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"Slide Door" idiot light is on

298K views 153 replies 67 participants last post by  WiiMaster 
#1 ·
First, we just picked up the van yesterday and all was well.

We just got back from Target and now the "Slide Door" light is on. We went to breakfast and then Target and both power doors were working as they should. We left the store and opened the doors with the fob. After getting the kids straped in, the driver's door closed automatically. My wife closed the passenger's side door and it started to close automatically but it didn't look like it latched shut completely and the light went on. I tried using the button on the dash and it didn't work and then I tried the fob and it didn't work. I also turned the car off and restarted it hoping what ever problem was occuring would be corrected by having everything reset itself and unfortunately it didn't. According to the manual I should turn the main switch to "OFF" and take it in. Before I take it in does anyone have any suggestions on how I might get it working again?
 
G
#2 ·
I assume you've checked around to make sure the door isn't trying to close on something? (belt, jacket, etc) There have been a couple threads about sliders being out of alignment (ours was slightly, but not enough to interfere with operation). If there's nothing in the way you'll probably want the dealer to check that your alignment is ok.

--> Andy
 
#3 ·
Try removing the appropriate fuse (and then replacing). If you can't figure out which fuse then a more drastic approach would be to disconnect the battery's positive terminal for a few minutes and reconnect (you will then have to reset your radio stations, clock etc - also I believe there may be a stereo security code that you will need to enter). Obviously the fuse approach is easier.

I agree that checking for some type of an obstruction is the first order of business.

Sorry I don't own an 05 Ody yet (planning to buy one this spring). I have been lurking around this site for about 2 1/2 years so have read many posts and believe the above approach has been suggested in the past.

Please let us know how you make out.
 
#7 ·
Pulling fuse #7 will work if the system does not throw an error code, if it does you need to take it to the dealer to clear and reset. Apparently this problem is happening to many vans. My van had to have two errors cleared, the service mgr stated that I was the second one in two weeks to have this cleared. He notified Honda. The service rep thought that I tried to open the door when it was frozen, not a chance.. I have SlyGlide on all the seals to prevent that. Doors worked fine manually.
 
#9 ·
There is no way to tell except when you try the fuse #7 trick and it does not work. Then you have to get to the dealer to have the code cleared first before the system can be reset. My van had two codes, one for the door and one for the window.
 
#10 ·
The door on my 2005 Odyssey (passenger side) closed, but the Slide Door light came on and it refused to budge using any electronic means. Manually opening and closing was a pain. Checked all fuses - all were fine. Tried pulling the driver's footwell fuse #7 (a backup light fuse I think) for two minutes and the door started working again.
 
#11 ·
Temporary success

I tried the #7 fuse trick tonight and it worked temporarily. After opening and closing the door about five times the light came back on and the door stopped working.

I took this the the Honda dealer last week and they diagnosed it as a faulty actuator so I replaced that on my own thanks to this forum. It didn't fix the problem, however, until I tried the fuse trick.


Now I'm hoping someone has a suggestion on how to make this permanent.


Anyone?
 
#12 ·
Try Lubricating the contacts

Intermittent sliding door open-door alerts while driving? Happens when turning or over bumps. You checked and the door seems snugly closed? I've had this problem repeatedly and sometimes this or that seems to work and sometimes not. I've tried manual reset and reset with the door switches on the dash console. I've tried pulling the fuses. But I finally determined that, when the prob occurs, I can manually detect a slight stickiness in the contacts in the door and door jamb -- these are the contacts that signal the computer that the door is closed. There is an array of them on the door and mating ones on the jamb. These are not simply stationary contacts; they are spring loaded. If they are the least bit sticky, you can get door signal problems/alerts.

If you have the probs, check these switches to see if they move very freely. They won't be very sticky and cause the prob. If they are very sticky the problem won't be intermittent. If they are jsut a tad sticky, then then one or more of the contacts between the door and the jamb will be poor, resulting in the the flickering light that is susceptible to strong vibrations weight shifts like bumps or turns.

