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Discussion Starter #1
Just finished replacing the timing belt and the 2 bent valves all that caused. While putting the throttle body back on my ratchet came back and tapped the positive battery post while putting the top left throttle body nut on. One of those times when you forgot you had the negative terminal back on.

Well, I didn't think anything of it but now when I try to start the car it just turns over and doesnt fire. Computer is throwing P2176 codes which has to do with the throttle motor. OBD tool reads 0% throttle position when its trying to start so it seems like I fried something. I couldn't find a specific fuse for the circuit but did a quick glance with a light at all the fuse panels and didn't see anything blown.

Should I just go to the junk yard tomorrow and pull a new throttle body?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well I held the throttle butterfly open a bit and tried to start it and that didn’t fix anything. Checked the throttle harness and a few of the pins have around 5 volts going to them. Took apart the throttle motor and it spins when I put 12 volts to it.

Weird
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well got junkyard throttle body. Now the throttle opens and sends a % signal but still no start. The testing continues.
 

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Keep us posted.
I have nothing to suggest or offer for you on this.
It is befuddling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, even though when the timing belt broke, and I didnt know what it was, I tested all the relays....I found a bad fuel pump relay. Had a spare so now I have fuel pressure, popped off a piece of the line and it sprayed. About to go back out and keep checking. Kinda makes me wonder if theres something I could have forgot to connect after I replaced the head and timing belt that would keep it from starting. I have RPM signal so I assume the crank position sensor is working.
 

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You have fuel pressure, but are the injectors firing?

Give it a shot of starting fluid and see if the engine fires on that.

Also, do you have spark?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You have fuel pressure, but are the injectors firing?

Give it a shot of starting fluid and see if the engine fires on that.

Also, do you have spark?
No spark, no fuel pulses as the plugs are dry. Tried starting fluid and still nothing. Well I did that before checking the ignition.

The real problem is this is after I broke a timing belt due to a mis made tensioner. So while the throttle body thing definitely seemed like it was from me shorting it out, the no start could be from something I forgot to hook up when I had the cylinder head off replacing valves. It seems odd that I don't have any codes but that it is choosing to not start.

If there was an ECU or module issue would there be a code? Les assume I fried the ECU, is it possible that there would be no other symptoms other than a no spark/injector issue.

Another train of thought is that after I broke the belt and we were testing why it stopped.(we didn't think the belt had broke). We were turning it over with the same symptoms. No fire, no spark and no codes. I was getting an RPM signal so what it seemed was happening was the engine was reading no rotation from the cams and was not initiating fuel/spark. I know the cam position sensor is plugged in currently but perhaps the sensor crapped out and that's the issue? I still think there would be a code for that though.
 

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If there was an ECU or module issue would there be a code? Les assume I fried the ECU, is it possible that there would be no other symptoms other than a no spark/injector issue.
Yeah, that's definitely possible. The ECU is programmed to detect problems with the engine, but not within itself.

You have no codes. Did you conclude that by connecting an OBD reader, or going by the CEL? Just wondering if the ECU is getting power? Blown fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, that's definitely possible. The ECU is programmed to detect problems with the engine, but not within itself.

You have no codes. Did you conclude that by connecting an OBD reader, or going by the CEL? Just wondering if the ECU is getting power? Blown fuse?
Yea every fuse I can get to including the big ones you have to unscrew I checked with a volt meter for continuity. The OBD2 reader I have isnt fancy, just an Ancel BD310 which doesn't give me all the individual module tests I've seen the fancy ones have. Can't reset any calibration stuff but I can delete codes and see live sensor data.

When I turn the engine over I see manifold pressure, throttle position, o2 sensors, rpm etc. All that looks like it's getting a live signal. I'd assume if the ECU was messed up that it would mess up the OBD2 getting access to that data. Maybe not who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I found a matching serial ECU on ebay for 35 bucks to try out. I believe I have to swap 2 EPROMs out on the board to transfer over the key chip data. The only other thing I have to try is the cam position sensor I got from the junkyard today as a last ditch effort.
 

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I'd assume if the ECU was messed up that it would mess up the OBD2 getting access to that data.
Agree. OBD2 data comes from the ECU's memory.

