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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Ody EX-L/RES with about 30k on the odometer. I am replacing the front sway bar endlinks and the nuts seem seized. I am ready to cut the endlinks out with a saw. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong ??
 

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There should be a hex socket opening on the end link for you to hold the stud while you turn the nut off. I also have an air compressor and grinder at home and usually just cut the nuts off and put new ones on. (sorry for all the double entendre in that reply :D )
 

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Either:

1. Use a hex key to hold the bolt, but clean off the dirt from inside first otherwise the hex key may not be seated in properly.

2. Many sway bar endlinks have a "flat" part that allows a bicycle wrench to fit in. In my 1998 BMW 528i, the swaybar endlinks allow a 16-mm bicycle wrench to fit in. Here is a pic of the BMW, check your Ody to see if you have this "flat" part:


 

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Discussion Starter #4
I see the hex opening but it really a pain to work the nut out while holding the stud in place with the hex key. I guess I am not the only one having "hate" issues with these nuts. I am going to cut the nuts off and install new ones. Working the old nuts out and all just seems like too much trouble when all 4 nuts can be bought new for a few cents. Thanks a lot for the comments.
 

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What was wrong with the end links, were they seized up?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The problem itself was with the enlinks which were shot. They would make a "clanking" noise when I drove over irregularities in the road such as speed bumps and the like. I decided to replace the sway bar endlinks and bushings to resolve the problem. According to my local dealer, this is a common "maintenance" issue with 3rd gen Odys.
 

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1. Did you spray the nut with WD-40 etc.?

2. Also did you check if you have a flat part to "counter-hold" while you remove the nut?
 

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If you live in a rust area, it is normal. I experience the same problem with all my cars with the hex design link, no matter the make or model. You most likely will have to torch them off, or cut them off with a grinder, dremel, or any other cutting tool.
 

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itr0754 said:
2006 Ody EX-L/RES with about 30k on the odometer. I am replacing the front sway bar endlinks and the nuts seem seized. I am ready to cut the endlinks out with a saw. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong ??
Caveat: I haven't looked at the 2006, but on the 2004, there
were a couple of options. First, as others have mentioned,
there is a hex head, but both the left and right front hex head
stripped before I could get the bolts off. However, on the 2004,
on the other side of the sway bar hole, there was a place to
secure a wrench. Feel back there with your fingers (between
the rubber boot and the hole through the sway bar) and see
if there's a place to fit an open end wrench. If it's like the 2004,
you should be able to get a wrench on both sides of the sway
bar hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Installation is now complete and I only had to cut off one of the nuts. I should have done this fix long ago. The bushings weren't too badly worn but the endlinks were another story. I could easily move the studs on the old endlinks with my hands with no effort at all. The studs on the new endlinks are pretty much solid and would not budge at all by hand. The van is much sturdier while steering much like when it was new. I should have done this long ago. Other than that one seized nut, installation was simple. I snapped some pics along the way and I'll post a DIY later.
 

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So I am going through the process of changing end Links. Have successfully removed 3 out of 4, two through normal unscrewing and one through drilling but the 4th one is rusted badly. My efforts to drill and break it have failed as well. Going through the discussion, I guess the final Solution is sawing it off... going to get the tools but need advise from people who have used this method to select the right tools and approach...


Honda Odyssey 2008 Touring
 

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Dremel or harbor freight clones with cutoff diamond thin discs.
 

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So I am going through the process of changing end Links. Have successfully removed 3 out of 4, two through normal unscrewing and one through drilling but the 4th one is rusted badly. My efforts to drill and break it have failed as well. Going through the discussion, I guess the final Solution is sawing it off... going to get the tools but need advise from people who have used this method to select the right tools and approach...


Honda Odyssey 2008 Touring
Lower nut - Dremel or a hacksaw.

Upper nut - drilling on BOTH sides on the nut untill it breakes apart. That upper nut actually is much easier, takes about 10-15 min to remove.
 

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Lower nut - Dremel or a hacksaw.

Upper nut - drilling on BOTH sides on the nut untill it breakes apart. That upper nut actually is much easier, takes about 10-15 min to remove.
Going to try with Dremel as it's the lower nut and drilling already failed


Honda Odyssey 2008 Touring
 

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Going to try with Dremel as it's the lower nut and drilling already failed

Cover your face, these Dremel disks fall apart very often.. Or use a hacksaw. I like hacksaw better - a little bit of workout and no risk to bodyparts )
 

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Yes be careful with dremel bits.. they zing by quick.. harbor freight cutoff tool is worth the $10 :) oh.. and $5 for the disc.. haha.

I don't know why anyone actually was worried about using the old nut, every replacement swaybar came with a new nut for me, so I'd use new hardware regardless. If the nut didn't come off right away I'd just cut them off. (I live in a high salt area).
 

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Thanks everyone. I got a reciprocating saw and cut the the endlink from the knuckle side. Although, due to the cramped space, couldn't cut it off cleanly and the base of nut remained intact. had to drill holes and use hammer with a flat screw driver to break it off eventually...


Honda Odyssey 2008 Touring
 

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... every replacement swaybar came with a new nut for me, so I'd use new hardware regardless..
Just fyi, when buying OE Honda parts, the link does not come with nuts, you have to get them separately.
I highly recommend OE links over aftermarket, due to quality and little to no price difference of OE parts.
 

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I highly recommend OE links over aftermarket, due to quality and little to no price difference of OE parts.
I like Moog greaseable links over OEM.. That plastic ball casing in OEM link doesn't look/feel trustworthy. I was able to break it apart ( separate ball stud from casing ) by hand, and it wasnt worn out.
 
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