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I'd been putting off trying this switch replacement fix but after the other slide door lock actuator went out on me as well I had to get started on both. Replacing the right side lock actuator with the $40 part was a good warm up for replacing the switch on the left latch assembly.

It worked! Less than $10 in parts and a few ours of struggling to figure out what exactly I was supposed to do, definitely worth it. Thanks chanc* and rick* for the step by step and anyone else that contributed to this thread. Appreciate it.

As mentioned by others, getting the latch assembly past the bar that guides the window was a pain, but don't give up! With the window up and the bottom bolt undone you can push the bar pretty far out of the way.
 

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I've been needing to do this for a while. Decided to do it this morning. Followed guides and suggestions in this thread. Might of taken 2 hours. Thanks everyone for the posts.
 

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I wold like to attem to do radio shack fix but after read all the post and still?

hi my 05 odyssey door on the driver side won't open with fob and buttons but if i pull hard from outside it will open. this happened after i replaced the center roller and the door light clear. so anyone could help post the vedio on youtube? am a woman that have no idea to fix the car but can't afford to take to dealer. thanks in advance.
 

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hi my 05 odyssey door on the driver side won't open with fob and buttons but if i pull hard from outside it will open. this happened after i replaced the center roller and the door light clear. so anyone could help post the vedio on youtube? am a woman that have no idea to fix the car but can't afford to take to dealer. thanks in advance.
So, it worked fine before changing the roller? Are you sure you got the roller in EXACTLY the same position it was in prior to replacing it?

Where in Charlotte are you?
 

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hi john clark
i work sometimes and after changed the roller it work for a week and the light came on again and i also change upper roller as well but no good. light came on after reset 5 opening. i am in kannapolis ex58 on 85. i want to change the radio shack sensor but after read all the post and still confused. thx
 

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So, it worked fine before changing the roller? Are you sure you got the roller in EXACTLY the same position it was in prior to replacing it?

Where in Charlotte are you?
yes am sure that i put in exactly the same positions and prior to change the door acting up sometimes and make a noise and light on then i have to reset the door by pulling the fuse #7 and it will works for a day or two. after change the roller and it work for a week then the light came back on again and after that i change the top roller aswell but no good. so now i want to change the radio shack but don't understand how to replace them. i am in kannapolis nc
 

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Most likely you have a bad switch in the rear door latch but without the code, or checking the switch positions with a scan tool it's hard to tell. Replacing the switch with the Radio Shack switch is a modification and is not that easy to do.

I'm on the other side of town, down in Wesley Chapel/Waxhaw area. If you wanted to bring it over I'd be happy to take a look at it, get the code, and check the switch positions with the scan tool. That will tell the tale. The recommended fix is to just replace the rear door latch. You might be able to clean and lube the latch and switches but no guarantee that will fix it. You can attempt to replace the switch (depending on which switch has failed) but that's a tricky process as the switch doesn't fit and the latch assembly has to be modified.
 

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Intermittent sliding door open-door alerts while driving? Happens when turning or over bumps. You checked and the door seems snugly closed? I've had this problem repeatedly and sometimes this or that seems to work and sometimes not. I've tried manual reset and reset with the door switches on the dash console. I've tried pulling the fuses. But I finally determined that, when the prob occurs, I can manually detect a slight stickiness in the contacts in the door and door jamb -- these are the contacts that signal the computer that the door is closed. There is an array of them on the door and mating ones on the jamb. These are not simply stationary contacts; they are spring loaded. If they are the least bit sticky, you can get door signal problems/alerts.

I recommend using a silicone spray because, unlike e.g., WD40 and other lubes made from fish oil, it won't oxidize, dry out, and lose lubricity. This has been the most consistent and long lasting fix I've tried.

On the door side the contacts are spring loaded inside a plastic sleeve and the sleeve is spring loaded too so be sure to lubricate both surfaces on each contact. On the jamb, there is only the sleeve to lubricate. Lubricate liberally with a high quality silicone spray. Use a tube on the spray can so you can avoid over-spray and wipe all the excess off of the contact mating surfaces with an absorbent paper towel -- this will also help clean off any dirt from the contacts although that was probably the first thing you tried as a fix -- but it can't hurt. ;) Good luck.
After reading this, I looked for the contacts on the door and the jamb. I have a 2007 Odyssey EX-L, am I missing something because I see no contacts or plastic sleeve. The OP didn't mention his year Ody.
 