Let us know what happens after the new ECU is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I swapped the cam sensor today and still no start. Also put a good volt meter on the coil pack wiring harness and verified it gets 12v when the ignition is on and that no firing signal is being sent to the other wire when cranking the engine. Seems like the ECU is choosing to not initiate a start. I'd check the fuel injectors as well but that takes a little bit longer to pull the manifold back off and it seems obvious that it's not sending an injector pulse.
 

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Also put a good volt meter on the coil pack wiring harness and verified it gets 12v when the ignition is on and that no firing signal is being sent to the other wire when cranking the engine.
A meter is good to test for 12V power, but you need a noid light to check for a firing signal.

A meter can't react fast enough to the very short voltage spike, so it would show nothing even if the coil is getting a normal pulse.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A meter is good to test for 12V power, but you need a noid light to check for a firing signal.

A meter can't react fast enough to the very short voltage spike, so it would show nothing even if the coil is getting a normal pulse.
I have a Klein MM700 which has a quick reaction bar on the bottom that's supposed to catch signals like that. At least that's what I've always been told to watch when testing things like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well turns out my ECU is too new to just swap the key code chips so it needs to actually be programmed. One video says that with the wrong key the car should start for a second and then stop and then theres other posts that say that the car shouldn't start at all so its hard to know if this is going to fix the no start problem.

Currently researching whether or not its worth paying someone or if theres a better OBD2 tool than what I have that would add my keys to the ECU
 

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Well turns out my ECU is too new to just swap the key code chips so it needs to actually be programmed. One video says that with the wrong key the car should start for a second and then stop and then theres other posts that say that the car shouldn't start at all so its hard to know if this is going to fix the no start problem.

Currently researching whether or not its worth paying someone or if theres a better OBD2 tool than what I have that would add my keys to the ECU
On some cars it starts and dies, but on the Ody, it won't start at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I had a guy come by with a $3K scan tool and he added my vin to the new ECU and the keys. Still won't start. He ran the codes and it didn't show anything else besides the ABS module codes, some SRS stuff and TPMS. Nothing that should be related to the car not starting.

I have a scan my buddy did with a tool better than mine from when I bought the vehicle, as well as the day after the timing belt broke and then from a few days ago. The only difference in the scans is in the ABS module. When I bought the car it had:
-26 Pulser and Sensor failure: Lateral Accelerometer Failure
-61 Power supply voltage failure information: Low or High Voltage
-62 Power supply voltage failure information: High Voltage
-84 ECU Failure information: Sensor Input Error

After the timing belt broke(before I shorted anything out), and currently I have in the ABS module:
-16 Wheel Speed Sensor circuit failure or signal rationality: Right signal rationality
-18 Wheel Speed Sensor circuit failure or signal rationality: Rear Left signal rationality
-26 Pulser and Sensor failure: Lateral Accelerometer Failure
-61 Power supply voltage failure information: Low or High Voltage
-62 Power supply voltage failure information: High Voltage
-83 ECU Failure information: PGM-FI Relation Failure
-84 ECU Failure information: Sensor Input Error
-104-1 Sensor failure information 2: Sensor Cluster Failure

I don't think any of these should cause the vehicle to not start. I'm about out of common sense options.
 

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so, you checked all the fuses?
I would look at - driver's side:
#2 - IG Coil
#4 - LAF
#18 - IG PCU
#19 - IG Fuel pump
#23 - IGP

Passenger side
#3 - DBW

Under hood - large fuse box:
#7 - If this blows, many things would blow, so this is probably ok.
#8 - FI ECU

Just to confirm....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea I've pulled all fuses and relays and done a continuity check as well as put 12v to the relays and made sure they operated.

A few minutes ago I think I might have been onto something. When I first got a code for the throttle body being blown there was also a coolant temp high code(P0118) but it went away. Well when I just checked the codes it showed up again. It appears I blew my VCM Tuner II and it sends a high temp signal,....which I believe could make the ECU not start the vehicle if I'm not mistaken. Well I quickly took it out and plugged the vehicle directly into the coolant sensor...but it still didnt start. I checked the temp signal with my OBD2 tool and it showed 20c the same as the air intake temp.

Only problem is this is all with my new ECU which I don't know for sure if it even works, so I swapped my old ECU in and now the immobilizer doesn't recognize my key.... It would seem that the tech adding my keys to the new ECU possibly reprogrammed my keys instead of them being "added" to the new ECU. Going to call him back tomorrow and see if the correct coolant temp and the previous ECU will start this thing. Fingers crossed.
 
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