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Thanks so much for posting this video, however I followed all the directions to the T (including verifying continuity before and after replacing the microswitch) but the warning light comes on after a few times of testing the door. Weird thing is now, in the few times that it does work after resetting the doors, there is a few seconds delay between the time the door closes and the time it latches that did not used to be there before. Any idea what it could be?​


There are four different microswitches in the rear door latch. Any of them can fail. Also, the switches can be fine but the latch can stick and not activate a perfectly good switch. Both failures are common.

If the Slide Door light is on then that means a code is stored. Use a jumper wire across the #4 and #9 pins of the DLC and then turn on the key. It should display the codes on the gauge cluster. You can then use the trip meter knob to scroll through them if there is more than one. Post the code(s) back here. Just be careful when jumping the terminals as you don't want to spread them or damage them so they don't make connection to a scan tool at a later date.

 

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John, I used to advise that trick on the OBD2 connector but I’ve heard of some folks who are not good at counting. Shorted the wrong pins!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Usually, the worst thing you can do is blow a fuse. Even if you short the CAN bus to power or ground you won't hurt it permanently. You may set a code for a communication error.

It's either this or take the vehicle for a professional diagnostic for $100+.
 

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There are four different microswitches in the rear door latch. Any of them can fail. Also, the switches can be fine but the latch can stick and not activate a perfectly good switch. Both failures are common.

If the Slide Door light is on then that means a code is stored. Use a jumper wire across the #4 and #9 pins of the DLC and then turn on the key. It should display the codes on the gauge cluster. You can then use the trip meter knob to scroll through them if there is more than one. Post the code(s) back here. Just be careful when jumping the terminals as you don't want to spread them or damage them so they don't make connection to a scan tool at a later date.

Thanks. I checked the code. its still B2088, which I am pretty sure means latch issue everyone here was able to fix, but I guess I have an additional component that is having issues. I tested continuity according to the service manual (here), I don't know what they mean by ratchet, but full latch and base tested ok. Half latch did not (no continuity between B3 and B5), but I just moved it manually to half latch position before the test with a screwdriver so not sure if that was a good test. B5 (black) is the negative wire, so shared between all of them, B3 (yellow) seems to connect to black circle ontop of the white plastic that covers the latch, doesn't seem to be easily replaceable. I am considering getting a used or new latch assembly, which I am pretty sure will solve the problem. My wife misses power doors for school drop off and such :).

Let me know if you have any thoughts.
 

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B2088 is right side power sliding door base position switch open or shorted. So, the switch could be closed when it's supposed to be open or it could be open when the computer thinks it should be closed. Just because you have continuity doesn't mean the latch and switch is working as it's supposed to. I have never seen this issue caused by anything other than the latch. It's always possible you have an open or short in the wire to the base position switch but I've never seen that.

I looked at the service manual page you're looking at and it's different from the one in my service manual which covers 07-10 Ody. It shows the base position in the On position during door in motion only. At overstroke and then at the end of the door cycle it shows it on the off position. If your base position switch is showing continuity when the door is fully closed then that would be your issue. I'm guessing the early version of the manual is incorrect as I doubt the doors work any different on the 05 and 06 models when compared with the 07-10 models.
 

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B2088 is right side power sliding door base position switch open or shorted. So, the switch could be closed when it's supposed to be open or it could be open when the computer thinks it should be closed. Just because you have continuity doesn't mean the latch and switch is working as it's supposed to. I have never seen this issue caused by anything other than the latch. It's always possible you have an open or short in the wire to the base position switch but I've never seen that.

I looked at the service manual page you're looking at and it's different from the one in my service manual which covers 07-10 Ody. It shows the base position in the On position during door in motion only. At overstroke and then at the end of the door cycle it shows it on the off position. If your base position switch is showing continuity when the door is fully closed then that would be your issue. I'm guessing the early version of the manual is incorrect as I doubt the doors work any different on the 05 and 06 models when compared with the 07-10 models.
Thanks John. You are right - I checked the manual and B2088 is for the base position switch circuit. What would be my next troubleshooting step if I replaced the microswitch?
 

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Thanks John. You are right - I checked the manual and B2088 is for the base position switch circuit. What would be my next troubleshooting step if I replaced the microswitch?
There are four different microswitches in the latch. How do you know you replaced the right one? Even if you did, the latch has to mechanically activate the switch so a mechanically sticking latch can cause an electrical circuit code. Most likely, you need to repair/replace the latch assembly. Sometimes cleaning/lubing the latch and making sure all the cams and gears are free and working correctly will fix it. Other times it's just worn and needs to be replaced.
 

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There are four different microswitches in the latch. How do you know you replaced the right one? Even if you did, the latch has to mechanically activate the switch so a mechanically sticking latch can cause an electrical circuit code. Most likely, you need to repair/replace the latch assembly. Sometimes cleaning/lubing the latch and making sure all the cams and gears are free and working correctly will fix it. Other times it's just worn and needs to be replaced.
I might be missing something here, but according to the manual there are other codes for the half latch and full latch switches which I assume are the other microswitches in the latch assembly, which means the B2088 code is only for the base position microswitch which is the one I replaced. Like you said there is still the mechanical factor here so I am going to try and lube it and see what happens. Is there any way to test further? maybe even plug it into power and see if the large gear is being turned by the motor so the microswitch gets turned on and off as it should? I am guessing no easy way and its time to get a new/used latch assembly.
 