I recommend using a silicone spray because, unlike e.g., WD40 and other lubes made from fish oil, it won't oxidize, dry out, and lose lubricity. This has been the most consistent and long lasting fix I've tried.
On the door side the contacts are spring loaded inside a plastic sleeve and the sleeve is spring loaded too so be sure to lubricate both surfaces on each contact. On the jamb, there is only the sleeve to lubricate. Lubricate liberally with a high quality silicone spray. Use a tube on the spray can so you can avoid over-spray and wipe all the excess off of the contact mating surfaces with an absorbent paper towel -- this will also help clean off any dirt from the contacts although that was probably the first thing you tried as a fix -- but it can't hurt. ;)

Good luck.
 
#109 ·
Intermittent sliding door open-door alerts while driving? Happens when turning or over bumps. You checked and the door seems snugly closed? I've had this problem repeatedly and sometimes this or that seems to work and sometimes not. I've tried manual reset and reset with the door switches on the dash console. I've tried pulling the fuses. But I finally determined that, when the prob occurs, I can manually detect a slight stickiness in the contacts in the door and door jamb -- these are the contacts that signal the computer that the door is closed. There is an array of them on the door and mating ones on the jamb. These are not simply stationary contacts; they are spring loaded. If they are the least bit sticky, you can get door signal problems/alerts.

I recommend using a silicone spray because, unlike e.g., WD40 and other lubes made from fish oil, it won't oxidize, dry out, and lose lubricity. This has been the most consistent and long lasting fix I've tried.

On the door side the contacts are spring loaded inside a plastic sleeve and the sleeve is spring loaded too so be sure to lubricate both surfaces on each contact. On the jamb, there is only the sleeve to lubricate. Lubricate liberally with a high quality silicone spray. Use a tube on the spray can so you can avoid over-spray and wipe all the excess off of the contact mating surfaces with an absorbent paper towel -- this will also help clean off any dirt from the contacts although that was probably the first thing you tried as a fix -- but it can't hurt. ;) Good luck.
After reading this, I looked for the contacts on the door and the jamb. I have a 2007 Odyssey EX-L, am I missing something because I see no contacts or plastic sleeve. The OP didn't mention his year Ody.
 
#13 ·
I have been chasing this recurring problem down over the past year and think that I fianlly have my issue solved on my 2005.

Clean all the contacts from the battery, throught the main underhood fuse box, to the sliding door fuse box near the main fuse box. 10mm nut at each of the connections.

While they looked good, they apparently werent allowing enough energy to the mechanical actuators in the automatic door opener.
 
#83 ·
Sliding door and Lock stop working all together





Hi, I know this is and old thread, but my driver side sliding door and lock stop working all together. The passenger side sliding door still works, but won't close when van is in an incline. I have to help it to close it. Now, you say to clean the contact on the battery. But I have like 7 batteries in my van. 6 in the back of the middle seat and 1 in the hood. Oh, and my slide door idiot lights stays on. At first it beeps while in drive, but now it doesn't beep anymore, but the lights stay on.

Should I replace the actuator?
 
#19 ·
This worked for me too. My driver side rear sliding door would not respond to the key fob or the dash button - no clicks, beeps, lights, or movement. The door had to be manually closed by the handles. I had a dash warning to "check left slide door" on my console.

Reset fuse 15 and that didn't work. Reset fuse 7 and I'm back in business.

Thanks odyclub!
 
#16 ·
Great posts and information guys. My passenger side light just started turning on the other day. I'm going to pull the # 7 fuse tomorrow and hope it works. I'm also going to clean all the "sensors" on the doors. Are the sensors the male and female parts on the doors? Thanks again for the information!!
 
#17 ·
I've had this problem for a while. The door dinger (bell) has been going off for a while when in reverse or drive. The only way I was able to stop it was by turning off the safety switch on the dash for the doors. The passenger door light would also be on. Every time I would shut my driver door the passenger slider light would go off. Here is what I did: I took out the sensor from the passenger side and swapped it with the drivers side to eliminate the idea of having a bad door sensor. It was doing the same thing when I swapped out the sensors. I always noticed that the door would shut and everything engaged (sounded like it) but the door would slightly be open. I mean slightly open light a hair. You could only notice it from looking from the rear. This was driving me crazy. I was looking at this thing for a while. I lubricated everything looked at the inside of the door and was looking if anything was different. By chance I noticed three stoppers...the rubber things on the door and took out the middle one just for the hell of it. Don't ask me why I did this. I took it out and closed the door and it shut perfectly...got in and voila' no light or dinger on. I can't believe that's what it was. The only thing I can think of was one of my girls could have been playing with it or got something caught on it and maybe pushed it out a little and it wouldn't allow the door to close properly. I never would have thought to look there. Either way it could be a fluke but all I know is that the door is shutting properly. I was ready to bring it to the dealer and have them look at it. Good Luck!
 
