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Sliding door issues

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Hello, I have a 2007 Odyssey, love the van, but now having issues with the sliding doors. I have power sliding doors, but not back hatch door. Something is draining my battery and when I jump start the van, the power doors won't work. I have done the fuse thing many times and it doesn't work. I have switched out the dash door switch, again nothing. After a few hours, my drivers left side door will start to work again, but the right side won't work. When the left side works, I switched out the dash switch again ,but the same thing, right side won't work. Something is killing my battery every night, as every morning I have to jump start the vehicle. Anyone else have this issue? I also get the warning buzzer when I put the van in gear, but I read the sensors could be dirty. Any one with any idea what's going on? Thanks
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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Probably a rear latch issue. Very common.
 

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What do you mean by this? I don't have a power latch, it's a manual open one, it always opens and closes with no issues? If it is the latch, what is the issue? Thanks
The rear latch in the sliding door. Do some searching on this forum, this is a common issue with nothing new about it.
 

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Your issue is very common. Bad rear latch. you can either try cleaning it or replacing the internal micro switches, or installing a new latch ($200)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Your issue is very common. Bad rear latch. you can either try cleaning it or replacing the internal micro switches, or installing a new latch ($200)
I have replaced both. My biggest concern is why one door works, and the other doesn't, and when something drains the battery and I have to jump start the vehicle, it's days before I get power back to one door only. Thanks for the info.
 

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I have replaced both. My biggest concern is why one door works, and the other doesn't, and when something drains the battery and I have to jump start the vehicle, it's days before I get power back to one door only. Thanks for the info.
Replaced with what? A brand new one or a junkyard one?

Door issues + parasitic draw means there is still an issue there.
 

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Based on what you've stated, you've replaced a dash door switch, twice. You've also replaced both rear latches on both doors and the power motor.

Would you like to know what's actually wrong, rather than throwing more parts at the issue? If so. you need to be able to see what the van sees. A bi-directional scan tool can tell you what each switch and sensor is seeing, in real time. A few years back I bought a Foxwell NT510 Elite for $180 and was able to test each function and pin down my real issue and repair it, rather than just guessing at it or buying random parts hoping they'd work. I'm sure there are others that will do the same, but that's the one I bought. (I'm not affiliated with the company nor do I gain anything from saying this. I just know it helped me so I hope it can help you.)

You have sliding door and battery issues and they could be related. If I had your van and my 2-way scan tool I'd plug it into the OBD port (no removing panels or parts yet). Assuming I scanned and found no error codes, I'd then operate every single switch and sensor the tool showed on the list. Your dash switch has 1) on, 2) off, 3) left door open, 4) left door close, 5) right door open, and 6) right door close. When you move any of those, the scan tool would show what the Ody saw on the other end. Assuming they were all good, we'd believe the switch to be good and wouldn't replace it. Repeat that for every other switch and handle.

Based only on symptoms, it's possible the van thinks the door is still open, so it's buzzing when you put it in gear. My scan tool would tell you whether than van saw it as open or closed. You see it in real time. Then you'd know that was the issue, or maybe not. Of course there is a chance there's some chafed wire somewhere that's causing an intermittent issue. But you won't likely fix that by firing the parts cannon and replacing switches and sensors based on what online folks think.

Again, I'm not affiliated with Foxwell. They and/or others may have more updated/better stuff out now. I just know folks who have spent $1,500+ chasing after door issues by replacing a bunch of parts and hoping they'd fix the issue. And I know I was able to use my scan tool to check every single switch and sensor in the entire door system and rule them all out, therefore NOT ripping the van apart to add unneeded new parts. And when I was done, I still have the tool which I used for numerous other repairs. My dad would have said I'm hurting the economy. But I just received college tuition bills for two kids. If it didn't go there my wife would have spent it!

Bottom line: I recommend pinning down the actual problem then fixing just that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Based on what you've stated, you've replaced a dash door switch, twice. You've also replaced both rear latches on both doors and the power motor.

Would you like to know what's actually wrong, rather than throwing more parts at the issue? If so. you need to be able to see what the van sees. A bi-directional scan tool can tell you what each switch and sensor is seeing, in real time. A few years back I bought a Foxwell NT510 Elite for $180 and was able to test each function and pin down my real issue and repair it, rather than just guessing at it or buying random parts hoping they'd work. I'm sure there are others that will do the same, but that's the one I bought. (I'm not affiliated with the company nor do I gain anything from saying this. I just know it helped me so I hope it can help you.)

