Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The rear cable for my passenger sliding door recently broke and is dangling down. I’ve seen several posts in this forum and seen some YouTube videos but as a newbie with car repairs, I’d appreciate some further insights. What are my options? I’m assuming that the door won’t open because the cable that runs to the front is still intact? To convert it to a manual door, I can cut the other cable? I’m not sure if I want to do that or not yet. Would the sensor still complain when the sliding doors switch is On and I’m trying to back up? How would I disable that? Go to the sliding door motor and disconnect it? Or do I have to find fuses somewhere and remove them?

One “fun” side-effect that happened at 2:30 am last night is that the alarm just started going off randomly for no reason. Yeah, my neighbors didn’t appreciate that. I’m guessing it’s related to the broken cable and the door sensor is getting confused about whether it’s open or not? How do I address that (my neighbors thank you in advance)? I saw a few YouTube videos about disconnecting something under the hood but not sure how that would pertain to what’s going on in my situation. Not sure if this matters but I was parked on an incline last night so maybe broken sliding door came ajar a bit.

I’m trying not to go to the dealer and paying $1000+. What else could I do? I’m assuming my motor is still OK but how do I know? It motor is ok, can I just buy new cables and try to wrap them properly around the pulley? I’ve seen a few videos on this as well but I may have a hard time figuring out how to do that part myself.

Thanks for helping me step through this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I just fixed my busted cable ('03 EX-L) two weeks ago using the $50 kit from a seller on ebay (search for seller Thanoszx7r). Worked perfectly and door is like new now. I also replaced the outside roller while I was at it with the Dorman part. The instructions and videos are great and you don't need a lot of tools.

That said, you do have to take the interior trim panels off. Getting them back on takes a bit of patience and cussing. So, the cheapest solution is to simply snip the cables at the door roller and then again as close to the van as possible (4 cuts). You then will have a manual door. If you go this route you should take out the fuse so that motor can't be run with the broken cable piece wound around the spool (you might decide to fix it in the future, no sense letting it tear itself apart).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I just fixed my busted cable ('03 EX-L) two weeks ago using the $50 kit from a seller on ebay (search for seller Thanoszx7r). Worked perfectly and door is like new now. I also replaced the outside roller while I was at it with the Dorman part. The instructions and videos are great and you don't need a lot of tools.

That said, you do have to take the interior trim panels off. Getting them back on takes a bit of patience and cussing. So, the cheapest solution is to simply snip the cables at the door roller and then again as close to the van as possible (4 cuts). You then will have a manual door. If you go this route you should take out the fuse so that motor can't be run with the broken cable piece wound around the spool (you might decide to fix it in the future, no sense letting it tear itself apart).
Thanks for the reply. Can you clarify where the 4 cuts are? Does this video show what I need to do properly:


Also, do you know where I’d look to find the proper fuse for the motor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
The definitive youtube video (IMO) on door repair for this generation of Odyssey is this one by Eric the Car Guy:


You might also find it interesting/useful to read the instructions for changing the cables found here:

http://autocableguy.com/index.php/installation-instructions/

To cut the cables, you should probably remove the outside body panel that covers the roller track (easy - see video). Be careful you don't drop it and chip the paint like I did. You should cut the cables where they go into the van at the front and back of the roller track, and then at each side of the roller bracket on the door. If the cable ends pop out of the roller bracket hang onto them, you might want the nylon bushings on them if you ever put in new cables (see instructions).

Should be the No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. I think that will cut off both door motors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your help. I tried to work on it some today then I realized I’m not going to be able to easily remove the outdoor body panel that covers the roller track because the passenger sliding door is fully closed and there’s a bolt that I can’t get to in order to get that panel off. I was able to remove the rear light in the back and remove the 2 bolts to the panel in the back but there’s one more bolt that I can’t get to currently. Any ideas? I guess I am going to have to open up the interior to get to the roller assembly under the interior paneling? I was hoping to be able to make the door manual but not have to go through all that work. I’m assuming the reason I can’t manually open the door at this point is because the other cable is still intact? And the only way to get at the other cable is open up the interior paneling to get to it?

To stop the motor for the passenger sliding door only, my thought was to pull the No. 5 fuse out on the passenger side near the floor which says “Passenger’s Side Automatic Sliding Door”. See the attached photo. Unfortunately, now when I switch the “Sliding Door” control on and click the Open button for the passenger door, the motor just runs and runs until I click the Close button which stops it from running. Do you know if I have to disable both sliding doors or can I find a way to only disable the motor on the passenger sliding door? Do I have to go to the fuse boxes under the hood and remove the appropriate fuses under there too? There is a 30A fuse in the primary box under the hood labeled Power slide door (see attached). The secondary under-hood fuse box (which I couldn’t find) also says it has a 20 amp power sliding door fuse. I’m so confused on why so many fuses and why they all mean. Thanks for your help.

