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Discussion Starter #1
I seem to remember a post concerning the 2002 having a problem stopping. Can someone point me to it? My 2002 Ody and a Jaguar almost become one today!

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1996 Odyssey 120,000 miles
2002EX Odyssey w/towing package
http://www.homestead.com/weaverhouse/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Since I have had no reply I will just share the story. Please let me know if anyone else has experienced this!

After my 1,800 mile Christmas trip I was heading to get the road salt washed off of my 2002 Odyssey. The engine was warm and the van was unloaded from the trip. While stopping for a light I noticed that 10m.p.h. was as slow as I could get it. I pressed harder on the brakes and looked at the r.p.m. gauge. To my astonishment it was climbing higher and higher (and my foot was soley on the brake petal). As the engine hit about 2,200 r.p.m. (from a previous level of 1,000) the brake petal hit the floor board. I instinctivly reached for the right hand brake (being used to my 98' Odyssey) finding it missing, I opted to stear away from the Jaguar directly in front of me. The van finally decided to stop "racing" and downshift (or whatever) so that it finally stopped but not before the lady in the Jag freaked out and changed lanes to get away from me.

I have noticed this 4,000 lb. 'beast' is hard to stop before. I have also noticed it is hard to keep it still once stopped using light brake pressure. This incident scared me and I can stop thinking how I almost crashed into another car for the first time in my life and it was not even remotely my doing!

can someone please share if you have heard of or experienced this problem. I am leary about taking the car in the a shop and decribing what is sure to be a hard to repeat problem.

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1996 Odyssey 120,000 miles
2002EX Odyssey w/towing package
http://www.homestead.com/weaverhouse/index.html
 

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If you take it to the Hendricks Honda Store, aka Gwinnett Place Honda, you probably won't get a lot of satisfaction either.

Personally, I'd contact the Honda Regional Rep (they're in Alpharetta) and file a report with NHTSA. DUTCH

[This message has been edited by DUTCH (edited 12-30-2001).]
 

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If you ever find yourself in this situation again, in any vehicle not just your Odyssey, try to turn the engine off. Turning the ignition key one position to the accessory (I) position kills the engine but still leaves steering control (without power assist) but still manageable if the vehicle is rolling. Brake boost is maintained long enough to stop the vehicle in most cases even from highway speeds.

I've had a couple of incidents in years past shutting the engine down, one with a broken throttle return spring (wide open throttle, single return spring, '75 Opel Manta ) and a couple of others with ice forming on the throttle plate (throttle not returning to idle, '78 SAAB) so I speak with some experience.

Under the circumstances it's understandable how you may panic and forget thought.
 

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Mine stops exceptionally well, and don't have any complaints. The grade logic programming in the tranny takes some getting used to, but otherwise A-OK.

I can definatly understand your concern though. You might even want to consider throwing the gear shift lever up into neutral if you have time to think about it if it ever happens again.

Definatly log your concerns with Honda...

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2002 EXL-RES Redrock Pearl

2001 Chevy 2500HD crewcab 4x4
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Solution!

I took my 02' in for the transmission recall thing. Turns out not to need replacing (or whatever they were going to do) BUT they test drove it....and I think it finally happened to them (the thing where it revs over 2,000 rpm when stopping and will not drop out of gear. I say that must have happened, because I have had it in the shop 4x's for that problem (asking for downloaded software, anything that would address this problem but nothing was ever done.

This time they were begging me to let them take my transmission and ship it to Honda fluid and all for them to investigate that very problem!

I got my new transmission and had an interesting problem with a DRY dipstick that would take a whole new thread to explain.

Anyway, HONDA has my transmission and they are looking into that problem!!! FINALLY!!!
 

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sweaver:

I am glad you got a new not rebuild transmission from Honda. The dealer probably determined that some feedback from transmission to ECM is triggering higher RPM.

But still, like the '80 Audi 5000 fiasco, I think a good set of brakes should overcome a runaway engine and body weight.

Even with a new transmission, I would upgrade al brakes for better safety margin. We often end up in the middle of intersection with OEM brakes. Now my wife is (almost) braking like her '98 Civic.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
True about the brakes. Stopping that 4,200 beast can be hard when the engine is fighting you. A couple of times I had the petal to the floor with full antilock and the RPMs were still over 2,000 and I was stopped halfway into the intersection. (and my jaw was dropped open in shock)

I would not be surprised if Honda is not on the hook for a major recall on this. To me it is far worse than "gear wear" of whatever this last recall was about.

I even suspect that the recall may have been about this problem all along since it is safety related.
 

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sweaver said:
True about the brakes. Stopping that 4,200 beast can be hard when the engine is fighting you. A couple of times I had the petal to the floor with full antilock and the RPMs were still over 2,000 and I was stopped halfway into the intersection.
...
What happen if you move the gear selector to N ?
would the RPM jump to / past redline ?

I'm thinking the accelerator pedal is stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Each time it happened I was only concerned with getting the van stopped. The longest it ever lasted was about 5 seconds. No time to think about changing the gears, just keeping the brakes on the floor.
 

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I don't understand; if you got the antilock brake pulsation, then at least one of your wheels were stopped. Were your back wheels skidding? If yes, and this triggered the antilock brake system, does the pulsating act only on the skidding wheel? If it doesn't, this could cause a great deal of loss of stopping power if you are trying to stop against increased engine rpm while your antilock brake system is negating much of your pedal force. I think the antilock brakes work on each wheel independently, though. Can anyone verify this?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Anti-lock brakes or no anti-lock brakes, it is still possible to depress the brake petal all the way to the floor. In fact, it is easier with anti-lock brakes. Once the anti-lock starts maximizing the braking (via pulses you can feel or not) the petal strength means nothing anymore and it will allow it to go all the way to the floor. I have done it a few times (as I said before).

Try it sometime when it is safe.
 
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sweaver said:
Anti-lock brakes or no anti-lock brakes, it is still possible to depress the brake petal all the way to the floor. In fact, it is easier with anti-lock brakes. Once the anti-lock starts maximizing the braking (via pulses you can feel or not) the petal strength means nothing anymore and it will allow it to go all the way to the floor. I have done it a few times (as I said before).

Try it sometime when it is safe.
I've tried this numerous times and our pedal never goes to the floor. You likely have a problem in your braking system, maybe with the master cylinder or possibly something wrong with your ABS and/or its pump.

Wayne
 

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Wayne Lim said:
I've tried this numerous times and our pedal never goes to the floor.
Haven't try ABS modulation on the Odyssey. But on my 3 channel Toyota ABS, the pedal position does modulate up and down from the point where it triggered ABS. It gets pretty close but I don't think it actually touches the floor since there is no indention on the floor mat. There's probably a travel limiter somewhere.



accordian said:
I don't understand; if you got the antilock brake pulsation, then at least one of your wheels were stopped. Were your back wheels skidding? If yes, and this triggered the antilock brake system, does the pulsating act only on the skidding wheel? If it doesn't, this could cause a great deal of loss of stopping power if you are trying to stop against increased engine rpm while your antilock brake system is negating much of your pedal force.
If the pedal modulates, definitely at least 1 wheel skid is detected by ABS algorithm/sensors.

If one or both rear wheels is skidding, the braking distance will increase (assuming front brake force > engine torque).

With open throttle. If one of both front wheels is skidding, ABS modulation will actually allow a net forward force when ABS pump reduces line pressure. The end result is longer braking distance than closed throttle.
 

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any chance it is a severe vacuum leak at the brake booster or line? So much so that breaking is adversely affected, and engine actually gets some airflow via the vacuum line???

Real shot in the dark admittedly.
 
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