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I thought you said "not allowed to", which, to me, implies a rule from above him in the food chain. If it's only his attitude preventing him, then I apologize to Gavin & the gang.
 

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I thought you said "not allowed to", which, to me, implies a rule from above him in the food chain. If it's only his attitude preventing him, then I apologize to Gavin & the gang.
Specifically, "Test Only" Smog inspection stations are not allowed to offer any repair advice unless asked. "Test and Repair" locations are. Conceived as a way to make sure that people don't get pressured into unnecessary services for the bi-annual smog check, but has unintended consequences, like always.

Of course, that doesn't mean the owner/operator can't be nice and/or reasonable about the whole deal!

-Charlie
 

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April, I want to get it done. That shop owner is not a friendly person.
Well, if you have until April, I assume you'll have your OBDII device long before then. If you don't like the attitude of the shop owner, why give him another dime, discounted or not?

If I really wanted it done quickly, I'd spend the extra $10+ and get it done somewhere else, but I'd ask first to see if they would share the details after the test.
 

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I'm sorry, but telling you the reason you failed a smog test is not recommending a fix. Not to any reasonable mind. It takes a true bureaucrat (even if privately employed) to twist sharing a copy of the test results into a sales pitch for repairs.
 
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Discussion Starter #25
My van is at 95K today, I have driven it 253 miles now but it's still throwing errors with the catalyst and others. I'm going to try a different gas station like Shell besides the Costco and 76.

Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks.

160496
160497
 

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What codes did it throw?

A monitor will never pass if there's a problem with the system it's monitoring.
 

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The P codes are what would help us help you.
 

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Your scanner is showing PASSED/NOT PASSED vs. READY/NOT READY. Does NOT PASSED mean it's just not ready, or does it mean it failed? If it failed, you would have the check engine light on along with a trouble code.

If there is no CEL or trouble code, then it means the tests have just not run yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
There are no CEL or anything on the dash. There are no codes with the Veepeak, I've ordered another scanner. I'll see if Autozone would scan would do a scan. I already ordered another scanner (Bluedriver) to arrive on Monday.
 

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netman88, I apologize for raising the presence of codes. I misinterpreted your statement "it's still throwing errors with the catalyst and others" in post #25.

No CEL means there are no solid codes. (There could still be pending codes, but I don't know if these would affect the monitors.)

The outstanding monitors have likely either not started, or have started and not finished.
 

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Take a look at the drive cycle described here and see if any of the conditions listed that you don't see under your normal driving conditions.


HOW TO PERFORM A HONDA ODYSSEY DRIVE CYCLE

The following is a Honda OBDII Drive Cycle Pattern. (Obey all traffic laws while performing drive cycles. Perform acceleration steps only on highways)

COLD START: Begin from Cold Start, and ignition in OFF position for at least 1 hour. Insure your Honda’s fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full and engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F and within 11°F of the ambient air temperature. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

IDLE TIME: Run your Honda’s engine (do not drive) for 2 1/2 minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. During this period the ECU will be running the Oxygen Sensor Heater self-test, Air Injection System Passive Air test, EVAP Purge "No Flow" test, Misfire Detection.

ACCELERATE: Turn off the air conditioner and rear defroster and begin driving. As soon as possible apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. The ECU will now run self-tests on the Misfire Detection, Fuel Trim, and EVAP Purge Flow.

HOLD STEADY: Now hold your vehicle speed steady at 55mph for three minutes. During this time the Oxygen Sensor O2 response, Air Intrusive (AIS System), EGR Flow, Purge Valve, Misfire Detection, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

DECELERATE: During this step you want to slowly let off the accelerator pedal. Do not brake or shift your Honda in order to slow down. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph. The ECU will once again self-test the EGR System, EVAP Purge System and Long Term Fuel Trims.

ACCELERATE: Go ahead and accelerate again at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph is reached. This will perform the same self tests as during the first acceleration step.

HOLD STEADY: Hold steady speed once again. This time at 55mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to running the self-tests as during the first HOLD STEADY step, the ECU will perform the catalyst monitor diagnostics. If the catalyst (Catalytic Converter) is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst,or in order to Complete the CAT Monitor.

DECELERATE: This will perform the same diagnostics as in the first Deceleration. Remember not to press your Honda’s brake or shift gears during deceleration.
This should complete the drive cycle on your Honda Odyssey. To ensure all monitors are complete use a scan tool to view the monitors. You may want to complete the drive cycle 2-3 times.
 

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Take a look at the drive cycle described here and see if any of the conditions listed that you don't see under your normal driving conditions.

HOW TO PERFORM A HONDA ODYSSEY DRIVE CYCLE
I'm taking a survey.

How many Ody Club members have actually been able to perform the Honda Odyssey Drive Cycle as specified?

Those of you with access to a chassis dynamometer need not apply. :)

How many of you can follow the 1 hour cold start requirement and be close enough to a road where you can safely accelerate gradually to 55 MPH and hold it there for 2.75 miles, then coast down to 20 MPH, accelerate gradually back up to 55 MPH, hold it there for 4.6 miles and then coast down to 20 again? Remember, no braking.

