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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sliding doors and electric window not functioning. I am the original owner of a white 2002 EX with 140,000 miles. on the same day, both power doors stopped working on both sides as well as the passenger power window. I checked every fuse associated with them, and none were bad. Following recommendations from previous posters, I removed the negative cable from the battery, and done the things to “rehome” the doors, they still do not work. The driver side power window still works, as does the power mirrors. Everything has always worked until now. The switch on the driver side that controls the passenger window also does not work. I really hate to think all these motors and or switches, would all go bad simultaneously. I’m thinking that possibly under the van where all the wires are, or somewhere in the engine compartment, there is a short circuit or a cut wire or wires that controls these three power devices. I would greatly appreciate if anyone has any other suggestions on what I can do to get my power doors and passenger side window working again. Thanks and advance for any help!
 

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I don't have power doors, but it sounds like what happens when my "master" switch, on driver's armrest, accidentally gets set to "off" and disables all other windows. If not that specifically, something in that circuit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I tried working the power switches with the master switch and both on and off positions, and nothing works. But thanks for your information.
 

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I tried working the power switches with the master switch and both on and off positions, and nothing works. But thanks for your information.
Just quickly, did you check Fuse#1 (30A) in the Secondary Hood fuse box? Only 2 fuses in there.
Fuse#11 (30A) in the Primary Under Hood Fuse Box
Fuse#1 (20A) in the Passenger Side Fuse Box near the floor.
Fuse #5 (20A) in the Passenger Side Fuse Box
Fuse #8 (20A) in the Passenger Side Fuse Box

BUT

I think the fuse that is causing the problem might just be Fuse#13 (7.5A) in the Passenger Side Fuse Box
It is labeled as" Clock, Back UP " and it does feed power to the relays for some, if not all, of those items.
So, check the Clock Back Up fuse and if there is any doubt, put a new one in.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did visually look at those fuses and visually they were not blown. My next step is to take all the fuses out one at a time, and check them with my multimeter to be sure there is a solid connection from positive to negative. If all my fuses are good, then I’ll have to take it to an auto electric repair shop to find either the shortened or broken wire or wires, as it’s two doors and one window. If you have any other suggestions of what else I could do myself, I would love to hear what they might be! Thanks again for your input. How often do you change your transmission fluid, in order to keep a notoriously easily broken transmission still working for 200,000 miles? I know people who had the same year odyssey, and the transmission went bad at 70,000 miles or 78,000 miles. Whatever you doing it’s working great!
 

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Also check the drivers switch module- sometimes cold solder joints cause these weird issues and reflowing with a soldering iron can fix this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In other words take a soldering iron with a very small tip and lightly touch each solder joint to make sure there’s a good connection? I do have a 30 watt soldering iron that does have a very small tip and can get up to I think it was 550°
 

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I did visually look at those fuses and visually they were not blown. My next step is to take all the fuses out one at a time, and check them with my multimeter to be sure there is a solid connection from positive to negative. If all my fuses are good, then I’ll have to take it to an auto electric repair shop to find either the shortened or broken wire or wires, as it’s two doors and one window. If you have any other suggestions of what else I could do myself, I would love to hear what they might be! Thanks again for your input. How often do you change your transmission fluid, in order to keep a notoriously easily broken transmission still working for 200,000 miles? I know people who had the same year odyssey, and the transmission went bad at 70,000 miles or 78,000 miles. Whatever you doing it’s working great!
Did you check that last one I mentioned? Fuse #13 (7.5A) " Clock, Back UP " in the interior passenger side near the door?
I was hoping that would be it.
Otherwise, it might be a grounding point or connection that got corroded or broken.
I bought the Ody with around 125k miles on it in 2010 so the AT must have been well maintained or just a good one.
In the last 60k miles or so I have been doing a single drain and fill with Valvoline MaxLife/Dex/Merc ATF with LubeGard Red around 20k mile intervals.
Shortly after I bought it, I did 4 drain and fills (driving time in-between each) with Honda DW-1.
However, if when I check it and I see it getting darker, I would do a single drain and fill earlier.
Same with the motor oil. If it would get dark for some reason before my normal change, I would do it then. I have only done that once.
I like clean looking ATF and engine oil.
When you get the solution, please post back as it could really help others.
Anything else electrical stop working around the same time.
You could also check some to the relay contacts to see if they are getting voltage.
Buffalo4
 

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Shortly after I bought it, I did 4 drain and fills (driving time in-between each) with Honda DW-1.
However, if when I check it and I see it getting darker, I would do a single drain and fill earlier.
Same with the motor oil. If it would get dark for some reason before my normal change, I would do it then. I have only done that once.
I like clean looking ATF and engine oil.
Me too! After cleaning up my ATF with 3 drain and fills, and installed a Magnefine ATF filter, I decided to do a drain and fill with every oil change. I already have the van on jacks, tools out, and have to take the used oil up to Advance. I like the ATF clean, and also all the additives fresh. This seems to make the most sense.

