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I've searched the forums, but none of the questions relates to my issue. I have an '03. The belt started squealing, and also making a slight ticking noise, much like a stuck lifter in an older car. Noticed tensioner pulley kind of bobbing. Belt was obviously loose as I could turn the alternator pulley by hand. I bought a new hydarulic belt tensioner and a new belt. Here's the odd part, with the new tensioner in place with the new belt (which laid on top of old part is same length, belt and tensioner), the belt was now LOOSER than the old unit. I've worked at an auto parts house for 20 years, and have never seen such a thing. I had to resort to a belt that is .300 inches shorter than the recommended belt. Any ideas? My listing for the "correct" belt is 45.8 inches long, what I ended up using was a 45.5 inch belt. I still have a little squeal at start up if AC compressor is engaged....that could be age on the compressor as it has about 197k on the van. I even looked at the harmonic balancer, and other than stress cracks on the rubber ring, it doesn't appear to "wobble" as if it were going to separate. Compressor pulley freewheels as it should and alternator bearings seem fine. Sorry for being longwinded, but I wanted to post as much info as I could. Thanks for any help. :)
 

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That's strange, I would think that it's not looped quite right. When putting the belt on you really have to turn the tensioner quite a bit with a breaker bar or long wrench to get the belt to slip on. There's quite a bit of torque on it.

This video shows one similar.
 

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Just ran into a loose belt scenario myself. My old belt came off and wouldn't stay back on. So I bought a new tensioner and belt. However same issue, belt was too loose. I fought this thing and scratched my head for 2 hours trying to figure it out.

Turns out my alternator bracket had a crack in it. Which caused the alternator pulley to move forward about 1/4" or so. I had my honda tech look at it and he says in all his years he's never seen such a thing happen. He welded it back together but it was very rare and odd. But, that could be one other possible scenario.
 

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This video shows one similar.
I don't know why this guy in the video had to take the front wheel out to change the serpentine belt. I did not take the right passenger front wheel off. You can easily take it out and put the new one on without having to do a lot of work.
 

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I don't know why this guy in the video had to take the front wheel out to change the serpentine belt. I did not take the right passenger front wheel off. You can easily take it out and put the new one on without having to do a lot of work.
Because he did it on a four cylinder K24 and those are miserable tight to do. Ours has lots of room to reach down and loop it properly.
 

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If you are going to replace the tensioner, you will need to take off the front wheel and move the splash guard out of the way as shown in the video. You will need a 12 mm and 17 mm socket with breaker bar to loosen the tensioner bolts easily. Once you have the belt off be sure to spray the tensioner bolts carefully with penetrating oil. If you know what you are doing, and have the right tools (and don't have any problems), you can replace the tensioner and belt in approximately 1 hour.

I went with a Dayco 89328 tensionr from Rock Auto. One mistake I made was that I bought a separate idle pulley, which isn't necessary as the tensioner from Dayco already comes with one. I mistakenly thought that the set-up had two pulleys, which isn't the case.
 

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To the OP, did the ticking noise and squealing stop after changing the belt. I have the same noises....sounds like a stuck lifter as you described.
 
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