We're basically talking about fairly straight road, roughly, I don't know, maybe 10 miles long to allow for acceleration and coasting, with no one in your way, where the speed limit is at least 55 MPH but slowing to 20 (twice) isn't an issue. I guess it could be done on any highway at 3 AM, expect for maybe NYC or LA. (Doing 20 on a highway in NYC isn't out of the ordinary, it's the holding 55 for X miles that could be an issue. ;))

While in the Coast Guard, I spent a year on the island of Sylt, Germany. I guess I could have done it there, but I didn't own an Ody back then. I owned...wait for it...a Volkswagen Beetle.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Take a look at the drive cycle described here and see if any of the conditions listed that you don't see under your normal driving conditions.


HOW TO PERFORM A HONDA ODYSSEY DRIVE CYCLE

The following is a Honda OBDII Drive Cycle Pattern. (Obey all traffic laws while performing drive cycles. Perform acceleration steps only on highways)

COLD START: Begin from Cold Start, and ignition in OFF position for at least 1 hour. Insure your Honda’s fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full and engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F and within 11°F of the ambient air temperature. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

IDLE TIME: Run your Honda’s engine (do not drive) for 2 1/2 minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. During this period the ECU will be running the Oxygen Sensor Heater self-test, Air Injection System Passive Air test, EVAP Purge "No Flow" test, Misfire Detection.

ACCELERATE: Turn off the air conditioner and rear defroster and begin driving. As soon as possible apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. The ECU will now run self-tests on the Misfire Detection, Fuel Trim, and EVAP Purge Flow.

HOLD STEADY: Now hold your vehicle speed steady at 55mph for three minutes. During this time the Oxygen Sensor O2 response, Air Intrusive (AIS System), EGR Flow, Purge Valve, Misfire Detection, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

DECELERATE: During this step you want to slowly let off the accelerator pedal. Do not brake or shift your Honda in order to slow down. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph. The ECU will once again self-test the EGR System, EVAP Purge System and Long Term Fuel Trims.

ACCELERATE: Go ahead and accelerate again at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph is reached. This will perform the same self tests as during the first acceleration step.

HOLD STEADY: Hold steady speed once again. This time at 55mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to running the self-tests as during the first HOLD STEADY step, the ECU will perform the catalyst monitor diagnostics. If the catalyst (Catalytic Converter) is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst,or in order to Complete the CAT Monitor.

DECELERATE: This will perform the same diagnostics as in the first Deceleration. Remember not to press your Honda’s brake or shift gears during deceleration.
This should complete the drive cycle on your Honda Odyssey. To ensure all monitors are complete use a scan tool to view the monitors. You may want to complete the drive cycle 2-3 times.
Thanks, I'll try it out.
 

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How many Ody Club members have actually been able to perform the Honda Odyssey Drive Cycle as specified?
Most people don't ever need to do all those specific steps. Under normal driving you'll eventually hit all of the conditions required and all the tests will complete. These steps are meant to be used if you were to disconnect your battery, or were troubleshooting/doing a repair that required clearing the trouble codes, and then needed the emissions tests complete right away to pass a smog test, confirm a repair, etc.. Following those steps will get the tests completed in the least amount of time.
 

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I think the chances of success using Honda Odyssey steps is better than using the Toyota steps.
 

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Most people don't ever need to do all those specific steps. Under normal driving you'll eventually hit all of the conditions required and all the tests will complete. These steps are meant to be used if you were to disconnect your battery, or were troubleshooting/doing a repair that required clearing the trouble codes, and then needed the emissions tests complete right away to pass a smog test, confirm a repair, etc.. Following those steps will get the tests completed in the least amount of time.
Yes, I completely understand when a formal step-by-step drive cycle might be used.

Allow me to rephrase the survey question:

How many Ody Club members could safely perform the Honda Odyssey Drive Cycle as specified?

My point was simply that it's not an easy task to accomplish.

That said, there is certainly no reason for netman88 not to attempt it. I’d be curious to know if his driving environment would allow it.

I’ve tried it a few times but I’ve never been able to get it perfect. Heck, most brake bedding procedures are easier than the formal drive cycle and even those are hard to do.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I tried the Honda Drive cycle today, it didn't work to give me SMOG readiness. I couldn't follow 100% on it though with the local traffic conditions.

I called another Smog shop and that person told me to drive between 45-55MPH for 3 mins at least. I tried that for 5 mins and parked the vehicle for 10 mins and pulled up the numbers. It's looking the smog readiness is PASSED/READY from all 3 apps.

160511
160512

OBDII Dongle Veepeek OBDCheck BLE+
The 1st picture is now showing PASSED for Catalyst from the Car Scanner App
The 2nd picture is showing READY from the Carista app.

I got the BlueDriver OBD also today so I did the test and it confirms it's ready.

Hopes this will help the next person. Thanks all that chimed in.

160513
 

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As an aside, in California at least, you can pay the registration on time and not get any penalties. You will not get the sticker mailed to you until the smog is passed. In CA all the smog stuff is transmitted electronically.

Another aside for this van in particular: This is a 2013 subject to the piston ring warranty extension (that has probably expired) but Muzzling the VCM may help the CAT last. Has the OP experienced any oil consumption? Might be a good idea to have a look at the spark plugs for premature fouling.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I didn't notice anything on excessive oil consumption. I used to change the oil when it's at 10-15% with the maintenance minder. Now, we change it every 6 months given we don't drive much. Oil is cheap but the other parts aren't. A number of mechanics has recommended to change at least 6 months.
 
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