You have sliding door and battery issues and they could be related. If I had your van and my 2-way scan tool I'd plug it into the OBD port (no removing panels or parts yet). Assuming I scanned and found no error codes, I'd then operate every single switch and sensor the tool showed on the list. Your dash switch has 1) on, 2) off, 3) left door open, 4) left door close, 5) right door open, and 6) right door close. When you move any of those, the scan tool would show what the Ody saw on the other end. Assuming they were all good, we'd believe the switch to be good and wouldn't replace it. Repeat that for every other switch and handle.

Based only on symptoms, it's possible the van thinks the door is still open, so it's buzzing when you put it in gear. My scan tool would tell you whether than van saw it as open or closed. You see it in real time. Then you'd know that was the issue, or maybe not. Of course there is a chance there's some chafed wire somewhere that's causing an intermittent issue. But you won't likely fix that by firing the parts cannon and replacing switches and sensors based on what online folks think.

Again, I'm not affiliated with Foxwell. They and/or others may have more updated/better stuff out now. I just know folks who have spent $1,500+ chasing after door issues by replacing a bunch of parts and hoping they'd fix the issue. And I know I was able to use my scan tool to check every single switch and sensor in the entire door system and rule them all out, therefore NOT ripping the van apart to add unneeded new parts. And when I was done, I still have the tool which I used for numerous other repairs. My dad would have said I'm hurting the economy. But I just received college tuition bills for two kids. If it didn't go there my wife would have spent it!

Bottom line: I recommend pinning down the actual problem then fixing just that.
I live up here in Canada, and priced the Foxwell NT510 Elite, it is almost 3 times that here...LOL. What you wrote makes sense, now just got to find a garage who has one of these readers and see where is the issue. Thank you so much for the information.
 

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I dug around Amazon.ca some hoping to find something close like a model above or below but for whatever reason, the Honda one was $385, rather than $282 like others. In Texas it's $199.98.

Out of curiosity I went straight to the Foxwell site and clicked on the NT530 which says it's an upgraded NT510 Elite. It said $149 (probably USD) and I plugged in a random Vancouver address and it said free shipping.

I'm sure there are other companies that make bi-directional scan tools that do this and more. I researched then back when I bought mine but haven't compared them since then. I actually bought a nicer multimeter also because I was prepping to rip off door panels and check every switch and sensor the way the service manual says, with a meter. Then I stumbled across someone else who mentioned scan tools.
 

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I just plugged in mine to see what readings I get on the electric sliding door function.

1. Right Power Slide Door Open Switch
2. Right Power Slide Door Close Switch
3. Left Power Slide Door Open Switch
4. Left Power Slide Door Close Switch
5. Right Remote Control Switch 1
6. Right Remote Control Switch 2
7. Left Remote Control Switch 1
8. Left Remote Control Switch 2
9. Right Remote Control Switch 3
10. Left Remote Control Switch 3
11. Transmission Range Switch P Position
12. Right Power Slide Door Main Switch
13. Left Rear Door (Left Sliding Door) Lock Knob Switch (LOCK)
14. Tailgate Knob Switch (UNLOCK)
15. Right Power Slide Door Half Latch Switch
16. Right Power Slide Door Full Latch Switch
17. Left Power Slide Door Main Switch
18. Left Power Slide Door Half Latch Switch
19. Right Power Slide Door Ratchet Switch
20. Right Power Slide Door Base Position (Neutral 1) Switch
21. Left Power Slide Door Full Latch Switch
22. Left Power Slide Door Ratchet Switch
23. Fuel Fill Door Switch
24. Right Ignition 1 Switch
25. Right Power Slide Door Window Switch
26. Left Power Slide Door Base Position (Neutral 1) Switch
27. Left Ignition 1 Switch
28. Left Power Slide Door Window Switch
29. Right Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 1
30. Left Rear Door (Left Sliding Door) Lock Command
31. Left Rear Door (Left Sliding Door) Unlock Command
32. Right Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 2
33. Right Power Slide Door Pinch Sensor
34. Left Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 1
35. Left Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 2
36. Left Power Slide Door Pinch Sensor
37. Right Power Slide Motor Command
38. Right Power Slide Motor Magnetic Clutch Command
39. Right Power Slide Door Release Actuator Command
40. Right Power Slide Door Closer Motor Command
41. Left Power Slide Motor Command
42. Left Power Slide Motor Magnetic Clutch Command
43. Left Power Slide Door Release Actuator Command
44. Left Power Slide Door Closer Motor Command

Each and every one of those plays a role in the door doing it's job and if the computer gets a bad signal it can abort and stop working for safety reasons. Now you probably see why I'm a fan of a device that can check all those in real time without having to remove any panels or wires.

