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Discussion Starter #1
First, we just picked up the van yesterday and all was well.

We just got back from Target and now the "Slide Door" light is on. We went to breakfast and then Target and both power doors were working as they should. We left the store and opened the doors with the fob. After getting the kids straped in, the driver's door closed automatically. My wife closed the passenger's side door and it started to close automatically but it didn't look like it latched shut completely and the light went on. I tried using the button on the dash and it didn't work and then I tried the fob and it didn't work. I also turned the car off and restarted it hoping what ever problem was occuring would be corrected by having everything reset itself and unfortunately it didn't. According to the manual I should turn the main switch to "OFF" and take it in. Before I take it in does anyone have any suggestions on how I might get it working again?
 
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I assume you've checked around to make sure the door isn't trying to close on something? (belt, jacket, etc) There have been a couple threads about sliders being out of alignment (ours was slightly, but not enough to interfere with operation). If there's nothing in the way you'll probably want the dealer to check that your alignment is ok.

--> Andy
 

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Try removing the appropriate fuse (and then replacing). If you can't figure out which fuse then a more drastic approach would be to disconnect the battery's positive terminal for a few minutes and reconnect (you will then have to reset your radio stations, clock etc - also I believe there may be a stereo security code that you will need to enter). Obviously the fuse approach is easier.

I agree that checking for some type of an obstruction is the first order of business.

Sorry I don't own an 05 Ody yet (planning to buy one this spring). I have been lurking around this site for about 2 1/2 years so have read many posts and believe the above approach has been suggested in the past.

Please let us know how you make out.
 

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Pulling the #7 fuse did the trick, the door is working again. Thanks, you saved me a trip to the dealer!
 

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Another thing that causes headaches is salt on the door contacts. I was getting an open door buzz on our van, I took a look and there was a very tenous coating of corrosion on the door electrical contacts. A little buffing and good as new.
 

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Pulling fuse #7 will work if the system does not throw an error code, if it does you need to take it to the dealer to clear and reset. Apparently this problem is happening to many vans. My van had to have two errors cleared, the service mgr stated that I was the second one in two weeks to have this cleared. He notified Honda. The service rep thought that I tried to open the door when it was frozen, not a chance.. I have SlyGlide on all the seals to prevent that. Doors worked fine manually.
 

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If an error code was triggered will another light turn on on the dash or will it only appear when the van is "hooked up" at the dealer? Sorry for the silly question but we're still new owners trying to learn everythign on the van. Thanks.
 

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There is no way to tell except when you try the fuse #7 trick and it does not work. Then you have to get to the dealer to have the code cleared first before the system can be reset. My van had two codes, one for the door and one for the window.
 

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The door on my 2005 Odyssey (passenger side) closed, but the Slide Door light came on and it refused to budge using any electronic means. Manually opening and closing was a pain. Checked all fuses - all were fine. Tried pulling the driver's footwell fuse #7 (a backup light fuse I think) for two minutes and the door started working again.
 

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Temporary success

I tried the #7 fuse trick tonight and it worked temporarily. After opening and closing the door about five times the light came back on and the door stopped working.

I took this the the Honda dealer last week and they diagnosed it as a faulty actuator so I replaced that on my own thanks to this forum. It didn't fix the problem, however, until I tried the fuse trick.


Now I'm hoping someone has a suggestion on how to make this permanent.


Anyone?
 

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Try Lubricating the contacts

Intermittent sliding door open-door alerts while driving? Happens when turning or over bumps. You checked and the door seems snugly closed? I've had this problem repeatedly and sometimes this or that seems to work and sometimes not. I've tried manual reset and reset with the door switches on the dash console. I've tried pulling the fuses. But I finally determined that, when the prob occurs, I can manually detect a slight stickiness in the contacts in the door and door jamb -- these are the contacts that signal the computer that the door is closed. There is an array of them on the door and mating ones on the jamb. These are not simply stationary contacts; they are spring loaded. If they are the least bit sticky, you can get door signal problems/alerts.

If you have the probs, check these switches to see if they move very freely. They won't be very sticky and cause the prob. If they are very sticky the problem won't be intermittent. If they are jsut a tad sticky, then then one or more of the contacts between the door and the jamb will be poor, resulting in the the flickering light that is susceptible to strong vibrations weight shifts like bumps or turns.

