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Okay my passenger side slider door says open but the seatbelt idiot light also comes on and DINGS. It won’t stop. It is driving me and my clients totally crazy. It doesn’t happen all day but enough that I keep a headache Monday through Friday
 

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Med- There is a switch in the seatbelt latch that sometimes needs cleaning. Since mine caused the airbag light to go on it was covered by Honda and they replaced it.
What troubleshooting have you done? Have you checked the rear bottom switches for the slider?
 

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There are little switches inside the latch motor assemblies that tell when the door is fully closed and latched. Might also have the “plunger” switch on the door jamb that controls the dinger. As the door takes a beating it doesn’t close quite far enough to trip the switch. So you probably need to get it re-aligned and maybe the center roller refreshed so it hits home better. The latch motors also dry out/and or get weak after the grease dries/cruds in the latch. You get a “pop!” Noise when opening or refusal to latch completely when closing. Digging in and cleaning/lubing the latches is probably a 5 year 60k mile maint item. Replacing one or both isn’t uncommon over 120k miles especially if never cared for. Not that hard to get in there. YouTube has vids. Used seatbelt latch might fix the seat light. Or cleaning as suggested. Maybe some compressed air followed by electrical contact cleaner, followed by compressed air. Like for computer keyboards

I always knew these “automagic” doors would be a pricey fix down the line. Dealer managers make their boat payments on fixing them. So far only my drivers side door has crapped itself. Used latch motor 30k ago, new ctr slider 60k ago. Needs alignment again. Closed and not used anymore. Couldn’t get it to close before w broken latch motor. Passenger door still holding up. 🤞🤞
07 EX-L 160k miles.

waiting for the RES to crap out too. $$$ 🤞 😂

it it’s just the “plunger” switch on the door jamb, you may be able to “shim” it with a few layers of tape to plug the gap. Little circles/squares of clear packing tape wouldn’t be too noticeable...until you get it aligned etc.
 

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Med- There is a switch in the seatbelt latch that sometimes needs cleaning. Since mine caused the airbag light to go on it was covered by Honda and they replaced it.
What troubleshooting have you done? Have you checked the rear bottom switches for the slider?
I’ve been trying to locate the fuses to just pull them to no avail. So now I am trying to seriously troubleshoot since the company doesn’t seem to want to put me in another van and fix this one. As long as I don’t have to spend money I’ll do what needs done. If it’s a part... the company is gonna purchase or suffer being a driver down
 

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There are little switches inside the latch motor assemblies that tell when the door is fully closed and latched. Might also have the “plunger” switch on the door jamb that controls the dinger. As the door takes a beating it doesn’t close quite far enough to trip the switch. So you probably need to get it re-aligned and maybe the center roller refreshed so it hits home better. The latch motors also dry out/and or get weak after the grease dries/cruds in the latch. You get a “pop!” Noise when opening or refusal to latch completely when closing. Digging in and cleaning/lubing the latches is probably a 5 year 60k mile maint item. Replacing one or both isn’t uncommon over 120k miles especially if never cared for. Not that hard to get in there. YouTube has vids. Used seatbelt latch might fix the seat light. Or cleaning as suggested. Maybe some compressed air followed by electrical contact cleaner, followed by compressed air. Like for computer keyboards

I always knew these “automagic” doors would be a pricey fix down the line. Dealer managers make their boat payments on fixing them. So far only my drivers side door has crapped itself. Used latch motor 30k ago, new ctr slider 60k ago. Needs alignment again. Closed and not used anymore. Couldn’t get it to close before w broken latch motor. Passenger door still holding up. 🤞🤞
07 EX-L 160k miles.

waiting for the RES to crap out too. $$$ 🤞 😂

it it’s just the “plunger” switch on the door jamb, you may be able to “shim” it with a few layers of tape to plug the gap. Little circles/squares of clear packing tape wouldn’t be too noticeable...until you get it aligned etc.
I’m gonna try using the air compressor and blow everything off and out. I have some electrical circuit cleaner... some grease and some WD40 If cleaning and lubing these things don’t work I’ll drop it at the shop with the list of things that it’s doing. Door sensor saying passenger sliding door open as long as it doesn’t ding can deal. I can not deal with the seat belt dinging 9 times (3 sets of 3) every 1.5 minutes.
 

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I wouldn't use grease in the seatbelt latch. (You are not getting an Airbag light when driving?)
As far as locating fuses- look at post #116 on page 6- ody-clubber Earz posted a very useful video!
 

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I’m gonna try using the air compressor and blow everything off and out. I have some electrical circuit cleaner... some grease and some WD40 If cleaning and lubing these things don’t work I’ll drop it at the shop with the list of things that it’s doing. Door sensor saying passenger sliding door open as long as it doesn’t ding can deal.
I have heard that if there is a problem with the seatbelt on some cars fiddling with it can deploy the airbag. On some hondas if there is a problem the dealer is supposed to fix it lifetime for free - does anyone know if that's the case with this gen?
 

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My buckle was replaced free because Airbag light was on. I pulled the SRS code and confirmed code was for the seatbelt switch, to avoid a diagnostic fee if it was not. Knowing the code and problem helps when talking to the service manager to see if this is covered by warranty.
 

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I’m gonna try using the air compressor and blow everything off and out. I have some electrical circuit cleaner... some grease and some WD40 If cleaning and lubing these things don’t work I’ll drop it at the shop with the list of things that it’s doing.
I fixed this problem in 15 mins - 5 mins watching this vid in 2x speed:
5 mins drive to store, 5 mins spraying with CRC QD® Electronic Cleaner <$10 at Advance auto !!! I did it from the back seat with the keys out of the ignition for extra airbag safety.

I didn't need to do the ODBII part as directed by the mechanic in the video since I could reproduce the 'door open light' as soon as I unplugged the seat belt. After heavy spraying - a bit more than the video the problem went away. I JUST used the spray- no air or anything other than working the latch with the spray tip deep like in the video.

Good luck.
 
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