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Duralast battery = Throw it away lol
Toss the intake too, i'm not impressed by the 3 clamps right after the filter, one of those leaked or the MAF was loose and leaking air.
Bad intake filter placement, it'll garner more air mass but the filter placement will also lead to hotter IAT
 

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Duralast battery = Throw it away lol
Toss the intake too, i'm not impressed by the 3 clamps right after the filter, one of those leaked or the MAF was loose and leaking air.
Bad intake filter placement, it'll garner more air mass but the filter placement will also lead to hotter IAT
No I'm not going to throw away the Duralast battery...I get a free new one every year caz it fails LOL I got 2 new FREE battery replacements so far.

Well, it didn't work out for me, but how did the OP drive with his intake for 30k miles?? Like I said before, the OEM airbox mod is much better than installing one of these, just do some chopping and you get MORE noise than the takeda lol or just do this if you don't want to: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/277713-diy-free-intake-mod.html
 

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Just my $.02 on the Takeda Intake... I had one in my 2010 Acura TL and I decided to test out the theory of if it really would result in higher Intake Air Temperatures or not. Here was my conclusion in a nutshell.

Outside Air Temperature that day: 50 degrees (roughly sea level too)
Ran the car for 10 minutes, so it was good and warmed up
Used a PLX Wireless OBD2 Tool
Used the REV app on a iPad (this app is discontinued)
Air temperatures while at a stop: 104 degrees
Air temperatures at any speed above 10mph: 54 degrees

So in conclusion, as long as the vehicle was in motion above 10 mph, there was sufficient enough air flow in the engine bay to not allow stagnant hot air to affect the IATs. A difference of 4 degrees is pretty negligible. Of note: I did not test the IATs with a stock intake
 
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No I'm not going to throw away the Duralast battery...I get a free new one every year caz it fails LOL I got 2 new FREE battery replacements so far.

Well, it didn't work out for me, but how did the OP drive with his intake for 30k miles?? Like I said before, the OEM airbox mod is much better than installing one of these, just do some chopping and you get MORE noise than the takeda lol or just do this if you don't want to: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/277713-diy-free-intake-mod.html
2 replacements in 2 years = crap batteries.
NOTE: I still have not yet had to replace the new fresh battery Honda installed in 2013 which was 3 years and 2 months ago today. lol
Installer put intake in properly the first time, you have an install error going on
Very cool. I just bought a 2016 Odyssey. What would be the best fitting intake?
There is no intake specifically for the van, you can adapt some with some luck but most won't work

Did you read or look at this thread?
Probably didn't lol
 

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Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part
i Have had a 3inch intake tube with an HKS super power flo intake on mine for over 2 years. I have a 06 EXL with 215k miles. No check engine lights. does its job nice sound I get great gas mileage.. no complaints. I get about 450 miles per tank.. give or take..
 

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Problem is the MAF sensors on the 07+ odys, you need to get the correct intake for the MAF or else it will turn on the CEL. Well...there is no correct intake system out there yet.

The 06 and lower models are flexible, bolt basically anything up to it and it will run fine lol.
 

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Problem is the MAF sensors on the 07+ odys, you need to get the correct intake for the MAF or else it will turn on the CEL. Well...there is no correct intake system out there yet.

The 06 and lower models are flexible, bolt basically anything up to it and it will run fine lol.
IF you have access to Ktuner an intake can be used =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Just a heads up for any 3rd gen owners that wanted to try this.


So I decided that I'm gonna try out the takeda intake on my 2010....and......it doesn't work. The second time I started it up after the idle relearn, it was just stumbling and stalling (Yes I checked it for leaks!) It wont fit properly either, it was resting on the ABS lines and was just flopping around.


Honestly, I'll suggest everyone that wants to hear their vtec to just do TSM_Pikachu's OEM airbox mod. Its even louder than the takeda type intakes. I didn't have any problems with his mod for 30k miles.

That sucks. I put it on my '13 Ody when it was around 15k miles and removed it when I traded it in around 47k. I also have been using it on my '16 Ody for about 10k miles now. Never got a CEL or anything. I still wouldn't recommend buying the intake for the Ody, not work the money. I just used it because it was laying around and I don't like to modify my OEM parts.


Very cool. I just bought a 2016 Odyssey. What would be the best fitting intake?

The one I used was a Takeda for a 2011 Accord part# TR-1007B. I did have to modify it slightly but I was able to bolt it to the van so it didn't flop around. It is currently like $275 though. Totally not worth the money. I'd recommend modifying the stock intake as others have done.


Problem is the MAF sensors on the 07+ odys, you need to get the correct intake for the MAF or else it will turn on the CEL. Well...there is no correct intake system out there yet.

The MAF fits perfectly in the intake for mine. There isn't much of a difference between the intakes on the J35Z2 (2011 accord it was made for) and the J35Z8 (the one in both my 13 and 16 Ody) I assume that's why I've had 40k miles collectively between them and no issues.


IF you have access to Ktuner an intake can be used =)

That would be amazing. Might change the intake to something that is more performance oriented and do a few bolt ons (PCDs, etc) if tuning becomes available for the 11-17 Ody.
 

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That sucks. I put it on my '13 Ody when it was around 15k miles and removed it when I traded it in around 47k. I also have been using it on my '16 Ody for about 10k miles now. Never got a CEL or anything. I still wouldn't recommend buying the intake for the Ody, not work the money. I just used it because it was laying around and I don't like to modify my OEM parts.





The one I used was a Takeda for a 2011 Accord part# TR-1007B. I did have to modify it slightly but I was able to bolt it to the van so it didn't flop around. It is currently like $275 though. Totally not worth the money. I'd recommend modifying the stock intake as others have done.





The MAF fits perfectly in the intake for mine. There isn't much of a difference between the intakes on the J35Z2 (2011 accord it was made for) and the J35Z8 (the one in both my 13 and 16 Ody) I assume that's why I've had 40k miles collectively between them and no issues.





That would be amazing. Might change the intake to something that is more performance oriented and do a few bolt ons (PCDs, etc) if tuning becomes available for the 11-17 Ody.
I had an intake laying around that I chopped up and installed on my '16 Ody. The MAF sensor bolted right up and everything fit nice but within 30min of driving it the CEL came on and after a few days the car started shifting hard. I had a rich condition fault in mine. So I took it off and erased faults and drives like a dream again. It's was fun to turn heads while it lasted lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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For the 2011+ vans, don't bother messing with the intake, its already a CAI from factory and the stock sound is good enough. I was surprised the 2011+ has a small resenator, the 2005-2010 has the jungle gym resonator.
 
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