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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
changed my serp belt today at 65k mi. used 19mm socket and my torque wrench. man was that a beast. I had to push with both hands and all my weight to get it to move enough to get the new belt one and my son had to slide the belt over the PS pulley as both my hands were full. Maybe I did something the hard way? I have the service book. maybe a longer bar than my torque wrench?

anyway, to my question. of course I checked the pulleys for condition and movement while the belt was off. I noticed that the tensioner pulley while spun smooth, had some play in it. was wondering if this was normal? it didnt wobble, but rather I could move it up/down back/forth a little. not in/out. anyone know? the service manual did not mention this characteristic whether OK or not. thanks!
 

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I have never replaced one on a Honda. I have changed several on other Ford and GM cars and trucks. My experience is that they do not have play in them when new. The movement may have to do with the bolt that the idler bearing rides on. If needed, you should be able to buy one at any car parts store. The ones that I have changed simply unbolt... not a very difficult job, if you can get to it without too much trouble.

Hope this helps.
 

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Can you please explain to me (us) which way to push on that tensioner pulley nut? I see what to turn on, but can't figure out which way it moves.
Does the pulley pivot towards the front of the vehicle or pivot to the rear.
Any advice on how you got yours done would be great.
 

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It does not matter what car you own, to loosen a typical belt tensioner, always turn the wrench CLOCKWISE (same as tightening the bolt).

The engineers design it this way to avoid loosening the bolt during belt change.

Edit Sept. 23, 2010: For Honda: Counter-Clockwise (toward the rear of the car) to release the drive belt!
 

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cnn said:
It does not matter what car you own, to loosen a typical belt tensioner, always turn the wrench CLOCKWISE (same as tightening the bolt).

The engineers design it this way to avoid loosening the bolt during belt change.
Not sure I understand as the manual says to push the tensioner counter clockwise, pushing the wrench towards the rear of the car.

Nicolas
 

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Just press on the belt with one hand and put pressure in the wrench. You can feel in the belt which way tightens it and loosens it.
 

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I just looked it up.

J35A6 Engine
NOTE: This procedure requires the use of Belt tension release tool Snap-on YA9317 or equivalent belt tension release tool.

1. Move the auto-tensioner (A) with the belt tension release tool to relieve tension from the drive belt (B), then remove the drive belt.

2. Install the new belt in the reverse order of removal.


J35A7 Engine
1. Insert a hexagon socket wrench into the drive belt auto-tensioner (A), and slowly turn the wrench in the direction of the rotation arrow, then remove the drive belt (B).

NOTE: This is a hydraulic type auto-tensioner, so you must turn the wrench slowly.
 

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To get back on subject, I checked and the tech manual does not have information on checking the pulley itself for play... :(

Nicolas
 

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My '06 when I checked the belt and ran motor w/o it to check what was making the PS noise, I noticed also a bit of play in the tensioner. So I bought a new one at parts store and installed. The new one has a lot less play in it, but it did not cure my noise, I think that's my PS pump that just came in the mail from Advance yesterday.

RE: removal - my '06 the AC lines run right through the darn way where the tools will go for taking tension off my A7 engine, PITA. It is a bit of effort to get it to compress but steady pressure does it, and then you can easilly take belt from PS pump and release tension.

Replacing the tensioner is like 2-3 bolts to remove the bracket its held on with if my memory serves, and they are not very hard to do after you get the belt off.

The dust cover did not fit but directions said it was not needed with a sealed bearing.

Hard to say if this will cause you trouble but I also was concerned about the slop so I fixed it. But I kept the OEM one as I'm a packrat and it ain't broke yet....
 

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Good News re Serpentine Belt Tool!

Good news for Shade Tree Mechanic. I just tried it out on my car using what I have at home and it worked!!!

All you need are:

* Off-set 14-mm and 15-mm wrench combo with one end 14-mm (for the tensioner) and the other end 15-mm (for the 1/2" breaker bar). I have had this Craftsman wrench from Sears for a long time (maybe 5 years).

* 1/2" breaker bar because it allows you to swivel it to clear the AC Hose. If you use the standard 1/2" ratchet, it is probably very difficult to fit in here (I have not tried with ratchet yet).

Step 1: Study the Belt Layout of the 3rd Generation Ody (2005-2009).
- Note that the 14-mm bolt on the tensioner is attached to a nut behind the tensioner. This bolt is #7 in the diagram below and I believe it is left-hand thread!
Tensioner PN is 31170-RCA-A03, Part #2 in the diagram below:



- Rotate the 14-mm bolt counter-clockwise to release belt tension!
 

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Step 2: This is the setup:

- The 14-mm end goes to the tensioner bolt and the 15-mm fits perfectly into the square end of the 1/2" breaker bar.

- These 2 tools form an angle of approx. 90 degrees or so.
 

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Step 3:

- Using your left hand to guide the 14-mm end of the wrench on the tensioner bolt in such a way that the wrench lays almost horizontal as shown.

- The 15-mm end rests against the body as shown. Move the electrical wiring a bit sideway to clear the way.
 

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Step 4: Now engage the 1/2" breaker bar EXACTLY as shown, with the square end pointing toward the fender.

- Tip: Before you rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise, reach in with the L hand again to be sure the 14-mm end of the wrench is snugly engaged, otherwise the wrench can slip off the bolt and round it off! Once you are comfortable with the setup, rotate counter-clockwise while watching to be sure you don't damage AC lines/hoses and slip the belt off the PS Pulley and that is it!

PS: If your drive belt is bad, which is around 90-100K, time to think about TIMING BELT job too!!!
 

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Today I used a 1/2" breaker bar and 19mm on the tensioner knuckle thing, and b/c it was so darn stiff I put a 23mm combination wrench's box end through the end of the breaker bar and then I could covert the "push" action to a "pull up" action which was a lot easier on the polished concrete floor I was working on. My problem is the dang belt seems to have a mind of its own and requires a lot of TLC to keep it on the pulleys, more so than any other car I've wrenched on....but it finally gave in.
 

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Dirkdaddy said:
Today I used a 1/2" breaker bar and 19mm on the tensioner knuckle thing...
I thought it is 14-mm bolt, not 19-mm? At least it is 14-mm in my 2007 Odyssey.
 

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If yer taking off the pulley it could be a 14, but the cast-lug thing is a 19 on the EX A7 engine. A breaker bar and cheater pipe works well, or the aforementioned large combo wrench... Now what to do about that noise....Dad says I should just let it go and get worse, but it will drive me nuts!
 

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If yer taking off the pulley it could be a 14, but the cast-lug thing is a 19 on the EX A7 engine. A breaker bar and cheater pipe works well, or the aforementioned large combo wrench... Now what to do about that noise....Dad says I should just let it go and get worse, but it will drive me nuts!
holy crap I got it....that 19mm bolt on the pulley is what release it and lets it slide in...damn.
 
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