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Discussion Starter #1
My rear passenger slider is sometimes showing 'open' on the dash and then when I drive it turns off. I lubed everything I could reach without removing panels and that worked for a few weeks - but the problem is back again. Before someone suggested changing the actuator - but there are 2 parts called actuator. Which is the right one? A. Actuator assembly door lock or B. Actuator assembly power release?
Here is the diagram for my ody: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?Vin=5FNRL38866B023772&Filter=()&SubCategoryUrl=slide-door-locks-outer-handle&Diagram=&PartNumbers=&PNC=10
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Two issues come to my mind. First with the center roller assembly. Frequently the rollers disintegrate and the door is hard to operate. Had to replace rollers on one side, the other side rollers were good- but the door light frequently went on. Discovered that the hinge was stiff. After freeing and lubing the hinge door closes properly and light stays off.
2nd, on this generation, the lower rear switch assembly causes problems. Some people fix the problem by removing the assembly and cleaning the switches.

You say you lubed everything in sight. That might not be good enough. Fairly easy to remove the roller assembly. Remove taillight, unscrew body panel from both ends and slide off. With door partly open, support door and unbolt the roller assembly. You can slide it back and inspect it without removing the cable. Check the rollers and see if the hinge moves freely. Mine needed WD40 and some force to get the hinge moving again.
Here's where I document repairing my '99 Odyssey Rollers, I replaced the rollers on my brother's '07 and the process was the same, only the bolts/screws were a bit different.
 

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My rear passenger slider is sometimes showing 'open' on the dash and then when I drive it turns off. I lubed everything I could reach without removing panels and that worked for a few weeks - but the problem is back again. Before someone suggested changing the actuator - but there are 2 parts called actuator. Which is the right one? A. Actuator assembly door lock or B. Actuator assembly power release?
Any correlation to the temperature?

My '06 hates the really cold weather. Problem typically occurs in the single digits, F°.

The driver's power door doesn't always completely latch, causing symptoms such as you have described. Sometimes it looks and feels completely closed, but the door shows open and the alarm sounds when put in drive. Sometimes the alarm sounds even with no door open light. Once the van warms up, the problem goes away.

Only happens in the very cold but not every time it's very cold. How am I supposed to look for that problem? :unsure:
 

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As is posted here often (almost everyday), a very common issue with the sliding doors is a faulty rear door latch module (sorry I do not know the exact name or part number. It might be #10 or 33 in your parts diagram). It has internal microswitches that fail causing very erratic door behavior. It sometimes also causes a 0.4 amp parasitic battery drain. This could be your issue, or you might simply have a bad door switch, which is inexpensive and easy to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the tips
you might simply have a bad door switch, which is inexpensive and easy to replace.
Not the simple door switch - I removed it and on the other doors - the open indicators went away but not on this right rear door - so I know it's probably something inside the locking mechanism.

As is posted here often (almost everyday) ... a faulty rear door latch module (sorry I do not know the exact name or part number. It might be #10 or 33 in your parts diagram). ...
Hopefully, somebody who solved a similar problem will know what the right part number is. PPL often mention the lock actuators as the culprit - the 2 related to the actuators are cheap. I like the @DerbyDad03 approach of taking it all apart and evaluating everything especially since it seems to happen more when it's cold and not engaging well enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any correlation to the temperature?

The driver's power door doesn't always completely latch, causing symptoms such as you have described. Sometimes it looks and feels completely closed, but the door shows open and the alarm sounds when put in drive. Sometimes the alarm sounds even with no door open light. Once the van warms up, the problem goes away.

