[Nhu]

I have been very careful with the van since the beginning (Muzzled, ATF change every oil change). Everything works great so far. Today I changed ATF and the van immediately started slipping after that. As I speed up, I can see the RPM moves up and down as if it is gear hunting but I think it's just compensating for the slippage. Sometimes, letting go of the brake will not move the van and I have to give it gas >1-1.5K RPM to actually move it.

The van is 2017, 67K km.

I used to do all my ATF change, this is the only time I did it at the garage. I guess that was the mistake??? I'm thinking of just order some ATF and do a 3 drain-fill cycles to see if it helps. Is this a good idea. It has been running perfectly before the ATF change so I don't think there is damage to it.

Thanks for your inputs.

SOLVED: Do drain-and-fill 3X with DW-1 fixed the problem.

 

[WiiMaster]

What ATF did you use?

 

[Nhu]

I use Maxlife myself. I don't know what the garage used.

 

[dvpatel]

Does your invoice say "Flush"? The garages have expensive flush machines and they need to make payments for them. You need to find out if they "flushed" the fluid and also the brand of the fluid and perhaps re-do the ATF change either with MaxLife or Honda ATF.

 

[0dyfamily]

Please tell me you did not use Jiffy Lube's "T-Tech" service.

OF

 

[Nhu]

No. This is my trusted mechanic. I usually stay along his side chatting while he does his thing. We did not do a flush. He said he used ATF for "import" that is equivalent to DW1. I understand that if the fluid is crap (after 150K without changing) then it could very well cause the slippage if new fluid is used. However, my current fluid look nearly as good as the new fluid. That's why I don't know what could cause this.

At first I thought may be he resets the "learning" thing but he said didn't.

I ordered Maxlife and will do the the fluid change again tomorrow myself to see if that helps. Any other ideas?

 

[davedrivesody]

He said he used ATF for "import" that is equivalent to DW1.

After being so diligent with service since new, you probably let your guard down by trusting the shop to use a truly Honda-compatible ATF. "Import" + "equivalent" = Kryptonite.

Slipping is tough on the clutches. Don't drive it any more than absolutely necessary until the 3-times drain/fill is complete.

Take a short drive at highway speed between each d/f cycle to mix the new fluid into the large volume of fluid in the torque converter.

Dumb question, how is the fluid level?

 

[Nhu]

I checked and added to make sure that it's at the top when "hot".

The only reason I let the mechanic do it is so that I have documentation. I know that I can do it and keep the receipts but I was afraid that it only says I bought the fluid, not I changed the fluid.

It was running so perfectly and the fluid coming out was like new (I do the change myself for every A service "silently", the B I need documentation) so I hope that the 3x drains will help. I'll pick up the jugs tomorrow 7AM and go to work .

My other car (also serviced with the same mechanic) is CRV2003 400K km without any issue.

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

I dont think one drain and fill would cause this issue.
67K is a lot on the original fluid.

3x drain and fills (2more) and use some lubeguard red and observe.

 

[Nhu]

I change ATF with every single oil change.

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

in that case throw some lubeguard red in there.

if its oil related, that will sort it out.

 

[davedrivesody]

The only reason I let the mechanic do it is so that I have documentation. I know that I can do it and keep the receipts but I was afraid that it only says I bought the fluid, not I changed the fluid.

Makes sense that a shop work order could be stronger proof than a retail store receipt.

However, the two are actually equivalent in strength. Service done DIY, at an independent shop, or at a Honda dealer all qualify equally toward the owner's responsibility for maintaining the warranty.

This is outside the terms of the warranty, but they would probably look first at the condition of the fluid to assess its service history before seeking documentation.

 

[0dyfamily]

I understand that if the fluid is crap (after 150K without changing) then it could very well cause the slippage if new fluid is used.