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After reading this, I looked for the contacts on the door and the jamb. I have a 2007 Odyssey EX-L, am I missing something because I see no contacts or plastic sleeve. The OP didn't mention his year Ody.
The door open/courtesy light switch is in the rear sliding door jam area. It looks just like the one on the front door jamb.
 

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I just finished dealing with this. The rear switch for "ratchet" position caused door to have 2 cycles before error light. And 4 second delay befor it pulls latch/door at end of travel. After dealing with the micro switch remove fuse 7 manually cycle both doors. Then all is well. BTW buying these microswitches on Alibaba for about $2 for a half dozen and using regular self tapping general screws wouls save you plenty on replacing all 6 micro switches
 

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I applied the "Radio Shack fix" discussed above to both doors of my 2005 Odyssey last summer. Things worked great for about 9 months, and now the light is back on and the right rear sliding door is displaying the same old symptoms. I can't stand the idea of having to take that door apart again!

Has anybody else experienced a similar failure after applying the fix? I'm wondering if it might be a completely different cause, whether I did something wrong installing those switches, or if perhaps the Radio Shack switches aren't rugged enough for this purpose and somehow failed.

Sigh!
 

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First thing I'd do is check for codes. There is a port in the fuse/relay panel behind the kickpanel that can be jumped and then the key turned on and it will show you codes on the gauge cluster.

That said, you applied a "hack fix" and now are surprised that 9 months later it doesn't work? I'm not surprised. There is no way for any of us here to know what may have caused the new failure. You're going to have to remove the door latch and inspect it.
 

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Time to do the other slider (9 mo later)

Adding a couple of pics of the switch used and placement on rear latch assembly.
Radio Shack 2750017 Switch connections - 205 Ody sliding door fix 2017-07-07_10-48-13.jpg

Been almost a year and time to do the Passenger slider now (it was inevitable). I found the screws & nuts and also had remembered to buy an extra switch too.

I was reviewing my notes and see that one side of the Radio Shack 2750017 switch has terminal #s stamped in the black plastic and the other shows the state so just documenting for myself and if it helps anyone else:

- "C" is Common & Terminal 1 & attach the black wire

- "NC" is Normally Closed & Terminal 3, & attach the blue wire

Note: Terminal 3 (NO - Normally open) is not used in this application
 

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Thanks for the update. Done right I see no problem with this fix. The problem is that done wrong it won't last. Your fix looks good, though.
 

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After paying $1000 to have my left side door fixed a little over a year ago, I decided to fix the right side on my own this time. Using the knowledge gained from reading this thread, I was able to fix the door for less that $15 in around 3 hours. I also videoed the process to hopefully help some others avoid costly repairs in the future.

 

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Thanks a lot to this forum especially to this video, I did it it too, just a little note that I found the parts in Frys store since no Radio Shacks store is near me, just look for Philmore sub-Miniature snap Acton switch with Roller at FRYS, a good match, slightly larger than original but fits very good in the place and of course the 2-58 screws and nuts. I started with replacing the middle roller but the sliding door light keep coming back on and then found this article which was exactly describing my issue, I got the same D2088 error that earz showed in his video. My car is 2008 EXL-NAV RES but basically the same as others showing in the videos. :cool::cool:
 

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I just did the radio shack switch fix. Thanks all for the videos and parts listing. Just a couple of notes:
1. Have the door in the slightly open position when removing the lock assembly, otherwise it is latched to the door frame.
2. When installing the lock assembly, insert the 3 inside screws but do not fully tighten. Then install the three screws on the back of the door. Then fully tighten the inside screws.
 

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Just running into an issue that I haven't run into before. Thanks to this thread I did the latch assembly on the right door a year ago. Now just finished installing the left side latch assembly but can't get the "power" part of the sliding door to work. The one difference this time is that if the rear of the door is pushed in it now holds it latched instead of releasing immediately as before.

My question is this. Are there any resets or anything to make that door start performing?
 

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Thanks so much for posting this video, however I followed all the directions to the T (including verifying continuity before and after replacing the microswitch) but the warning light comes on after a few times of testing the door. Weird thing is now, in the few times that it does work after resetting the doors, there is a few seconds delay between the time the door closes and the time it latches that did not used to be there before. Any idea what it could be?​



After paying $1000 to have my left side door fixed a little over a year ago, I decided to fix the right side on my own this time. Using the knowledge gained from reading this thread, I was able to fix the door for less that $15 in around 3 hours. I also videoed the process to hopefully help some others avoid costly repairs in the future.

 
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