Only happens in the very cold but not every time it's very cold. How am I supposed to look for that problem? :unsure:
LOL so honda is telling us to move to CA :) - the door open usually goes away after the car warms up - the door open issue is leading to other problems like drained batteries... as @thscott says SOMEBODY knows what are the right parts to fix this... but I guess they don't want to revive painful memories :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Two issues come to my mind. First with the center roller assembly. Frequently the rollers disintegrate and the door is hard to operate. Had to replace rollers on one side, the other side rollers were good- but the door light frequently went on. Discovered that the hinge was stiff. After freeing and lubing the hinge door closes properly and light stays off.
2nd, on this generation, the lower rear switch assembly causes problems. Some people fix the problem by removing the assembly and cleaning the switches.
Could be

You say you lubed everything in sight. That might not be good enough. Fairly easy to remove the roller assembly. Remove taillight, unscrew body panel from both ends and slide off. With door partly open, support door and unbolt the roller assembly. You can slide it back and inspect it without removing the cable. Check the rollers and see if the hinge moves freely. Mine needed WD40 and some force to get the hinge moving again.
Here's where I document repairing my '99 Odyssey Rollers, I replaced the rollers on my brother's '07 and the process was the same, only the bolts/screws were a bit different.
Really good suggestions - thank you sooo much for documenting everything... will try this when I get time and report back.
 

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My rear passenger slider is sometimes showing 'open' on the dash and then when I drive it turns off. I lubed everything I could reach without removing panels and that worked for a few weeks - but the problem is back again. Before someone suggested changing the actuator - but there are 2 parts called actuator. Which is the right one? A. Actuator assembly door lock or B. Actuator assembly power release?
Here is the diagram for my ody: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?Vin=5FNRL38866B023772&Filter=()&SubCategoryUrl=slide-door-locks-outer-handle&Diagram=&PartNumbers=&PNC=10
View attachment 153634
Probably neither of these is the part you need. I think what you need is 72610-SHJ-A22. (for the RHS door). They are pretty expensive, even used; I'm thinking of doing a little side hustle grabbing used ones from the pick-n-pull junkyard and reselling them...
 

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I believe that is correct - that is #10 in the parts diagram that I cited a few posts above. Unfortunatly that part was shown as available yesterday, but discontinued today. Odd.
 

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Try Big Honda Parts. They had the best price on my sliding door motor.


If you dig deep, you will find that they are associated with a Honda Dealer. The door motor was twice as expensive if ordered through the dealer's parts ordering system vs. buying through the Big Honda Parts website. Stick with that site.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Discussion Starter #12
Two issues come to my mind. First with the center roller assembly. Frequently the rollers disintegrate and the door is hard to operate. Had to replace rollers on one side, the other side rollers were good- but the door light frequently went on. Discovered that the hinge was stiff. After freeing and lubing the hinge door closes properly and light stays off.
Took everything apart and lubed / greased everything- both rollers - even opened and greased the LH and RH lock actuators - and it opens and closes smoothly - but the door open started showing again this am when it got cold last night.

I got to the actuator using this vid as a guide:

2nd, on this generation, the lower rear switch assembly causes problems. Some people fix the problem by removing the assembly and cleaning the switches.
Humm - don't know where those switches are o_O are there instructions somewhere? Anyone know which number it's closest to in this pic?
153733
 

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You most likely need to replace the rear latch module. The part costs about $200. Simply cleaning or lubing usually does not work. The issue is electrical - failed microswitches. This is one of the most common issues on our Odysseys - reported on this forum almost everyday.
 

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There is a video here: "Slide Door" idiot light is on on page 6 post 116 where Earz shows how he replaced one of the failing switches. $20 vs. $200.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Happy update - The car's driver told me tonight that the light goes on when she unplugged the seat belt!!!! After me trying so hard to reproduce the problem!!!

There is a video here: "Slide Door" idiot light is on on page 6 post 116 where Earz shows how he replaced one of the failing switches. $20 vs. $200.
OMG there were 150 posts on that forum!! BUT others related the problem to the seat belt - All I had to do was give it a good deep spray with CRC QD® Electronic Cleaner <$10 at Advance auto and 5 mins later no problem!!! I did it from the back seat with the keys out of the ignition for extra airbag safety. There is a 14 min video from a mechanic doing pretty much what I did here:
I didn't need to do the ODBII part the door open happened as soon as I unplugged the seat belt and it went away after heavy spraying.

Thanks Everybody!!
 

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Interesting. Glad you got it fixed I would not think there would be any correlation between the seat belt and the door operation. Learn something new everyday here.
 
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