This is an internet legend. New ATF does not cause any automatic transmission to begin malfunctioning. I've purchased multiple used cars over the years that had between 65,000 to just over 100,000 miles. One had 155,000 miles (perfect, white 1998 Accord LX driven by a little old lady from north Texas...it was a bargain!).

None of these vehicles had any documented ATF servicing. Not once did I hesitate to do a 4x drain/refill as first order of business. All of them either continued running well, or ran better...one of them, a lot better.

in that case throw some lubeguard red in there.

if its oil related, that will sort it out.

Our ancient 1998 Accord LX needed 4x ATF drains/refills just to make the ATF red again. 4x more with Honda ATF. It ran much, much better in terms of shifting and eliminated transmission shudder at idle.

That Accord still had a worrisome, profound torque converter shudder under spirited acceleration. Lubegard (red bottle) fixed that. We put about 100,000 more miles on that car; best we ever paid for a car in terms of cost per mile.

I became a Lubegard convert after I used Lubegard to notably lessen harsh reverse gear engagement in both of our Odysseys. So, I did not hesitate to get another bottle and try it in our old Accord.

I'm thinking of just order some ATF and do a 3 drain-fill cycles to see if it helps.

I think that's a good idea. I'm pretty sure we all think that's a good idea.

After being so diligent with service since new, you probably let your guard down by trusting the shop to use a truly Honda-compatible ATF. "Import" + "equivalent" = Kryptonite.

As well, I'd still like to know exactly what ATF he did use.

Slipping is tough on the clutches. Don't drive it any more than absolutely necessary until the 3-times drain/fill is complete

Agreed. Very much agree with this! That rise in RPM before engagement, followed by an RPM drop as the clutch fully engages is called "flaring", and if it is doing this for other gears as well, the slipping involved will destroy the affected clutch packs in short order.

OF

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

I change ATF with every single oil change.

are you sure its not a bad pressure switch?

there were some other posts of pressure switches going bad with low mileage like you on 2017's.

what are the exact symptoms?

MrRangerZr1 as always did a great job documenting this.

 

[Nhu]

Given that it was running perfectly coming into service and ran like crap coming out of service (and that the old fluid look just like new coming out), I don't think it's a pressure switch problem but more of the fluid problem.

Thank you odyfamily.

I also ordered Lubeguard red to try out.

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

Given that it was running perfectly coming into service and ran like crap coming out of service (and that the old fluid look just like new coming out), I don't think it's a pressure switch problem but more of the fluid problem.

Thank you odyfamily.

I also ordered Lubeguard red to try out.

I have heard that one enough times.

it was running fine yesterday!

 

[Nhu]

Well, this is within the 1/2 hour before and after. I muzzled mine when it was 5km, change ATF with every single oil change. I pay attention to the way the engine starts, runs, and stops. I treat it the same way as my other car that is currently 400K with everything original.

That's why I suspect the fluid because that was the only thing that changed in that 1/2 hour.

 

[Nhu]

Well, I went to Walmart to pickup the order. They "substituted" ATF with engine oil because they ran out of ATF????

I'm done with "substitute", "compatible", and "equivalent"!

Must wait for tomorrow to go to the dealer to get DW1.

 

[dvpatel]

Now that is funny. Walmart substituting ATF with engine oil.

 

[Ted]

No. This is my trusted mechanic. He said he used ATF for "import" that is equivalent to DW1.

That's a garbage answer. He doesn't know what was put in there, so is going vague.

That's why I don't know what could cause this.

The wrong ATF. While sometimes there are coincidences, the odds of "coincidence" and your tranny was about to fail no matter what are extremely low, in my estimation.

Are you going to continue using this trusted mechanic? Has he offered to make it right?

Personally, I would hold the mechanic to a much higher standard than some retail stock clerk who made a substitution. Remember, the WM clerk told you it was a substitute and gave you the opportunity to accept or decline it. Totally appropriate conduct. The mechanic poured whatever into your tranny, without asking, and has just played dumb. Which, on second thought, may not be an act.