Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
When my 2010 i-VTEC engine was leaking oil onto the aternator I ordered spool valve gaskets on eBay which stopped the leak. Now my "new" 2011 Touring Elite is also leaking oil onto the alternator so I ordered another set of spool valve gaskets assuming they are the same for both years, but just wanted to double check. The ones I used on the 2010 and the ones I just ordered for the 2011 are genuine Honda parts 15815-R70-A01 and 15845-R70-A01. Am I correct in thinking the 2011 will take the same ones?

BTW, if anyone is like me and was thinking they had an oil leak from a valve cover gasket, the spool valve oil leak is common on high mileage i-VTEC Odysseys and I only found it because of advice on this forum. Thanks guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
489 Posts
I wouldn't assume they are the same since they're 2 different generations, but they might be.

An easy way to check is to just look the part up on a Honda dealership's online part site for both years/trims and see if the same part # comes back.
 

·
Registered
2016 Touring Elite
Joined
·
1,338 Posts
Honda has a TSB out on this leak - and it specifically states to replace the upper section of the VTEC solenoid / spool valve along with the gasket or there may be future leaks. Otherwise, yes, the gasket likely will work (though may leak sooner than you would like).

They probably made a minor change in the machining of the two halves and the new part seals better - but there is no way to really know without being inside the company.

-Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Honda has a TSB out on this leak - and it specifically states to replace the upper section of the VTEC solenoid / spool valve along with the gasket or there may be future leaks. Otherwise, yes, the gasket likely will work (though may leak sooner than you would like).

They probably made a minor change in the machining of the two halves and the new part seals better - but there is no way to really know without being inside the company.

-Charlie
Thanks, Charlie

I did have the TSB 20-023 which only gives the part number for the spool valve assembly and not the gaskets, but on your advice I did look up the assembly which led to hondapartsonline which also does not list the gaskets separately but it does list the same 15810-R70-A04 spool valve assembly for 2010 and 2011 i-VTEC engines so I think I am OK.

It is Interesting that TSB 20-023 tells the Honda mechanic to use half of a $230 assembly and throw the bottom half away leaving the old one in place, rather than just change the $12 gaskets that are leaking. Guess that's why service at a dealer is so expensive. It was a relatively easy job on my 2010 to change the gaskets and stop the leak so I think it will be the same on the 2011.

While I was on hondapartsonline.net I looked at the starter for which the local auto electric guys said no parts were available, and there they were and a brush plate is a mere $13. Too bad I had already ordered a reman from RockAuto that is due today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
2008-2017 same
Thanks for the video link. I'd forgotten how much has to be removed to change the gaskets, (or maybe I repressed the memory.) The TSB says 48 minutes and the video is a lot quicker than that, but I'll plan to leave myself a little more time for the job when my new gaskets arrive so I don't screw anything up..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
MrRanger's videos are the best. Clear, no talking, right to the point. Great stuff.
I agree, excellent video.

The gaskets came from the eBay seller yesterday and are sealed in Honda OEM packets, but some idiot had folded the packets over and stuffed them into a little box and put the box in a plastic mailing bag. The seller sent me a how-did-we-do email and I replied expressing displeasure in the packaging and strongly suggested thay lay them flat in a padded envelope the next time someone orders them.

It is too darn cold and icy to put them in right now, so I will have to wait for a warmer time to see if they survived the packaging and fix the ody's spool valve leak.

160469
160470
 

·
Registered
2016 Touring Elite
Joined
·
1,338 Posts
eBay? Pink poly bag? Those are likely knock-offs... Not OEM.


But they will likely fix the leak for a while...

-Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
eBay? Pink poly bag? Those are likely knock-offs... Not OEM.


But they will likely fix the leak for a while...

-Charlie
Thanks, phattyduck,

I installed gaskets I bought on eBay that came in similar packaging a year and a half ago on my 2010 Touring and they are still leak free after 15K miles, but you say these are fake? Clever Chinese, I suppose.

I read the other thread you referenced in which MrRangerZr1 also says, "The gaskets are not made by Honda, you have to buy them aftermarket, unfortunately. Honda actually discontinued the front VTEC assembly for some reason, they still have the rear assembly for sale." and he referenced gaskets sold by Amazon.

