Before tearing into my 2012 Ody to figure out what's broke, I wanted to see if my symptoms pointed to a specific problem. My driver's side sliding door begins to open then stops when the center trolley is almost around the bend (door about 3-4 inches open), then it stops and gives the 3 beeps. It does this when using remote, door buttons or outside handle. Door will not close other than manually after this. My first thought was a likely problem with the wheels on one of the trolleys, but they all appear to be rolling and I haven't been able to locate any obstructions on the top, middle or bottom tracks. I cleaned and greased them all to no avail. Cable appears to be in good shape, also. Does anybody have an idea what may be causing this?
touchngo76
This does seem to sound like a center roller issue. Have you taken off the track cover panel to get a better look at what's going on? How does the door feel in manual mode?
Short answer: the symptoms don't point to a single specific problem. Multiple folks have had similar issues and tried all kinds of things; some worked... some didn't.
Three beeps tone applies during the following conditions:
It's a broad range of things. I'm not trying to bring you down, but there are a lot of variables in all the switches and sensors. The manual I can access involves removing interior and door panels then using a multimeter to check lots of connectors.
Personally, when I had a door issue, I bought a Foxwell NT510 Elite for approx $180. I was then able to see the readings in real time. Rather than removing a door switch, like the manual recommended, I could just press the buttons and see the signal to verify it worked then move on. I was able to test all the different functions, including ones I didn't even know existed, then pin it all down to 1) a switch/sensor not reading properly and 2) bad voltage. I didn't have to tear into anything or buy any parts. Here's what I bought: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08B5RMFBG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_EKNZM07660T8W27SC8PS
Three beeps tone applies during the following conditions:
- When power sliding door keyless open mode has been customized to "WHEN UNLOCKED" (without multi-information display)
- Trap detection operation
- Emergency stop operation
- Power slide door open operation is requested from the remote transmitter or power sliding door switch on the dashboard while the door is locked.
- Power slide door close operation is requested while the touch sensor is ON.
- Power slide door open operation is requested while the fuel fill door is open.
- Door alignment
- Power sliding door control unit
- CESS articulating unit
- Power sliding door open/close switch
- Keyless transmitter and receiver
- Power door switches 1, 2 and 3
- Transmission range switch
- Output shaft speed sensor
- Gauge control unit
- MICU
- PCM
- VSA modulator control unit
- Fuel fill door switch
It's a broad range of things. I'm not trying to bring you down, but there are a lot of variables in all the switches and sensors. The manual I can access involves removing interior and door panels then using a multimeter to check lots of connectors.
Personally, when I had a door issue, I bought a Foxwell NT510 Elite for approx $180. I was then able to see the readings in real time. Rather than removing a door switch, like the manual recommended, I could just press the buttons and see the signal to verify it worked then move on. I was able to test all the different functions, including ones I didn't even know existed, then pin it all down to 1) a switch/sensor not reading properly and 2) bad voltage. I didn't have to tear into anything or buy any parts. Here's what I bought: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08B5RMFBG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_EKNZM07660T8W27SC8PS
That list of things I posted to check came from Chilton's based on the symptom of door stops when opening.
B2037 is Left Power Sliding Door Ratchet Switch Circuit Open
The official procedures then tell you to use a Honda Diagnostic System. (The code reader I mentioned above would do a similar thing, for the next steps.)
- (Looking at the real-time data) Check the ON/OFF information of the LEFT POWER SLIDE DOOR RATCHET SWITCH in the DATA LIST.
If it's showing ON then they say to replace the left power sliding door control unit.
If it's off, then
- Disconnect left power sliding door control unit connector A (12P).
- Disconnect left power sliding door rear latch connector B (6P).
- Check for continuity between left power sliding door control unit connector A (12P) terminal No. 12 and left power sliding door rear latch connector B (6P) terminal No. 6.
![161114]( "161114")
If there is continuity, replace the left power sliding door rear latch.
If no, there's an open or high resistance in the wire.
------------------------------
B18BE = Blind Spot Indicator Control Unit Voltage Input Low
I don't think it's related to the door. Basic procedure is to clear it and see if it comes back. If it does, check the connection between the BSI connector and the BSI control unit. If the connection is good, check the battery.
The official procedures then tell you to use a Honda Diagnostic System. (The code reader I mentioned above would do a similar thing, for the next steps.)
- (Looking at the real-time data) Check the ON/OFF information of the LEFT POWER SLIDE DOOR RATCHET SWITCH in the DATA LIST.
If it's showing ON then they say to replace the left power sliding door control unit.
If it's off, then
- Disconnect left power sliding door control unit connector A (12P).
- Disconnect left power sliding door rear latch connector B (6P).
- Check for continuity between left power sliding door control unit connector A (12P) terminal No. 12 and left power sliding door rear latch connector B (6P) terminal No. 6.
If there is continuity, replace the left power sliding door rear latch.
If no, there's an open or high resistance in the wire.
------------------------------
B18BE = Blind Spot Indicator Control Unit Voltage Input Low
I don't think it's related to the door. Basic procedure is to clear it and see if it comes back. If it does, check the connection between the BSI connector and the BSI control unit. If the connection is good, check the battery.
What's a Ratchet Switch? I can't explain it personally. It was a great mystery to me with my door issue but I found this:
Power Sliding Door Rear Latch
This assembly mechanically latches the rear of the door in the closed position. It contains the closer motor, the half-latch/full-latch switch, the base position switch, ratchet switch, and the fail-safe lever.
Inner handle, child safety lock OFF－The linkage on the remote control assembly (this is actually the inner handle, not to be confused with the key fob) closes remote control switch 3, the rear latch cable is pulled activating the ratchet switch. The power slide door control unit is signaled by the ratchet switch and the child lock switch to open the door.
Power Sliding Door Rear Latch
This assembly mechanically latches the rear of the door in the closed position. It contains the closer motor, the half-latch/full-latch switch, the base position switch, ratchet switch, and the fail-safe lever.
Inner handle, child safety lock OFF－The linkage on the remote control assembly (this is actually the inner handle, not to be confused with the key fob) closes remote control switch 3, the rear latch cable is pulled activating the ratchet switch. The power slide door control unit is signaled by the ratchet switch and the child lock switch to open the door.
Did you ever find a solution to this? I have the same thing happening on my 2011 passenger side. Opens 4-6" then stops beeps 3x and then get a constant beep after for 30s to 1 minute.
I have already replaced the rear latch with new OEM assembly but still have issues. I also got the Foxwell scanner and found that the rachet switch never changes value. It is always off even when the door is opened. Where as the driver side turns on the moment the door opens.
I would appreciate your help.
I have already replaced the rear latch with new OEM assembly but still have issues. I also got the Foxwell scanner and found that the rachet switch never changes value. It is always off even when the door is opened. Where as the driver side turns on the moment the door opens.
I would appreciate your help.
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