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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys,
I bought my 2005 honda odyssey exl on dec 2009. well after I bought it i felt the "droaning" or the shuddering from the transmission which would be felt when the van is going at a constant speed from 50-80 km/h . sometimes the rev would drop to a mere 1000rpm and thats when its felt the most. Anyway I thought it was normal until last year when I found this site. well I figured like the other threads say its the torque converter, but wanted to see if the software update would fix it. So I finally went to the local honda dealer, the advisor told me there is no software update for this model and after doing a test drive and stuff they came back and told me its the torque converter. they also gave a repair estimate of $2300 including parts and labour. Now my questions are:
- is the torque converter issue different from the transmission problems the 2004 models and before faced?

-would it be fine if we kept driving it until it stops working and then get it repaired? I mean my parents are its daily driver and they dont feel nothing.

-Is the quoted price to fix the torque converter reasonable?

-And would changing the whole transmission oil make ANY difference?

any suggestion is welcome.

Thanks

edit:

I just checked the transmission oil level, I don't think its full :/
 

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Did you get any flashing lights on the instrument panel? Did the dealer give you any written record of the trouble codes displayed by the trans? The ATF should be light cherry red on a paper towel, and smell pungently "sweet" -- is it dark? Does the ATF smell burned?


You could, at a minimum, top off the ATF and drain and then change the ATF three times (i.e only about half the volume is drained at a time) driving around the block after each change in order to mix the new with the old fluid, but it sounds like the trans is on its death bead. If your parents continue to drive it and dog it all the way down, it will smoke and fail *without warning* at the worst possible time and place.

I would *RUN* -- not walk -- from the dealer. They will welcome you as a profit center and give you a half-a$$ rebuilt trans that will fail just outside of their stingy warranty -- and then they will attempt to sell you a second POS trans.

If you want to keep the ODY, then your best bet is a re manufactured trans from Gator or Jasper in the US of A or, if not available in Canada, any re manufactured trans other than from Honda. Goggle on "Odyssey Transmission Problems" or similar and see the nightmare that you are facing. Also, search on this forum as you will see the degree and extent of "The Horror."

Please keep us advised of your progress.

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I believe the '05 tranny is different than the '04 tranny so the problems are not the same. As far as the post above, I don't think you are looking at a rebuilt transmission, just the torque converter. Going with an aftermarket (Jasper or others) doesn't apply here.

I would have an indepent shop replace the torque converter. Shoud save some money over the dealer.
 

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Agree with DavidGSR. Sinbad might be confusing this thread with the legendary 2nd gen tranny woes.

OP, you might want to go through the very big shudder/judder thread and see if you can follow it. Some folks have managed to rid themselves of the judder by replacing the ATF with full synthetic ATF and others have had to get a new Torque Converter installed.
 

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How long until another class action suit is formed for the '05+ Odyssey Torque Converter problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the reponse guys, I went to my local autoshop that I am familier with, he told me it's better to change the torque converter after he test drove it, as he could literaly feel the torque converter going in and out rather than spend $150 on synthetic and still have the problem. also he showed me a new problem, engine oil leaking, told me that the seal between the engine or transmission is bad or something, so I guess we are gonna have to go with rebuilding the torque converter. another thing guys, would changing the engine oil to synthetic do it any harm? I don't think the engine burns any oil, I wanna switch to synthetic for the high oil change interval, my parents forget to change the oil sometimes and the car gets driven on normal petrocanda oil for like 4-5 months and the oil gets reallly black. by the way my ody is at 150k
 

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thanks for the response guys, I went to my local auto shop that I am familiar with, he told me it's better to change the torque converter after he test drove it, as he could literally feel the torque converter going in and out rather than spend $150 on synthetic and still have the problem. also he showed me a new problem, engine oil leaking, told me that the seal between the engine or transmission is bad or something, so I guess we are gonna have to go with rebuilding the torque converter. another thing guys, would changing the engine oil to synthetic do it any harm? I don't think the engine burns any oil, I wanna switch to synthetic for the high oil change interval, my parents forget to change the oil sometimes and the car gets driven on normal petrocanda oil for like 4-5 months and the oil gets really black. by the way my Ody is at 150k
Synthetic ATF costs about $10/quart and the transmission holds about 8 quarts. Rebuilding the torque converter will require all new ATF so this would be a good time to switch to synthetic ATF, which is considered beneficial to the Honda transmission, versus the Honda Z1.

As for engine oil, there will be no harm in changing to synthetic oil. In addition, it is false economy to go extended miles between oil changes if you want to keep the vehicle. For improved reliability and engine longevity most consider it good practice to change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. "You can pay me now, or ...." Otherwise, drive it like you stole it!

Finally, since your Ody has had infrequent oil changes, I would consider adding a can/bottle of fuel system cleaner such as Seafoam, BG44K, Red Line SI1, or Techron Fuel System Cleaner to a full tank of gas, and then use up most of the tank, just *prior* to your oil change. This will clean up the internals of your engine and maybe improve gas mileage and performance.
 