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I might be missing something here, but according to the manual there are other codes for the half latch and full latch switches which I assume are the other microswitches in the latch assembly, which means the B2088 code is only for the base position microswitch which is the one I replaced. Like you said there is still the mechanical factor here so I am going to try and lube it and see what happens. Is there any way to test further? maybe even plug it into power and see if the large gear is being turned by the motor so the microswitch gets turned on and off as it should? I am guessing no easy way and its time to get a new/used latch assembly.
I had a code B2038 which is same as B2088 but for left door. I just replaced one of microswitch in the latch assembly and now the door is working as it should do. You can find two switch in the latch assembly. One is for detecting base position and another one is for detecting position of latch. You should do continuity test of both switches. The first one which normally shows continuity when lever is not engaged (NC type) and another switch near the latch should show no continuity when lever is not engaged. A brand new direct fit switch is available on eBay so you don't need to drill or modify the switch.
 

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It seems I may get to attempt the "Radio Shack" fix: The Slide Door indicator is lit on our stalwart '05, indicating some issue with--in my case--the drvr side door. All the usual symptoms discussed within this thread are present: The rehome procedure clears the Slide Door light and the door opens normally, temporarily--then it stops working automatically and the Slide Door light reappears. The usual complement of DTCs are present: b1075, 76, 80, and 2038 (11). (Note: The problem I describe does not include the door unlocking and reversing itself after fully closing--a completely different issue that is discussed here.)

With the demise of the ubiquitous Radio Shacks-in-every-plaza, one must turn to radioshack.com, where the roller switch remains available with a very modest mailing fee. DigiKey sells eleventy-bazillion iterations of roller switch should the Radio Shack supply run short or you're partial to buying a switch that's closer to OEM.

A tip for fellow cheapskates:
At radioshack.com, add the switch, screws, and whatever else to the cart, proceed to Checkout and complete the billing/mailing address form and close your browser. After 24 hours or so, you'll receive a coupon code in your Inbox as incentive to complete your order. (Apply this strategy to every online purchase.)

Fortunately for me, I'm near the Mecca of used Honda parts: Beaver's Honda Salvage just north of Charlotte, so I have the option of replacing the entire rear latch assembly at an exponential savings over new should that need arise.

Sliding door panel coming off, boss... Cover me, I'm going in...
 

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Since Radio Shack really isn't a thing anymore:

I believe these are the closest matching switches at Digi-Key:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ABJ362860/255-6457-ND/4691828 (NC switch for the base position switch)

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electric-works/ABJ363860/255-6509-ND/9608182 (NO switch used in most other places)


I ordered the Ebay switch for my car: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-sliding-door-assembly-microswitch-NC-type-for-05-10-Honda-Odyssey-/264251321457

It looks just like the Digi-Key part, however. I haven't received my order yet to confirm (just ordered last night). The Ebay part is $20, but it's still $13 for a single switch from Digi-Key after shipping, so there's that.

This is a high-quality switch, IP67 dust and water resistant... it looks like it is better quality than the Radio Shack roller...
 

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The "Radio Shack Fix" worked for me!

I replaced the OEM roller switch with the $3 RadioShack 2750017 SPDT Switch I got from radioshack.com. I ordered two for a total expenditure of ~$10. After I remounted the door actuator assembly with its retrofitted roller switches, I covered the roller switch with a smidgen of water-resistant butyl rubber tape. The door has worked flawlessly as expected since July '19.

For whatever a stranger's endorsement is worth...
I vouch for the quality/suitability of the RadioShack roller switch for this retrofit, AND the efficacy of the hack described in this thread.
 

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Just did this fix over the weekend. Had the B2038 code, so I replaced the base limit switch. When I had the assembly out, I tested the old switch and there was no continuity between pins 5 and 6. Worked great with the new switch. Also replaced a broken lock actuator at the same time.

The Ebay switch I used didn't require any drilling or new screws. I cut the sheath for the wiring bundle about 1" from the end with the switch and spliced in the new switch using solder + heat shrink.

Biggest challenge to me was getting the clips undone that hold the cables to the door. Fingernails worked better than pliers for me.

Thanks to all who contributed - I would have been lost without this thread.
 

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Здравствуйте мои американские друзья. Я сам из России и владею 2008 туринг. Прочитал всю ветку по дверям и ошибкам.
Понятно что
B2038
B2088
Это именно проблема с микровыключателем.
А может кто знает ошибку
B2075
Что она значит ???????
Уменя после установки автосигнализации, при поиске концевиков контрольной лампой, перестали нормально работать двери задние.
 

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I've had issues with the center hinge assembly. Many times the rollers are broken or missing causing issues opening and closing the sliding door. I also had a roller where the hinge was not moving. After using some WD40 to loosen the hinge and lithium grease to lubricate, my door closed properly and the interior light remained off when the door was closed.
There is a thread in the 2nd generation forum ($5 roller repair) that explains how to repair the rollers. The part described also worked on my brother's 3rd generation '07.
 

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Здравствуйте мои американские друзья. Я сам из России и владею 2008 туринг. Прочитал всю ветку по дверям и ошибкам.
Понятно что
B2038
B2088
Это именно проблема с микровыключателем.
А может кто знает ошибку
B2075
Что она значит ???????
Уменя после установки автосигнализации, при поиске концевиков контрольной лампой, перестали нормально работать двери задние.
Вот как диагностировать эту проблему
153426
 
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