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Discussion Starter #1
The passenger door will not open with the button the door sticks and then closes back, if you use the handle and keep the handle pulled out for just a second longer it will open just find. Im not sure to where to start. I assuming theres a latch problem or linkage problem from the actuator. The door alignment is straight as well.
 

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2011 Odyssey LX, 120k miles
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I've got what I think is the exact same problem, and am looking for an answer.

99 EX, owned since new, replaced rollers, very familiar with normal operation, etc.

Problem with the passenger side power sliding door

Just recently, here's what it does (all the time, now):
lock/unlock works just fine
driver's side fine
closes fine
opens fine when pulling the outside handle
does not open with:
- key fob,
- "open" button on dash, or
- inside handle
When I do this, I can hear something happening (motors, etc.), but it fails to open and then beeps, ending in a fully closed state.

I've tried helping it by pulling the rear of the door outward while pressing the key fob. I figured that if it were binding on something, my pulling would be enough to overcome that. But it does not help.

And since I can hear it trying to do something, my thought is that the electrical signal is getting there. Just somehow the unlatch operation does not happen - unless I open it with the outside handle.

Is there some unlatching actuator that could have failed? The lock/unlock actuator works fine, as does the motor that pulls the rear of the door inward to finish closing it.

Thanks for any help.
 

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2011 Odyssey LX, 120k miles
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update - checking more carefully, it DOES open with the inside handle. It seems to be a mechanical problem, so I plan to take off the door panel and check in there for broken parts.

Also, both inside and outside handles can open the door when moved very lightly - i.e., it is not as if using the handle yanks the door un-stuck and allows it to open.
 

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2011 Odyssey LX, 120k miles
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I think I've found it: the motor in the release actuator is just about dead. It is part of the entire 72622-S0X-A51 Remote Control Assembly, which includes the lock as well. I'll see if I can find just the motor I need, rather than having to replace the whole assembly, but that's probably what I'll end up having to do.

If anyone else has the same symptoms I had, the easy way to confirm this problem is to listen for the motor. It is just a little rearward of the door handle. Listen for it on the working door first, and then if you don't hear it on the broken door, that is a good clue. Then to confirm, remove the inner door panel, remove the 4P connector below the handle. Put 12V across the yellow/red (-) and white/red (+) pins to test the motor. With mine, I just heard a faint click, which was confirmed as I dug in all the way to the bare motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thats where about where i stopped the last time i worked on my, narrowed it down to the motor but could find just the motor, every junk yard or part place wanted to sell me the assembly.
Keep us posted on your finds
 

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All fixed now.

The motor is a Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125

Some specs:
Nominal Voltage: 12vdc
Shaft: ROUND - 2mm diameter x 9.85mm length
Canister: 24.2mm Diameter (18.3mm on flat sides) x 30.5mm long
Overall Length: 45.0mm (Tip to Tail)

I bought 4 of them on ebay for about $6 each.

Since I was in there, I replaced the motor (exact same) for the sliding door lock actuator as well. I would guess that this motor is used on all locks, etc. on the car. A year or so ago I replaced both front door lock actuators, when I could probably have just replaced the motors. So now I have the spares in case another one goes.

I did need to remove and replace the press-fit gear on the shaft, and for the release actuator, I had to do a little surgery to get the electrical connectors to work. The door lock actuator required no connector surgery, just pulling off and pressing on the gear drive thing.

I would be careful about buying some other Mabuchi and hoping it's close enough. The first one I tried looked almost the same, but was not strong enough.
 

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Oldskewel,

I am having the same problems with my passenger door. Is the a way to apply 12 volts to through junction switch to test the release motor. Also do you know if there is anything in the latch assembly that would cause the release motor to not work?

Thanks
 

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I don't really know. It is surprisingly easy to remove the door panel and have a look at everything.
 
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