead reliable.
 

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Thanks. I guess I could see where being harder to spot as non-stock might be something desirable for a vehicle still under warranty and taking it for service at the dealer.
 

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Purely coincidentally, I did something like this yesterday on my 2011 LX.

There's some weird stuff going on with the red charging light in the instrument panel, so I installed a digital voltage gauge so system voltage would always be displayed, to help with that diagnosis. BTW on that, we're getting that red light on even though voltage is always what it should be; and from searching on here, it is a rare, but not unheard of issue, with no solution reports yet.
https://www.odyclub.com/threads/battery-light-on-alternator-ok.354939/

Since I had my electrical tools out after doing that, I went ahead and wired in a bypass switch for my home-brewed VCM muzzler, which is a simple resistor. Many years ago, I spliced in (using spade connectors, which came apart for the first time yesterday - LOL) a 77 Ohm resistor at the ECT sensor.

So yesterday I spliced in a wire that shorts out that resistor, taking it back to the original state (wire vs. resistor). I ran that wire using a very similar method to the OP, except after wanting to do it right but being realistic (and lazy) when sizing up the difficulty, I taped the wires to a sharp screwdriver and poked it through the gasket, which was relatively easy. (y) to the OP for getting it done the right way.

So now I've got a very simple muzzler: a resistor that can be put in or out of the circuit by the flick of a switch, which is mounted next to the TCS button to the left of the steering column. And LOL, BTW, our LX is happily sooo stripped that the only thing that was not a filler plug in that whole little console was the TCS button.

I did a couple of tests, switching it back and forth, and I should be able to calibrate the effect on ECT temperature through as much range as the engine gets to. I can read the ECT temp through the OBDII port while switching back and forth between original vs. muzzled. Less easy will be to observe and accurately measure the movement of the gauge needle while doing this.

We've gone several years already with the resistor permanently installed there, never with a need or desire to switch it out. But since I was right there (installed the voltage gauge in the same little cluster), I put it in. Will see how much we actually use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey, been on the road for business. Before doing so I drove almost 300 miles in the Odyssey, a little start and stop at traffic lights, State roads, 60-63 mph a lot of the time but up to 70 mph and pulled 29.6 MPG with the S-VCM installed. Yeah, it's a winner.

Why did I go with the S-VCM Custom, I wanted the option to be able to turn it on and off was a designed/built in solution. I didn't want to buy something and have to modify it right away. As stated above, I made the install more complicated and unless your patient (or crazy!) I wouldn't recommend my approach. And if you do the easier install method passing the wire thru the top of or punch a hole in the firewall boot you've added maybe 15 minutes to a Muzzler install versus the other solutions.

Not only did the easy on/off attract me for service, but I thought "...hey, maybe on long trips in the flats I could reengage the VCM so we'll get better gas mileage." I have since learned there's no reason to do this, I "might" have lost 0.5 MPG using the S-VCM but 29.6 MPG on that trip blew me away. This is about 7.6 MPG better than we we're getting with our 2002 EX-L, that's HUGE!

Moral of the story, you probably don't need an on/off switch, install a standard Muzzler and enjoy! Would I do this all the same way again knowing this? Probably not...
 

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We just bought a 2016 EX-L with 30k miles on it. {Painted in beautiful deep scarlet pearl, she's been named Ruby. Our previous van (name Bessie, who is still for sale.. people say no-thank-you when told it has 301k miles on it) went its life without a muzzler for its 301k miles and still runs nicely. We had motor mounts replaced once and never an engine issue. Of course, being in Florida, we were either driving in stop/go 35-max mph traffic, or 78-80 on the highway, so the ECO light was rarely on. That may be why we never saw any extreme effects from the VCM. Our new one still has power train warranty left on it, so I am concerned that using a muzzler would void that warranty. Do I have a need to be concerned?
 

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@Greginfla - in a very narrow, strictly legalistic sense, yes. Honda does not officially approve of any VCM disable device. However from a practical standpoint, it will never be an issue because what you are really doing is making the engine's job easier. You're not going to have any problems that can be attributed to disabling VCM.

I first installed a VCM disable device on our van after about 8 months and 7500 miles of ownership. In other words, with gobs and gobs of warranty left. Our Ody has been in and out of the dealership service department a number of times with the device installed and no one breathed a word about it. Just go ahead and disable VCM - you have nothing to lose and lots to gain.
 

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I installed S-VCM today. Oh man, wish I’d done it a long time ago. I had the plugs pulled at 101K and that was all the evidence I needed. 3 showed carbon buildup and wet threads, the other three were clean and dry. Now I know exactly where all that oil went...I never had a check engine light, fouled plug, or engine mount problems, but I got sick and tired of filling the crank case, tired of the low rumble with VCM working, and tired of the transmission bucking when cylinders switched on and off. What a crappy system and sloppy engineering...
So, with S-VCM installed and after only a 20 mile test, the van feels a whole lot smoother...like it should have driven all along. I’m a fan of S-VCM, even if a late adopter. I hope at least that I saved our (paid for) van from a premature death.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Congrats and welcome to the club!

I really should pull the plugs on our ours just to check since it ran for 41k with the VCM engaging (before we bought it); but it runs fine, no unusual oil consumption so...

Enjoy all six cylinders! ;)
 
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