151263

image.jpg
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Try pulling the No. 9 fuse in the driver's side under dash fuse/relay box. Here's a picture of the schematic from the service manual and it shows No. 9 in the connection from the ignition switch to the RHS door unit. Note that some fuses are different depending on the model year.

With the door switch turned off, I'm guessing you aren't able to yank the door open manually no matter how hard you pull? The cable must be tangled up in the door motor spool unit and jamming the spool. If the spool is able to turn it should still be possible to open the door manually (motor will turn). On my door the cable was all twisted up and wound around the spool after it failed so I have to remove panels before I could get the door open.

If that's really the case then you probably do need to pop the interior panels off to get at it and free the broken cable. Unfortunately there's no way to remove the front bolt on the outer body panel without opening the door.

If you have to take off the interior panels anyway it's probably worth replacing the cables.

151267

151269

151268

151270
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Try pulling the No. 9 fuse in the driver's side under dash fuse/relay box. Here's a picture of the schematic from the service manual and it shows No. 9 in the connection from the ignition switch to the RHS door unit. Note that some fuses are different depending on the model year.

With the door switch turned off, I'm guessing you aren't able to yank the door open manually no matter how hard you pull? The cable must be tangled up in the door motor spool unit and jamming the spool. If the spool is able to turn it should still be possible to open the door manually (motor will turn). On my door the cable was all twisted up and wound around the spool after it failed so I have to remove panels before I could get the door open.

If that's really the case then you probably do need to pop the interior panels off to get at it and free the broken cable. Unfortunately there's no way to remove the front bolt on the outer body panel without opening the door.

If you have to take off the interior panels anyway it's probably worth replacing the cables.

View attachment 151267
View attachment 151269
View attachment 151268
View attachment 151270
Thats correct- with the door switch off I’m unable to yank the RHS door open which means it must be twisted up inside. I’m going to try and remove the interior panels and cut the cables loose to make the door manual for now. I’m not sure that the No. 9 in my 2004 relates to the RHS door. My manual says “Back up lights, instrument lights” for No. 9 on drivers side interior fuse box. Please see attached. Any other ideas as to which fuse to pull to disable the motor on the RHS sliding door?

151346
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I found the table in the service manual - more descriptive than the schematic. Fuse #9 is for a whole bunch of stuff, including "Power sliding door control units." Fuse #5 in the passenger side box is supposed to be for RHS power sliding door unit and the passenger's multiplex control unit.

So, if you pull #5 you'll disable more than just the door, plus it sounds like the door motor still turned anyway when you tried it. Looks like there is no single fuse that disables only the RHS door. Might have to just put some tape on the door switch on the dash :).

151350

151351

151352
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I found the table in the service manual - more descriptive than the schematic. Fuse #9 is for a whole bunch of stuff, including "Power sliding door control units." Fuse #5 in the passenger side box is supposed to be for RHS power sliding door unit and the passenger's multiplex control unit.

So, if you pull #5 you'll disable more than just the door, plus it sounds like the door motor still turned anyway when you tried it. Looks like there is no single fuse that disables only the RHS door. Might have to just put some tape on the door switch on the dash :).

View attachment 151350
View attachment 151351
View attachment 151352
I pulled both No. 5 on the passenger side box and No. 9 on the driver side box and the motor still churns when I press the button on the dash so I think I’ll just tape over it like you suggest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I found the table in the service manual - more descriptive than the schematic. Fuse #9 is for a whole bunch of stuff, including "Power sliding door control units." Fuse #5 in the passenger side box is supposed to be for RHS power sliding door unit and the passenger's multiplex control unit.

So, if you pull #5 you'll disable more than just the door, plus it sounds like the door motor still turned anyway when you tried it. Looks like there is no single fuse that disables only the RHS door. Might have to just put some tape on the door switch on the dash :).

View attachment 151350
View attachment 151351
View attachment 151352
I was able to get the interior paneling pulled off and indeed the cable is badly twisted and wound up inside. I have a few pictures. What’s the best way to do this? Just start cutting away at whatever I can with a wire cutter? I tried pulling out on the pulley thing but it wouldn’t budge. Also, should I just go ahead and disconnect the wires going into the door motor (there’s a brown and gray one). I’m assuming they are both related to the motor but I’m not sure - the brown connector has 2 wires going into the front of the motor. I’m not sure where the wires for the gray connector go.

151376

151377
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I found the table in the service manual - more descriptive than the schematic. Fuse #9 is for a whole bunch of stuff, including "Power sliding door control units." Fuse #5 in the passenger side box is supposed to be for RHS power sliding door unit and the passenger's multiplex control unit.

