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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Just want to update you guys on the progress. After the 1 drain-fill, it gets better immediately, after the 3rd one, it's just like before the "fateful" ATF change ;). So logic tells me that the fluid is what caused the problem for sure.

Now it's the same fluid the he has been using for both my CRV for the last 15 years without problem. I guess Odyssey transmission is not as robust. However, it's amazing that one single change could cause that much problem.

I will get the brand of the ATF he uses and let you guys knows so you can avoid it.

Now the red lubeguard is not here yet. Should I just add it in anyway once I get it or don't bother?
 

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It's not a case of a tranny being robust, or not. The fluid used must meet the design needs of the tranny, in particular the clutch friction and steels. That's part of the reason for the multiplicity of ATFs and CVT fluids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Both the CRV and the Odyssey uses DW1. The same fluid (whatever brand the mechanic uses) keeps the CRV running for 15 years (400K now) with no problem causes the Odyssey to fail early. That makes me think the design is not as robust.
 

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You can think of it as weaker because it requires the ATF specified to operate properly. I see it more like blood. Some athletes are AB+, and can take whatever blood is hanging around getting old. Others are O- ,and require an exact match. Both can be equal in strength, speed, endurance...robustness. Or the O- can actually be more robust.
 

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The same fluid (whatever brand the mechanic uses) keeps the CRV running for 15 years (400K now) with no problem causes the Odyssey to fail early.
Apples and oranges.

The Ody is about 1/2 ton heavier than the CRV, with about 50% more engine torque coming into the transmission.

The Ody's transmission is apparently less tolerant of out-of-spec ATF's. I don't think that constitutes early failure.
 
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Both the CRV and the Odyssey uses DW1. The same fluid (whatever brand the mechanic uses) keeps the CRV running for 15 years (400K now) with no problem causes the Odyssey to fail early. That makes me think the design is not as robust.
We all know it’s the fluid the “trusted” mechanic used. Let’s keep the blame there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Agree that the fluid is 100% to blame. And of course the mechanic too. I will talk to him to see what happened to his supply/process. He himself has been super nice. He would let me use the lift and tools for free if I'm inclined to fix small things myself when he is too busy. He only charge me when he has to do the work.

I find it amazing that 1 fluid change (1/3 volume) can make a smooth-like-butter car a jerky one so fast. And I am sure he put ATF, not piss or engine oil :).
 

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I only have 261K miles using DW-1 and have not an issue and not worth experimenting with another brand at this point to save a buck.
My logic thus far exactly
 

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I'd still like to know the ATF he used. It doesn't sound like anything that our forum members have ever used (Honda OEM, Valvoline, AmSOil, Red Line, Mobil 1, etc.)

OF
 
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It's interesting to look at the Valvoline offerings. The red Maxlife is recommeded by Valvoline to replace both Z-1 and DW-1. That's $18 a gallon at WM. They also sell the multi vehicle which does not include DW-1 in its coverage, and sells for ~$28 a gal at WM. We await the solution of the mystery.
 
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This is most interesting......
Honda DW-1Valvoline MaxlifeIdemitsu Type H PlusAisin DW-1Mobil 1 HPZF Lifeguard 6Castrol ImportRedline D4Lubeguard CompleteAmsoil ATLRoyal Purple MaxHonda Z1Valvoline ImportBeck - Arnley
Boron272272304665140120405752882522907733
Silicon422322824327832
Sodium383134190513104
Calcium353230265117117639030676275116395120273
Magnesium204321200150124101
Phosphorus25792453401954002348234306806342198258
Zinc32033165051551138003
[email protected](cSt)6.935.915.917.335.755.57.997.465.966.027.326.936.96.89
 

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This is most interesting.....
Sure is; the chart shows huge differences in certain elements between brands of ATF, e.g. Valvoline Import vs. Valvoline Maxlife.

This is all the more reason to stick with an ATF that's known to work in these vans i.e. not to experiment, or to trust a mechanic to choose.
 

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I assume the viscosity has a value range spec'd by Honda. Does anyone know if any of the other elements listed has a specified (by Honda) range, and if so, what it is?
 

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This is beyond excessive, follow a more reasonable schedule. A trust-worthy mechanic would not have recommended an ATF change every 5k miles. You're just lining their pockets.
Just what some people prefer to do. If you notice, OP said they usually do it themself. So I doubt it's a case of a mechanic ripping them off.

Some people do it every oil change, others do it every other oil change, 15k, 30k, never, etc.
 
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This is beyond excessive, follow a more reasonable schedule. A trust-worthy mechanic would not have recommended an ATF change every 5k miles. You're just lining their pockets.
Read the posts. He does most of the drain and fills himself. And doing one at every OC is something that many posters here do.
 

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Read the posts. He does most of the drain and fills himself. And doing one at every OC is something that many posters here do.
o_O Same post, same time
 
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