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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my 2011 Touring for 5+ years and only recently started hearing a pop noise when i open the sliding door on the driver's side. This is the door that gets most use in our family. It's been happening intermittently for the last 12-18 months. I tried to apply shinitsu grease to a few spots along the door jam, and this seemed to help. After a few months, the noise started happening again about 20% of the time. After researching this issue, it seems like it occurred in the prior gen Honda Odyssey too. I found 1 or 2 YouTube videos and a write-up of the fix. I was still having trouble finding a 2011-2017 picture of the door panel was was unsure how to remove. So, here is a quick overview of the procedure.

1. Roll down window
2. Turn off the automatic door open/close on the dash
3. Use a putty knife (with tape over the end to protect plastic) to remove the sliding door handle. It has a spring clip that needs to be pushed out (in a downward motion) before the handle is removed.
4. Remove the back panel at the rear of the door, next the the window and jam. There are 3 plastic push clips. Just pull firmly on panel to remove. I think this panel is black in all vehicles regardless of interior color.
5. Use panel removal tools or flathead screwdriver and pop the panel off and away from the metal door frame by wedging the tool into the gap between the metal and plastic panel. There are four push clips along the base of the door. I started pulling/prying in the corner near the cup holder. I worked my way up along the door jam where another 4 push clips are located. I then went under the door, laying on the ground to pry/pull apart the remaining clips along the bottom. After getting most of the clips loose, I went into the van, closed the door almost all the way, and firmly yanked on the door. The remaining clips came out and the door was only attached by the power window wires. Note, the door panel hangs on the window jam metal. The door handle, which was removed in step 3, will make it difficult to pull door panel off, just need to pull panel toward the center of the vehicle and lift up to get above the window jam.
6. Unclip the wire connector for window switch.
7. Panel should be removed.
P1070391.jpg P1070392.jpg

I also replaced a motor in the door that is likely causing the 'pop' noise when opening the door. This part, which was around $50, is easily removed and replaced.
8. Use a phillips head screw driver to remove the 2 screws attaching the plastic motor to the door frame.
9. Unclip the electrical switch connector
10. Pull apart the clip that connects to the lock/unlock lever. I was careful with this part since the plastic was thin. I used a flat plastic pry tool to separate the two pieces.
P1070395.jpg


After i did all this work, which took less than an hour, i cleaned all the door tracks that are greased and reapplied grease to them. Hopefully this motor was the culprit.
 

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I have the same issue, passenger side of my '14 EX-L.
I replaced the door lock actuator and it didn't fix it, as that's not what's sticking (though my local Honda dealer seems convinced it is). Is that the part you replaced? How's it working now?

Here's a video of the popping / sticking with the interior door panel removed:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced that white plastic motor visible in the youtube video you posted. It worked fine for a days and then i heard it pop again when i tried to open the door with the handle. So, looks like that part didn't fix the problem. If I use the remote, it seems to work fine. Makes me think that the latch release motor is not fully disengaging the lock before the slide motor starts to operate. Needless to say, i'm stumped. If you determine another course of action, please post.
 

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Looks like we're in the same boat. Yes, that visible white part is the Door Lock Actuator, and I don't know why Honda thinks that'll solve the issue because it only moves the door lock up and down, and it sticks / pops when the door is and has remained unlocked.

I think there's a door latch actuator that is sticking on our vans. From the discussions in the previous gen Odysseys, the latch - the part that holds the door open or closed - is sticking and not fully releasing. But for the life of me I can't find that part, and neither can Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i wonder if there is a motor in the 3rd row door panel that pulls the cables to 1st release the door latch and then pull the door back...
 

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Has yours started sticking open yet? Mine intermittently sticks / pops when closed and open, about 25% of the time when it's closed and 20% when it's open.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i only hear the 'pop' and see the door sticking when the door is fully closed and i'm trying to open it.
 

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So I have posted about this same problem before. As of yet, I have found no solution. Replaced the door actuator and replaced the center roller (as the dealer said that was the problem...) I cruise this forum occasionally hoping someone finds the cure to this problem and posts it for the rest of us. I definitely get less occurrences using the dash button and keyfob. So I try to use that mostly to open the door.
 

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First thing to do is scan for codes. Turn off the key. Insert a wire into pins #4 and #9 of the DLC and then turn the key to the ON position.



You should be able to read the codes on the gauge cluster.

While the gen 4 doors are a bit different in design I'd guess they work pretty similar to the gen 3. The popping and sticking on the gen 3 is usually the release actuator (not the door lock actuator.) On the gen 3 it's located right in the middle, at the bottom of the sliding door and easy to get to once the door panel is off. On the gen 4 it's built into the Power Sliding Door Latch Remote Control assembly. It's also on the back side. I've not had one of these apart to know if it's something that can be removed and cleaned or if you do have to replace the entire Door Latch Remote Control assembly. You can get the entire assembly on Bernardi for $159 and comes in different interior colors so there must be something from the interior built into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
John, thanks for taking the time to post. I'd 'buy' this as the solution. I'm not sure why you'd think the OBDII would give any error codes and that that could be useful, but the Door Latch Remote Control assembly part you reference is likely the cause of the pop. If you could post the part number, i'm willing to give that a try.
 

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There are B-CAN codes that the other modules in the vehicle will set when they see a problem. An OBDII scan tool will not show them as most OBDII scan tools only read the PCM and P-codes. There are lots of B-codes (and other codes from other modules) that can be set just in the rear sliding doors. There may not be any codes stored but if there are it greatly speeds up diagnostics on the doors.
 

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I see above that you replaced the latch actuator (white module on the door latch assembly.) The part that is acting up is on the back side of that latch assembly. It should have a wire going to it on the back side. If you watch the video above you see when the door fails that the latch assembly makes noise but doesn't move. The second try from the switch shows the latch assembly move and then the door opens. The problem is in that unlatching or release actuator. You need that entire assembly as Honda doesn't sell the part separately. If you can remove that entire assembly you can gain access to it and maybe it's serviceable. On the gen 3 you can usually pop them apart, clean them, and relube them with white lithium grease and they will work fine. Fortunately, on the gen 3 they are much easier to access, much like the white actuator assembly you replaced above.

The part number is:



#027

CONTROL ASSY., L. SLIDE DOOR REMOTE *NH686L* (POWER)(WARM GRAY)

Part Number: 72662-TK8-A11ZA

Price: $164.39

You Save: $69.78




There are three different colors listed and the part numbers end in A, B, or C, depending on the color. I guess they charge a few dollars more for the left side than the right side. Go figure.
 

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2015 EX-L has the same issue

I've got my dealership stumped as well. Here's a video of the driver's side sliding door malfunctioning. Happens about 20% of the time (but not at the dealership).

See next post for URL (I can't post it on my first post).
 

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Stumping the dealer is really not that hard to do considering a dealership is often the first place a new technician goes to work. I posted the answer above. Replace the remote latch assembly. The unlatching/release actuator is part of that assembly.
 

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I saw the video. Post #3 is not the answer. That white box is not the unlatching/release actuator and that's why it didn't fix it. The release actuator is on the BACK side of that entire assembly and, according to the Honda parts diagram is not sold or serviced separately. Check my post #13. It's the same problem that happens on the gen 3 vans. They just moved the actuator to the back and made it part of the entire assembly.
 

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Ooops, I thought I'd deleted that. I needed a minimum of 3 posts to put a link in a message. That was just Post #3 :)
Dealer contacted and informed of the fix! Wish me luck.
 
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