So, if you pull #5 you'll disable more than just the door, plus it sounds like the door motor still turned anyway when you tried it. Looks like there is no single fuse that disables only the RHS door. Might have to just put some tape on the door switch on the dash :).

View attachment 151350
View attachment 151351
View attachment 151352
Follow up: I was able to get the door freed and it now operates manually. I had to get off the metal plate and pull out the pulley and unwind the wire. It took me a bit to figure out where to make all the cuts to free it. I’m going to just put it back together for now and perhaps venture into replacing the cables at some point. But for now, at least we can get in and out of the van using the RHS door. Thanks for all your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Yep, that's exactly what mine looked like when I took it apart. Sounds like you've got it to where you want it. You could probably leave the brown connector off to disable just the motor. Not sure what the gray ones do. There's a lot of stuff in that corner of the van that isn't door-related so don't want to disable any of that stuff.

The spool comes out if you remove the nut in the center of it (careful you don't drop any pieces, there's a spring on there that makes it pop apart). Easier to do if you also take off the metal face plate that's around it (I irretrievably dropped one screw while doing so).

Going all the way and changing the cables and the roller-hinge part is not too much more effort than you've already gone to....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yep, that's exactly what mine looked like when I took it apart. Sounds like you've got it to where you want it. You could probably leave the brown connector off to disable just the motor. Not sure what the gray ones do. There's a lot of stuff in that corner of the van that isn't door-related so don't want to disable any of that stuff.

The spool comes out if you remove the nut in the center of it (careful you don't drop any pieces, there's a spring on there that makes it pop apart). Easier to do if you also take off the metal face plate that's around it (I irretrievably dropped one screw while doing so).

Going all the way and changing the cables and the roller-hinge part is not too much more effort than you've already gone to....
The kids are having trouble manually opening and closing so I may have to redo pulling the interior panels off and do the full fix to make it automatic again. Lol. Oh well- it should go much faster the second time now that I know how to pull everything apart. I did disconnect the brown connector so now the motor is disabled (I guess that’s why the yellow “Sliding Door” warning light is showing up on the dash now though?) I’ll probably need some help when I go to replace the cables. Can you direct me to where you got the cables and parts you needed? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I used this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2004-...m2ef9d77c4b:g:H2kAAOSwRitc-aia&frcectupt=true

After I'd purchased, the seller offered to send it by regular mail and refunded the shipping cost difference. So, you could ask for that option. The instructions are excellent. You do need to solder on two end pieces using the supplied stainless steel solder so you need a clean soldering iron.

Because you have to take it off anyway, and given its age, it's also worthwhile putting on a new one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-1...orman+924-127&qid=1560094563&s=gateway&sr=8-1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I used this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2004-...m2ef9d77c4b:g:H2kAAOSwRitc-aia&frcectupt=true

After I'd purchased, the seller offered to send it by regular mail and refunded the shipping cost difference. So, you could ask for that option. The instructions are excellent. You do need to solder on two end pieces using the supplied stainless steel solder so you need a clean soldering iron.

Because you have to take it off anyway, and given its age, it's also worthwhile putting on a new one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-1...orman+924-127&qid=1560094563&s=gateway&sr=8-1.
Ok, perfect. Thank you. I think that’s the route I’ll go. And the seller provides instructions as well? Sounds good to me- looks like the seller put a lot of work into coming up with the kit. I’ve never used a soldering iron before- how difficult is that? How easy/difficult did you find the overall process with getting the cables on right? I was going to ask about the hinge...maybe I’ll go ahead and replace that as well as you suggest. I wasn’t able to get the cable pieces out from the hinge- is that because of the rubber part/stopper inside of the hinge? I guess when I prop up the door and remove the hinge, I’ll be able to route the new cable through the new hinge fairly easily?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I'll PM you the instruction .pdf so you can take a look at it. Yes the cable ends come out of the hinge pretty easily once it's off the door. Save the little bushings on them (see instructions).

It's fairly easy to string the new cables in. The front one has to route through a piece that has a "lip" inside it that needs some wiggling to get past. The instructions describe it.

A 35W soldering iron will do it. It's all described in the instructions, but basically you dip the cable end in flux, then gently push it against the hole in the brass cable end while you firmly press the top of the cable end with the iron. After a while, the solder "plug" inside the cable end melts and the cable will slide inside. Remove the iron and let it cool while holding it still. He recommends turning it over and heating again from the other side. I'm not sure if that's necessary but I did it anyway.

After putting it all together I had to play with the tensioner a bit to get it to the correct tension. Once I got it I could see the little marks in the windows and it was good (see video).

Most important is to watch the video a couple times and read the instructions very carefully a few times before doing it. If you take your time and are careful not to miss a step or a part it's pretty smooth.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top