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Discussion Starter #1
Leaving work the other day, I pressed the fob button to open the driver's side sliding door, like I do every day. Instead of the door opening, I heard a Pop! and saw the cable come swinging out of the horizontal slot that the door hinge slides in. Man, that sucked. Now the van thinks the door is open so I have to keep the door switch Off while driving. I'm reluctant to "close" the door with the switch/fob because the door works manually (and quite smoothly. 馃槙) I'm afraid of what the broken cable will do if I run the motor.

I called the dealer just to see what it would cost to have it replaced: $818! It seems that the cable is integral to the motor, so the entire assembly must be replaced.

I think it's time for me to take a look at a few youtube videos and other threads in this forum.

Any advice or quality links would certainly be welcome.
 

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Yes, the entire assembly must be replaced.
There is one video on youtube showing a hacked job with an aircraft cable, but I wouldn't do what that guy did. I do admire his patience and persistence though.

Dealer's quote is about right as the part is around $500. It's not a tough job to replace it, and being on the left side, you don't have to deal with the rear AVAC system. You could do it for 1/3 the cost by buying a used assembly on ebay and replace it yourself. I would rather take on this job than doing the alternator job.

I would also check the mid-roller for worn part and replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I saw that video. I'll grant him the "persistence" label but that's about it. I really wouldn't want him working on my vehicles. He's not not the most gentle mechanic I've seen.

Once I get the panels off, I'll see how far I want to go. I've got an indy mechanic (former Honda dealer tech) that does all the stuff that I don't want to do. Cash keeps the cost down. I'm planning on upgrading to something in the 2000-teens soon, so I gotta fix the cable if I want to get anything decent for the 06.
 

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You would be half way there once the panel is off. The rest is pretty self explanatory. You don't even need to wrestle with the mid-roller first to unhook the 2 cable ends.

Instead, get the sliding door to the open position as you were to take off the mid-roller (about 2/3 open), support the door with a floor jack, and draw an outline around the mid-roller so you know where to re-position it later on if you have to take it off.

Stop here and go to work on the panel.
Once the panel is off, you will want to remove the speaker for easy access to the cable assembly. Then use a needle nose to squeeze the bottom of the white tabs and pop them up to release the slack on the cable. Since your cable is already broken, you won't even need to do that. But you would want to do that for the replacement assembly because it gives you more slack to hook the 2 cable ends to the mid-roller. Be sure both tabs are pushed back down after both cable ends are hooked back to the mid-roller.
 

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A usual problem. One on a driver side is pretty easy to replace. One on a passenger side if you have rear AC is a pain in a ass. I just cut cables and call it a day!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You would be half way there once the panel is off. The rest is pretty self explanatory. You don't even need to wrestle with the mid-roller first to unhook the 2 cable ends.

Instead, get the sliding door to the open position as you were to take off the mid-roller (about 2/3 open), support the door with a floor jack, and draw an outline around the mid-roller so you know where to re-position it later on if you have to take it off.

Stop here and go to work on the panel.
Once the panel is off, you will want to remove the speaker for easy access to the cable assembly. Then use a needle nose to squeeze the bottom of the white tabs and pop them up to release the slack on the cable. Since your cable is already broken, you won't even need to do that. But you would want to do that for the replacement assembly because it gives you more slack to hook the 2 cable ends to the mid-roller. Be sure both tabs are pushed back down after both cable ends are hooked back to the mid-roller.
Thanks. I can't work on it until a couple of weeks from now, but I'll keep your tips in mind.

Would you trust a used ebay motor for roughly $180 or should I go new for $320ish?
 

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There are lots of fake OEM products on Ebay and Amazon so I would be hesitant of cheap new OEM especially if sellers has tons of them. If a used one is OEM, I would rather go cheap and have a peace of mind (go for a used one). Who sell fake used products!

Let sellers know that if it is not OEM for fake, you will return them and report it to Ebay/Amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
There are lots of fake OEM products on Ebay and Amazon so I would be hesitant of cheap new OEM especially if sellers has tons of them.
Just to be clear, the new ones that I mentioned were found by doing a Google search for 72050-SHJ-A21 and then clicking the Compare Prices button on the right hand side of the results page. There's about 20 vendors, many of them Honda Dealers and the prices average $331 with shipping.

One example is Jim White Honda, a Honda dealer in Ohio. Another is Gary Yeomans Honda in Florida. So unless these sellers are faking an entire "dealer website" to sell counterfeit parts, I have to assume that the parts are genuine OEM.

However, I did notice something strange that I'm looking into. The Gary Yeomans Honda part in that list is selling for $305.21 before shipping. When you click "Visit site" the seller is Big Honda Parts but the physical address is the same as the Gary Yeomans Honda dealership address. OK, so it's the same place. Here's the kicker: If you search for that same part number via the Gary Yeomans Honda "Parts & Service" link on the dealership website, the part is listed for $610.41, a penny short of double the Big Honda Parts price.

I called the dealership's parts department and the nice lady said that she would have the parts manager call me back. She sure couldn't explain the huge price difference. I'll let you know what I hear.