Idea: disconnect the battery cables, clean everything and put them back on.
1. Once upon a time I had a "dead battery" because my 03 Ody wouldn't start. I charged it and the charger said 100%. It started a few times but then didn't. Turns out it was a battery cable issue.
2. Fast forward to my 07 Ody door issues that prompted me to buy the scan tool. Turned out to be some connector corrosion that wasn't even visible. As soon as I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected everything worked fine. That battery had a good enough connection to start a cold engine, but not a good enough connection for a sliding door, thanks to the computer protecting it.
3. It may not do anything, but the price is right and you can rule it out as an issue.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just plugged in mine to see what readings I get on the electric sliding door function.

1. Right Power Slide Door Open Switch
2. Right Power Slide Door Close Switch
3. Left Power Slide Door Open Switch
4. Left Power Slide Door Close Switch
5. Right Remote Control Switch 1
6. Right Remote Control Switch 2
7. Left Remote Control Switch 1
8. Left Remote Control Switch 2
9. Right Remote Control Switch 3
10. Left Remote Control Switch 3
11. Transmission Range Switch P Position
12. Right Power Slide Door Main Switch
13. Left Rear Door (Left Sliding Door) Lock Knob Switch (LOCK)
14. Tailgate Knob Switch (UNLOCK)
15. Right Power Slide Door Half Latch Switch
16. Right Power Slide Door Full Latch Switch
17. Left Power Slide Door Main Switch
18. Left Power Slide Door Half Latch Switch
19. Right Power Slide Door Ratchet Switch
20. Right Power Slide Door Base Position (Neutral 1) Switch
21. Left Power Slide Door Full Latch Switch
22. Left Power Slide Door Ratchet Switch
23. Fuel Fill Door Switch
24. Right Ignition 1 Switch
25. Right Power Slide Door Window Switch
26. Left Power Slide Door Base Position (Neutral 1) Switch
27. Left Ignition 1 Switch
28. Left Power Slide Door Window Switch
29. Right Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 1
30. Left Rear Door (Left Sliding Door) Lock Command
31. Left Rear Door (Left Sliding Door) Unlock Command
32. Right Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 2
33. Right Power Slide Door Pinch Sensor
34. Left Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 1
35. Left Power Slide Door Pulser Sensor 2
36. Left Power Slide Door Pinch Sensor
37. Right Power Slide Motor Command
38. Right Power Slide Motor Magnetic Clutch Command
39. Right Power Slide Door Release Actuator Command
40. Right Power Slide Door Closer Motor Command
41. Left Power Slide Motor Command
42. Left Power Slide Motor Magnetic Clutch Command
43. Left Power Slide Door Release Actuator Command
44. Left Power Slide Door Closer Motor Command

Each and every one of those plays a role in the door doing it's job and if the computer gets a bad signal it can abort and stop working for safety reasons. Now you probably see why I'm a fan of a device that can check all those in real time without having to remove any panels or wires.

Idea: disconnect the battery cables, clean everything and put them back on.
1. Once upon a time I had a "dead battery" because my 03 Ody wouldn't start. I charged it and the charger said 100%. It started a few times but then didn't. Turns out it was a battery cable issue.
2. Fast forward to my 07 Ody door issues that prompted me to buy the scan tool. Turned out to be some connector corrosion that wasn't even visible. As soon as I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected everything worked fine. That battery had a good enough connection to start a cold engine, but not a good enough connection for a sliding door, thanks to the computer protecting it.
3. It may not do anything, but the price is right and you can rule it out as an issue.
Thanks for posting all this, makes me want to purchase that reader more.
I am going to check my battery cables, I did have the battery replaced yesterday, but never really looked at cables. You are right, a small bit of corrosion can hinder a good connection. Thanks again for all your info and help.
 