#20 ·
I am a little confused by some of the posts in this thread...it seems there are several different issues with the slide doors being referenced. The OP titled the thread "Slide Door" idiot light, while to me, this indicates the dash light that is amber in color and actually says "Slide Door". But to others who replied, it seems as though they are referring to the picture of the van and the red line that indicates a door is open. The problem I am having with my 2005 Ody is with the "Slide Door" light. It comes on after operating either sliding door 2-3 times. It does not matter which door is operated or by what means (door, dash, fob). Pulling the #7 fuse resets the light and allows the doors to work again for 2-3 cycles, and then exactly 3 seconds after the door closes the light comes back on and the doors refuse to work until pulling the #7 fuse and starting the cycle all over again. Anyone who has had these symptoms and has a suggested resolution I would love to hear from you. I will try the lubrication on the contacts and the wiring connection checks mentioned already by others posters, but would like to hear about any other suggestions. Thanks all for the help.
 
#152 ·
May the Force be with you. I understand your frustration. Imagine what would happen if this occurred in flight. If we combined our efforts maybe we can find out what the :Slide Door: indicator is actually monitoring and why it seems to conflict with the door closure light.
 
#21 ·
AirForceOdy. I have been having the same exact problem. I pull #7 and the door works 4 or 5 times then I shut off the van and restart and the door does not work and the dash light "Slide Door" comes on. It's like it completely shuts power off to that door. No sound coming from the door at all. The dealer recommended the latch actuator, but from what I've read people that replaced that had a little different symptoms. The dealer quoted $500 for that fix, but we did not have it done. He quoted $250 for the part when you can actually buy the part for about $50 and do it yourself. They also replaced the center roller (that probably didn't need to be changed). I have no idea what is going on but if someone has any suggestions....bring them on. Thank you.
 
#23 ·
I'm having very similar problems AirForceOdy. I can't figure out a pattern. I borrowed a friend's OBD2 scanner to try and read the code, but apparently the SLIDE DOOR codes aren't available through normal OBD2. You have to buy a special HDS reader (I think that means Honda Diagnostic System) because the doors are on a different network (B-CAN vs F-CAN). I found this thread on the forums and I'm gonna try using the jumper to read the B-CAN error code.

Retrieving B-CAN DTCs
 
#25 ·
My Service Manual on CD seems to be missing some sections.
B2038 means "LEFT POWER SLIDING DOOR BASE POSITION SWITCH CIRCUIT OPEN/OPEN/SHORT"
B2088 means "LEFT POWER SLIDING DOOR BASE POSITION SWITCH CIRCUIT OPEN/OPEN/SHORT"

I find it hard to believe that the sensor has failed in both doors simultaneously. Which means the real problem is probably in the B1080 code. But I'm missing that section of Service Manual. I found one Google hit that described B1080 as "Power Supply Circuit (IG1 line) Input Error for Relay Control Module and MICU" but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that. This Multiplex Integrated Control Unit seems to be incorporated into the fuse board to the left of the emergency brake pedal. But it also has a MICU Rear Junction Box in the right rear next to the right power sliding door control unit.
 
#26 ·
I cleared the codes by pulling #7 fuse. This made the "SLIDE DOOR" light go away, but I checked for error codes again anyway by shoving aluminum foil in that test port. Now I have four codes:
b1055
b1056
b1057
b1080

But I notice that the two codes b2038 and b2088 are gone. Those only show up if you cycle the power sliding door open/closed three times. So I think the problem is really in either the MICU or the Relay Control Module, or the wiring between them.
 
#27 ·
The saga continues. I cleared the b1055, b1056, b1057 and b1080 codes. But I'm not sure how. I pulled and checked the #21 fuse in the panel beside the parking break. And I pulled and checked the #23 fuse in the box under the hood. Both good. Read the codes and there were none. Then I opened and closed the left power sliding door three times and the "SLIDE DOOR" light came on. Read the codes and there's only one code now, b2038. So maybe the b10xx codes are false leads. I guess I'll go through the troubleshooting steps for the b2038 code.
 
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