I recommend using a silicone spray because, unlike e.g., WD40 and other lubes made from fish oil, it won't oxidize, dry out, and lose lubricity. This has been the most consistent and long lasting fix I've tried.
On the door side the contacts are spring loaded inside a plastic sleeve and the sleeve is spring loaded too so be sure to lubricate both surfaces on each contact. On the jamb, there is only the sleeve to lubricate. Lubricate liberally with a high quality silicone spray. Use a tube on the spray can so you can avoid over-spray and wipe all the excess off of the contact mating surfaces with an absorbent paper towel -- this will also help clean off any dirt from the contacts although that was probably the first thing you tried as a fix -- but it can't hurt. ;)

Good luck.
 

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I have been chasing this recurring problem down over the past year and think that I fianlly have my issue solved on my 2005.

Clean all the contacts from the battery, throught the main underhood fuse box, to the sliding door fuse box near the main fuse box. 10mm nut at each of the connections.

While they looked good, they apparently werent allowing enough energy to the mechanical actuators in the automatic door opener.
 

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The driver side slider seemed not to latch all the way and created the open door alarm to chime.I removed #7 and waited a few minutes.After replacing the fuse,the door now doesn't work at all.What happened?
 

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Just had this same issue with my right sliding door. Pulled the #7 fuse, and it worked. The manual says that fuse is a "back up", but it worked. Thanks everyone.
 

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Great posts and information guys. My passenger side light just started turning on the other day. I'm going to pull the # 7 fuse tomorrow and hope it works. I'm also going to clean all the "sensors" on the doors. Are the sensors the male and female parts on the doors? Thanks again for the information!!
 

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I've had this problem for a while. The door dinger (bell) has been going off for a while when in reverse or drive. The only way I was able to stop it was by turning off the safety switch on the dash for the doors. The passenger door light would also be on. Every time I would shut my driver door the passenger slider light would go off. Here is what I did: I took out the sensor from the passenger side and swapped it with the drivers side to eliminate the idea of having a bad door sensor. It was doing the same thing when I swapped out the sensors. I always noticed that the door would shut and everything engaged (sounded like it) but the door would slightly be open. I mean slightly open light a hair. You could only notice it from looking from the rear. This was driving me crazy. I was looking at this thing for a while. I lubricated everything looked at the inside of the door and was looking if anything was different. By chance I noticed three stoppers...the rubber things on the door and took out the middle one just for the hell of it. Don't ask me why I did this. I took it out and closed the door and it shut perfectly...got in and voila' no light or dinger on. I can't believe that's what it was. The only thing I can think of was one of my girls could have been playing with it or got something caught on it and maybe pushed it out a little and it wouldn't allow the door to close properly. I never would have thought to look there. Either way it could be a fluke but all I know is that the door is shutting properly. I was ready to bring it to the dealer and have them look at it. Good Luck!
 

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Just had this same issue with my right sliding door. Pulled the #7 fuse, and it worked. The manual says that fuse is a "back up", but it worked. Thanks everyone.
This worked for me too. My driver side rear sliding door would not respond to the key fob or the dash button - no clicks, beeps, lights, or movement. The door had to be manually closed by the handles. I had a dash warning to "check left slide door" on my console.

Reset fuse 15 and that didn't work. Reset fuse 7 and I'm back in business.

Thanks odyclub!
 

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I am a little confused by some of the posts in this thread...it seems there are several different issues with the slide doors being referenced. The OP titled the thread "Slide Door" idiot light, while to me, this indicates the dash light that is amber in color and actually says "Slide Door". But to others who replied, it seems as though they are referring to the picture of the van and the red line that indicates a door is open. The problem I am having with my 2005 Ody is with the "Slide Door" light. It comes on after operating either sliding door 2-3 times. It does not matter which door is operated or by what means (door, dash, fob). Pulling the #7 fuse resets the light and allows the doors to work again for 2-3 cycles, and then exactly 3 seconds after the door closes the light comes back on and the doors refuse to work until pulling the #7 fuse and starting the cycle all over again. Anyone who has had these symptoms and has a suggested resolution I would love to hear from you. I will try the lubrication on the contacts and the wiring connection checks mentioned already by others posters, but would like to hear about any other suggestions. Thanks all for the help.
 
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