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Discussion Starter #1
been struggling now for a long time with this but looking for advice.
2010 touring driver side PSD door snapped

I bought a new motor and installed it as per the manual (torqued etc.). Part of the manual instructions is to lock in the sliding door wire via 2 white plastic tabs. Completed that. Now I had a door that was open, but a fully installed motor.

Only thing to do was test it out. I watched a few videos that have said, there is no reset procedure for the doors, so I turned on the power to the doors and hit the 'close' button.

The door came almost into the close position, got stuck and rolled back to the open position.

I then turned off the power to the door switch and closed the door manually, the rear latch pulled it in perfectly fine.

Then I turned on the power and hit the switch, the rear latch tried to pop the door out but couldn't and now the door is stuck!

I have done the following: removed fuse 7 from driver side - still nothing
removed the battery negative overnight and still nothing
when I press the button, I don't hear any beeps, sounds or anything.
I don't have any codes pertaining to the door either (use a jumper cable)

I managed to pull the interior door panel off while the door was shut. I'm trying to figure out how to manually unlatch the door with my hand.

Debating if I should try to removed the bolts holding the rear latch assembly in.
Maybe if I somehow apply power to the rear latch using a battery pack (no idea which plug pins I would need to jump)
Maybe if I create slack in the power sliding door cables?

anybody been in this position or know what to do??
 

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Separate from your motor/cable issue which you replaced, I assume you know that the two most common issues with the sliding doors on our Odysseys is a bad center roller and a failed rear latch module. Perhaps one or both of these issues is your problem?
 

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Have you tried to reset the PSD's with this procedure? (copied from another post here on this forum)

PSD reset procedure:

(1) Make sure main switch for doors is in OFF position. Remove following fuses one by one and leave it out for at least 30 second (I waited for minute).

  • Driver side fuse box (Fuse no. 7 (7.5A) - Back up)
  • Passenger side Fuse box (Fuse no. 7 (7.5A) - Instrument pannel)
  • Primary under the hood Fuse box (Fuse no. 7 (7.5A) - Back up)
  • Primary under the hood fuse box (Fuse no. 15 (40A) - Back up, Acc)
(2) Install all fuses in to original location. Make sure main switch for doors is in OFF positon and make sure the ignition swithc is in LOCK "0" position.

(3) Manually open the sliding doors fully. (Both)

(4) Turn on the ignition switch to ON "II" position while leaving both doors fully open.

(5) Turn on the main switch for power sliding doors on the dash board.

(6) Push and hold close side of the "Master Power door" switch (switch for L & R doors under main power switch on dash board) until door is fully closed. follow the same process for other slide door.

(7) Now you all set. perform the test run to open and close both doors using switch, handle and remote..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Separate from your motor/cable issue which you replaced, I assume you know that the two most common issues with the sliding doors on our Odysseys is a bad center roller and a failed rear latch module. Perhaps one or both of these issues is your problem?
the bad center roller i'm aware of...and both rollers were changed by the dealer during a safety inspection 2 years ago (20,000km ago) when I purchased the van.

I'm leaning towards the failed rear latch, and I just recently worked on the passenger side door....and I will do my driver side door, except I have no idea how to get the door opened :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you tried to reset the PSD's with this procedure? (copied from another post here on this forum)

PSD reset procedure:

(1) Make sure main switch for doors is in OFF position. Remove following fuses one by one and leave it out for at least 30 second (I waited for minute).


  • Driver side fuse box (Fuse no. 7 (7.5A) - Back up)
  • Passenger side Fuse box (Fuse no. 7 (7.5A) - Instrument pannel)
  • Primary under the hood Fuse box (Fuse no. 7 (7.5A) - Back up)
  • Primary under the hood fuse box (Fuse no. 15 (40A) - Back up, Acc)
(2) Install all fuses in to original location. Make sure main switch for doors is in OFF positon and make sure the ignition swithc is in LOCK "0" position.

(3) Manually open the sliding doors fully. (Both)

(4) Turn on the ignition switch to ON "II" position while leaving both doors fully open.

(5) Turn on the main switch for power sliding doors on the dash board.

(6) Push and hold close side of the "Master Power door" switch (switch for L & R doors under main power switch on dash board) until door is fully closed. follow the same process for other slide door.

(7) Now you all set. perform the test run to open and close both doors using switch, handle and remote..
i did this before...and i did this again right now....nothing happens...
i can't even open the driver side door to follow the steps properly.
when I press the button...NOTHING happens...not even a noise/humm or anything...

what's the order it should do? motor should run, the latch should pop?
I can't even pull the door open manually, it feels welded shut!
 

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I believe the release actuator is supposed to release the latches, then the motor runs.

This is sounding quite like a rear latch issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've followed the cable from the exterior handle to the rear latch...the cable is moving and i've snuck my hand into the rear latch assembly and i can manually move the lever that the cable is connected to...but it's still unlatching the door...

with 4 kids...this is the worst thing possibly right now :(
 

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From the inside of the van- can you push the back side of the door out as you pull the handle to open the door?

re-reading I notice:
....and I will do my driver side door, except I have no idea how to get the door opened :(
Your fuel door interlock is the issue here!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
From the inside of the van- can you push the back side of the door out as you pull the handle to open the door?

re-reading I notice:

Your fuel door interlock is the issue here!
no i've tried pushing my whole body against the door while my wife was holding the handle open from outside.

fuel door interlock!!?!?!?
 

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There is a plunger switch inside the fuel door that prevents the driver’s sliding door from operating if the fuel door is open. This switch often fails which would prevent the door from operating. This might be your issue on that door.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i went out and used the fuel door lever...the fuel door opens and closes fine....

i'll have to look into this plunger...i have the whole driver side panel open from the taillight all the way to the door...gotta do some digging
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so i just started reading about fuel door interlock....it says the door will never unlock...my door locks and unlocks perfectly fine...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
okay i've confirmed in my mind it isn't the fuel door lock...i opened the fuel door...pressed the plunger with my finger and i could hear the door lock opening and closing...

so i'm back to how the hell do i open this door
 

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Is the rubber knob still on the fuel door to push the plunger?
Your finger could make it unlock- the knob on the door needs to do the same!
 
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Discussion Starter #16
okay so here goes...i wasn't super frustrated with this, but i did try for about 30 mins every day to figure this out...and i figured it out yesterday!

I went out and had my kids pull the handle from outside. The handle is attached to 3 different cables. 2 of the cables go towards the rear latch assembly.

I followed both of them and was only successful at reaching the end point of just one...I was able to manually flip the switch around etc in the rear latch, but nothing was happening.

Then i followed the 3rd cable, it went towards the bottom of the door (almost under the handle)...I think this is the lock actuator. When the handle was being pulled, things were moving. One 'latch' looked like i didn't move all the way, so i pushed it up with my finger and the door unlatched.

I sprayed lithium grease all over the center spring thing and now the door works perfectly, my door motor works perfectly too! except sometimes I open it...once it opens up....it gives me 3 beeps.

Lets' see if these pics work:

You can't see the 3 cables from the handle as the white plastic is covering them, but that mechanism at the bottom was the culprit

odyssey lock 3.jpg



this is the 'latch' is question:
odyssey lock.jpg





When the handle was pulled, this is as far as the 'latch' would go:

odyssey lock 1.jpg



then i manually pushed up even further and the door unlatched without any issues:

odyssey lock 2.jpg
 

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Have u replaced the door actuator in the past?
 

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What is this part called? I assume it's not the "famous" rear door latch module that often fails. Is it the lock actuator?
 
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