Update:

Gary Yeomans Honda just left me a voicemail. Apparently the prices I saw were correct. $305 on-line, $610 in-store. Same new part, in stock. Price is based simply on how you order it. Holy crap!
 

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That's quite the difference in price. I wonder if they get you on shipping. I replaced the motor/cable assembly on the passenger side of my van from one being parted out in a CL ad. It wasn't tough at all to swap in my opinion and mine had other issues to go with it as the former owner drove into a post with the door open. As for doing the cable swap, I'd probably try it but not the way that guy did it. :D
 

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I cut the cables on both sides in my '07 and use the doors manually. I like it much better that way, but my youngest is 16 YO. They operate very smoothly and with minimal force in manual mode. I'm not much for automatic doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's quite the difference in price. I wonder if they get you on shipping.
As I stated in my previous post: "the prices average $331 with shipping"

The shipping on the $305 assembly from Yoemans Honda is $17.40 making it one of the cheapest on that list.

I guess when you're screwing your in-store customers by charging $610 for the same part, you can go easy on the shipping costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have a middle-of-the-job question:

The door kept getting tangled in the loose cables, so I took the panels off today, both to get a look at the innards and to get myself started. With the panels off and the cables cut to allow the door to move freely, I have no choice but to order the motor. It's certainly not going back together until the door is working. I'll swap out the middle roller while I'm at it.

I cut the cables at the roller, took the face plate off of the motor and pulled the door close cable out. The door open cable had snapped at the motor, so it was no longer present behind the face plate. Now the door slides freely.

That said, I have an issue that I hope you'll all tell me will clear itself up once the new motor is in. Even with the sliding door closed, the "door open" steady tone alarm comes on if I put the van in gear with the door switch on. The "door open" indicator on the dash does not illuminate, so the van obviously knows that the door is closed. Note: This has been happening ever since the cable broke. It didn't just start today now the the motor is spinning around with no cables attached. I was hoping that isolating the motor and letting it find "home" would eliminate the tone, but it hasn't.

Will the tone stop once the new motor is in or do I have another problem to chase?

Thanks!
 

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Turn off the sliding door switch on the left side of your steering wheel, and it should take care of the alarm for now. The alarm should stop when a replacement motor assembly is put back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Turn off the sliding door switch on the left side of your steering wheel, and it should take care of the alarm for now.

The alarm should stop when a replacement motor assembly is put back.
Um, yeah, I've had the van for close to 10 years. I know how to silence the alarm. :)

The question really was just whether or not it would stop once the repair was compete. Thanks for the assurance.

Parts have been ordered.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This post is just to close this thread out in case someone finds it via a search...

I replaced the left side sliding door motor and all is well in Odyville again. :giggle:

To recap:

The dealer wanted $818 to replace the motor. I was told that it wouldn't be any cheaper if I R&R'd all the interior panels off myself. I seriously doubt that if I had actually done that and brought it in with no panels they would have charged me the full price. They can't charge me for labor that they didn't perform.

I ordered the motor (72050-SHJ-A21) from Big Honda Parts ( https://parts.bighonda.com/ ) $305. (See Response #9 of this thread for more info on pricing)

I also replaced the center roller (72561-SHJ-A21, $52) which the cables attach to. If I didn't replace that roller while I had it out, it probably would have failed 15 minutes after I put it back in. The nylon rollers were pretty loose, so I'm glad I the part on hand.

Total parts with shipping: $375

I used the following video as the instructions, which is for the right side motor, but for the most part the procedure is the same. The major difference is that you don't need to deal with any AC stuff on the left side.The only other difference is that the motor control module is not in the way on the left side and doesn't need to be removed, just unplugged.


Lots of people use a floor jack to support the door when changing the roller. Eric O. uses pieces of wood as cribbing which actually makes more sense. No large jack to get in the way while providing a flat surface to move the door on if you need to (and you will). I did something very similar using - wait for it - a large box of kitty litter and a 12" x 12" piece of 3/4 plywood. No obstacles, solid support and lots of room to move the door around.

So I saved $443 with this DIY, maybe more if the dealer added anything on for the roller assembly.

Thanks for all the advice.
 

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Great job! I wish I could have gotten that deal on the motor assembly years ago. My little kids are animals and we've snapped the cable on our 04 as well as the 06. Each time the assembly was indeed that expensive no matter where I looked so I did repair it myself with steel cable from home depot. The 06 is still rocking the same steel cable.. and I recently just replaced the door hinge (for the second time) Kids dropoff in the morning makes a lot of use of that passenger side slider.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
so I did repair it myself with steel cable from home depot. The 06 is still rocking the same steel cable..
I've heard of others repairing the cable, but I don't see how. I guess it must depend on which cable broke and where it broke. My "pull-it-open" cable broke inside the motor housing, right at the spool. How would you repair/replace that cable? There was nothing to connect a new cable to. Besides, any connector would prevent the cable from winding up on the spool.

From what I saw, there are very few places (none?) where a repair connector wouldn't prevent the door from operating.

Where did yours break and how did you fix it?

Kids dropoff in the morning makes a lot of use of that passenger side slider.
...and one adult with a laptop bag makes a lot of use of that driver side slider. 馃榾
 
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