I also got a bag of new aluminum washers for each drain plug. Cheap. I'm amazed that both of my plugs had flattened alum washers and no mechanic thought it wise to ever replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fridays are my day off, so I will check that fuse you mentioned then, as well as all the other fuses what is a multi meter. And I will start draining the transmission fluid and replacing it with new stuff every oil change. Did you ever measure how many quarts of fluid came out, so you could put exactly the same amount back in so you don’t overfill the system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I really should carefully read my posts before I hit the post reply button. In front of the word multi meter, should be the words with a multi meter.
 

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Did you ever measure how many quarts of fluid came out, so you could put exactly the same amount back in so you don’t overfill the system?
Some people do this. Approx 3.5 Qts will drain out when you open the plug. It does help to keep the splashing down by keeping the dipstick in place. Some folks have calibrated gallon jugs with marks on them.

I was told that between the two marks on the dipstick is a 1/2 Qt. So it's easier for me to add 3 Qts, drive around, warm it up, shut off the engine, and immediately check the fluid level. Add ATF accordingly. If it's slightly over filled, nothing will be hurt.

Heck, where I live there is no such thing as a truly level surface. I haven't seen "level" since I left Ohio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Do you add the new fluid down the dipstick tube where you check the fluid level of the transmission? And if you do what do you use to put the new fluid in as that opening has a very small diameter. Thanks in advance for your answer! Maybe Kansas is the only state where actually can find a level spot!
 

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Do you add the new fluid down the dipstick tube where you check the fluid level of the transmission? And if you do what do you use to put the new fluid in as that opening has a very small diameter. Thanks in advance for your answer! Maybe Kansas is the only state where actually can find a level spot!
Yes, I add ATF thru the dipstick tube, since my fill plug on top of the transmission was used for that "A/T Oil Jet Kit" service recall years ago. Here's my fill tube/funnel. It works perfect. The hose goes on the OUTSIDE of the dipstick tube. Since the clear tube is .50" Diam and the dipstick filler is slightly smaller at 12 mm, the spring clamp prevents dripping. The funnel just fits perfect in the space above the filler tube and engine parts hold it steady so I don't have to.
162337
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well it looks like I’m going to make a trip to the hardware store to get all these parts. Thanks a lot for the picture, as that will show the hardware folks what we need. Thanks again!
 

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I also use the dipstick tube for adding ATF. I use a 'long' stemmed black funnel I bought at Walmart that fits 'over' the dipstick tube. The ATF flows very quickly down that tube so no problem there like some have where they put a tube 'inside' the dipstick tube. It fits tight enough that basically no fluid runs down the outside of the dipstick tube.
I also slightly overfill the tranny. Approx 1/8" above the top line and never had a problem.
Any yes, the amt needed to go from the low hole to the upper hole is one pint.
Buffalo4
 

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I have a hose like Mr Pixburd except that mine fits so tight on the outside of the dipstick that it doesnt require a clamp mechanism I force the funnel on one end of the hose which stretches it temporarily wide enough to go over the dipstick.

Using my cheap mans ramps = the sidewalk. Due to the car being tilted on an angle way more fluid drained. A tiny smidge under 4 quarts drained out from my transmission.
 

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Rather than removing fuses to test, you can use a test lamp on both sides (the little holes in the top of fuses are for this purpose). Both sides should light it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
A family member need an emergency gall bladder removal surgery this weekend, so I did nothing for checking any fuses and will do it this coming weekend as long as nothing else crazy happens. You never know what life will throw at you!
 

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Yes, I add ATF thru the dipstick tube, since my fill plug on top of the transmission was used for that "A/T Oil Jet Kit" service recall years ago. Here's my fill tube/funnel. It works perfect. The hose goes on the OUTSIDE of the dipstick tube. Since the clear tube is .50" Diam and the dipstick filler is slightly smaller at 12 mm, the spring clamp prevents dripping. The funnel just fits perfect in the space above the filler tube and engine parts hold it steady so I don't have to.
View attachment 162337
Love this McGyver stuff...... will try it out. BTW, I have a pump that will suck old oil out of the engine through the oil dipstick tube. Maybe I should give that a try to remove old transmission fluid through the transmission fill tube, instead of jacking up the car, getting underneath and doing the transmission drainplug routine.
 
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