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I'm sure once they put in the new battery that would have resolved any connection issues. Here's the guide I stumbled across last year that helped me. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10204282-9999.pdf
That's a great guide....I'm currently trying to troubleshoot the driver's side sliding door. I have a 2007 Odyssey Touring model and if I reset the door using the procedure with the #7 fuse, it will clear the code then work exactly one time before it displays the left sliding door message on the dash. I have swapped out the power slide door control unit right to left and it doesn't matter so I'm thinking there must be another sensor or module that is tripping that shuts down the left sliding door only. The right side works fine all the time. I was thinking about buying the BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool since it gives you access to the BCM and I can use it with my phone (and it's the only $100 or less scan tool that I found so far that gives me access to the BCM). Is my sliding door issue related to what Joey3098 is describing with his sliding doors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's a great guide....I'm currently trying to troubleshoot the driver's side sliding door. I have a 2007 Odyssey Touring model and if I reset the door using the procedure with the #7 fuse, it will clear the code then work exactly one time before it displays the left sliding door message on the dash. I have swapped out the power slide door control unit right to left and it doesn't matter so I'm thinking there must be another sensor or module that is tripping that shuts down the left sliding door only. The right side works fine all the time. I was thinking about buying the BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool since it gives you access to the BCM and I can use it with my phone (and it's the only $100 or less scan tool that I found so far that gives me access to the BCM). Is my sliding door issue related to what Joey3098 is describing with his sliding doors?
It sounds like we have the same issues, only different door. My issue is always the right side door, I cannot get any power to that side at all. I just swapped out the battery for a new one Monday past, and had no issues starting ( you can read all about dead battery above) but today out of the blue, van wouldn't start, got another boost, lost power to left door, but garage found out my positive cable to the starting motor was held together by two strands by the starting motor. Had both cables replaced just to insure I had two solid cables coming off the battery. Van started right away. Then they hooked up the van to the scanner, ran through the checklist and it shows no power in any sliding door. Got power to door locks and window, but not to motor that opens and closes either door. These were replaced in April and July this year on each side. So now I am back to square one, no power in any door. I will see tomorrow morning if I can start the van, if it doesn't, I will disconnect the left door first, then wait till the next day to see if van starts, then do right side. My question is why can't I get power to right door at all, and why when I have a dead battery and need a boost, I lose power to the left side. It does come back, sometimes within the hour, but sometimes it takes a few days till it starts working again. What is this mystery that's causing this? It's been ongoing now for about 5 months. Hope you have better luck than I am having. Love my van BTW.
 

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It sounds like we have the same issues, only different door. My issue is always the right side door, I cannot get any power to that side at all. I just swapped out the battery for a new one Monday past, and had no issues starting ( you can read all about dead battery above) but today out of the blue, van wouldn't start, got another boost, lost power to left door, but garage found out my positive cable to the starting motor was held together by two strands by the starting motor. Had both cables replaced just to insure I had two solid cables coming off the battery. Van started right away. Then they hooked up the van to the scanner, ran through the checklist and it shows no power in any sliding door. Got power to door locks and window, but not to motor that opens and closes either door. These were replaced in April and July this year on each side. So now I am back to square one, no power in any door. I will see tomorrow morning if I can start the van, if it doesn't, I will disconnect the left door first, then wait till the next day to see if van starts, then do right side. My question is why can't I get power to right door at all, and why when I have a dead battery and need a boost, I lose power to the left side. It does come back, sometimes within the hour, but sometimes it takes a few days till it starts working again. What is this mystery that's causing this? It's been ongoing now for about 5 months. Hope you have better luck than I am having. Love my van BTW.
I did experience a vampiric drain but I fixed it by lubricating up the rear latch on my van -- I know you replaced yours so that's not an issue any longer but I thought I would mention that here just in case someone is having the same battery drain and can't figure it out. The latch just couldn't shut all the way so I helped it along. I think your issue is with the motor itself in the door (Honda eStore) it's part #4 in the diagram, I'm not an expert and am still learning but that is the main part that gets juice from the battery to make the door work so it's worth a look. I went ahead and just bought the BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool off Amazon so I'll get to see if it shows me that list dntboles shows from the BCM from his scan tool. I'll post a response here on if I finally resolve my issue. I too love my van with 226k miles-- I like driving it more than my 2017 Ford Explorer and my 2021 Hyundai Palisade. It's just such a smooth ride and you can see everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did experience a vampiric drain but I fixed it by lubricating up the rear latch on my van -- I know you replaced yours so that's not an issue any longer but I thought I would mention that here just in case someone is having the same battery drain and can't figure it out. The latch just couldn't shut all the way so I helped it along. I think your issue is with the motor itself in the door (Honda eStore) it's part #4 in the diagram, I'm not an expert and am still learning but that is the main part that gets juice from the battery to make the door work so it's worth a look. I went ahead and just bought the BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool off Amazon so I'll get to see if it shows me that list dntboles shows from the BCM from his scan tool. I'll post a response here on if I finally resolve my issue. I too love my van with 226k miles-- I like driving it more than my 2017 Ford Explorer and my 2021 Hyundai Palisade. It's just such a smooth ride and you can see everything.
My van is a US model as well, even though I live in Canada, so mine also just hit 230,000 plus and still going good. My wife has a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe, my son has a 2015 Honda Civic, but we all enjoy going for drives in the van. I wouldn't hesitate to leave where I am living, and drive, say, to Florida with no worries, other than having to manually open the doors..lol. Looking forward to hearing more from you if you find something else to note. Thanks again.
 

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If the Slide Door light is on, there's a code or codes for the problem. If you don't have a bi-directional scanner, there's a 'foil trick' that you can search for to get the code to blink out. (Or somebody can post a link to the video to blink out the codes).
 
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