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Had the same problem with my 05. got quote for $1900.00 for new torque converter. Complained to Honda USA and got response that they will go 50/50 (goodwill) on the repair. Told them I have 3 hondas, all bought at the same dealership and that I have lost all confidence in Honda products since the AC compressor was just replaced in Oct. 2010. To make a long story short I paid $750.00 for the repair. I still think Honda knows this is a defect and refuses to recall and repair under warranty. Mine has 78K miles on it
 

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+1 on the rear mount.
sssmeee if you haven't shed the money yet I would suggest to check the rear mount, since the feeling is very similar to what you are explaining. And the fact that your mechanic felt it going in and out means that he does not know that at that speed the VCM kicks in and the feeling when it kicks in is a bit like gear shifting. He probably does not know that you have the VCM. So I would suggest you read the thread regarding the rear mount and how you can check if defective (which at 150000 km probably is). That will cost you about $500 - %600 to fix.
Again hope you did not go with the converter yet....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
+1 on the rear mount.
sssmeee if you haven't shed the money yet I would suggest to check the rear mount, since the feeling is very similar to what you are explaining. And the fact that your mechanic felt it going in and out means that he does not know that at that speed the VCM kicks in and the feeling when it kicks in is a bit like gear shifting. He probably does not know that you have the VCM. So I would suggest you read the thread regarding the rear mount and how you can check if defective (which at 150000 km probably is). That will cost you about $500 - %600 to fix.
Again hope you did not go with the converter yet....
Thanks for the info, we were planning to get it done at the end of the month, I will go see another local mechanic this weekend to get the mount checked. But still would the mount have anything to do with the droaning (around 50-80 km/h at only like 1000 rpm)?

thanks again
 

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It has lots to do with the droaning. Please read the thread to familiarize yourself with the issue, so you can even check it yourself. In brief when the rear or front (mostly the rear) goes bad, it buckles and then the frame and the engine bracket that the mount holds touch and you get metal on metal droan. It should be most noticeable when you see your eco (green) light come up, which I think starts at about 50 km/h. They made the mount so complex and expensive to take care of the excessive engine shake when the VCM switches off the 3 cylinders, but did not made it strong enough. I guess in your case it lasted long time - in mine about 30k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok so I FINALLY get the time to take the van to our local mechanic, he checked the rear engine mounts by pressing the break then revving the engine in both rear and drive mode. He then said that the mounts are good, when asked about visual inspection by lifting the van up, he said you cant, you have to remove some parts before you can see it. then he told me just drive till you get a engine checklight for the torque converter, then replace it.....so after that I was thinking about just changning the whole transmission fluid with synthetic and just let her drive...? any thoughts?
 

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changing your trans oil is good for the trans too so might as well change it out if you can. I had the shudder problem on our 05 too but as soon as i got 3 drain and refill, the car felt really different. I even drained and refilled every 30k miles.
 

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Did you have a look at the TSB? Had you printed it and brought it to your mechanic he would have seen how easy it is to check the rear mount. From the explanation he gave you, I deduct that he has no experience with the rear/front mounts on Honda's with VCM. I would suggest you to do the visual yourself or bring it to another mechanic. If it turns out to be the mount and you just drive it like that, eventually you will have to change the other mounts as well, because the vibration will damage them. So a $600 bill will jump to a $1800 bill.
Just think about it - the rear and front are very different from the 2 side ones and from any other car's engine mounts. They are put under extensive pressure when you see the green "ECO" light to come out. You mechanic did test the mounts, but his test targeted regular mounts, not the Honda VCM type of mounts. They cost about $400-$500 dollars - 5 times more than the regular mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
From the explanation he gave you, I deduct that he has no experience with the rear/front mounts on Honda's with VCM. I would suggest you to do the visual yourself or bring it to another mechanic.

You mechanic did test the mounts, but his test targeted regular mounts, not the Honda VCM type of mounts.
THANKS!! that is EXACTLY what I was thinking!.. but then thought i was wrong... anyway I will print out the tsb and show it to him.

Thanks again
 

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Sooo...??? What happened? :) I am experiencing the same symptoms in my 2005 Odyssey, and want to know what I'm up against. I've already ordered replacement front and rear engine mounts. I'm hoping it's not a torque converter/trany issue!
 

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We had same trouble with our 2007. Took it into Honda. They did not see any signs of burnt fluid, but did a drain/refill. Did a software update and it never did again.
 

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Sooo...??? What happened? :) I am experiencing the same symptoms in my 2005 Odyssey, and want to know what I'm up against. I've already ordered replacement front and rear engine mounts. I'm hoping it's not a torque converter/trany issue!
You probably want to start a new thread and accurately describe the symptoms and what parts were replaced so far. This is an old thread and some members may just not read these older threads at all.
 
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