If eBay sourced gaskets are fake, what about those on Amazon in the links under Mr Ranger's video that do not show any packaging in the listing, fake or otherwise? Here are some comments left by buyers of those on Amazon.

1. My advice is to stay away from these and order the OEM Spool Valve Assembly, and grab the OEM gaskets out of that part. These aftermarket gaskets seemed like a great deal, but they end up being costly when you have to redo the repair and possibly fry your alternator when oil leaks down on/in it.

2. I started getting P3497 codes shortly after the installation. It wasn't until a few weeks later that I had the time to take things back apart to inspect my work. I was not pleased to see the condition of this gasket. The edges were bubbling and falling apart. I guess it's time to just replace the whole spool valve assembly with a new Honda OEM part. I probably should have just done that in the first place...

So if Honda does not make the gaskets, where does Honda get the gaskets that are in assembly 15810-R70-A04 that the TSB 20-023 says to use the top half of? They had to get gaskets from somewhere. Or does Honda not make the valve assembly either? It is still listed on Amazon as "genuine Honda" so does it have "genuine Honda" Gaskets? Even though Amazon lists the country of origin as China??

And then there are these gaskets shown in that other thread in a post by kaimanson:
160476

Are these the real deal from Honda or are they also fakes in different packaging? And if Honda does not have the gaskets separately, why do they have separate Honda part numbers?

This all seems like a crap shoot with fake gaskets presumed to be from China marked "Made in Japan" and Genuine Honda OEM spool valve assemblies that Amazon says come from China. All very confusing, but since I have gaskets that look similar to ones that worked in the 2010, I will cross my fingers and put them in the 2011 as soon as the weather gets up to freezing again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The weather finally warmed up enough to shovel the drive and get ready to replace my spool valve gaskets following Mr Ranger's excellent video, but ran into a snag or maybe a case of Murphy's law that says the repairman (or in this case you tube) will never have seen a model quite like yours. I got to the point of disconnecting the wiring on the left end of the loom running across the front of the engine and there is a section of wires running into a fuse box and then to the positive battery post that I do not see in the video. This is a 2011 Touring Elite.

I raised up the fuse box but I see nothing that disconnects from it.

I am at a loss on how to disconnect the wiring at that end in order to flip the loom over on the right side in order to get at the spool valve. Any suggestions?

160604
160605
 

·
Registered
2016 Touring Elite
Joined
·
1,338 Posts
It will stay connected. Just unclip the loom protector from the metal bracket and move the wiring assembly out of the way. You may have to unplug it from a few more items on the driver's side of the engine to allow enough room for it to move. It will stay connected to the fuse box.

-Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
489 Posts
Looks like my '12 EX-L is leaking from this area too. I happened to be in the driveway when my wife pulled up and parked it the other day and got a slight wiff of burning oil. I can see oil all around the dipstick and spool valve area. I can see some residue on the alternator too, hoping I can fix it before the alternator goes out. For you guys that have had this leak, were you able to save the alternator by fixing the leak? Or should I expect to have the alternator give up on me soon?

I ordered the OEM spool valve and will put it in as soon as it gets here.

160661
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,402 Posts
alternator looks wet, sooner the spool valve is changed the better chance it has, dont rinse or spray water or de-greasers on the alternator to clean it.

do as much as you can with rags and compressed air, then leave it be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
It will stay connected. Just unclip the loom protector from the metal bracket and move the wiring assembly out of the way. You may have to unplug it from a few more items on the driver's side of the engine to allow enough room for it to move. It will stay connected to the fuse box. -Charlie
Thanks Charlie,

I found a video by cubmancan at
showing removing the metal bracket and disconnecting the coils to get enough slack in the wiring loom to access the valve without disconnecting the left side. That worked and wasn't too bad. What was bad was that the lower gasket from eBay did not want to fit into the grooves in lower body around where the little metal screen goes. I removed the old screen from the old gasket and measured its width and it was the same as the new one, but the new one was wider across the rubber part around the screen because the slit in the rubber part that the edge of the screen fits into was not deep enough. I had to use a scalpel to carefully cut the slit in the new gasket deeper so the rubber would push far enough over the edges of the screen to fit into the body. I found it had to be about 0.400" between the inner edges of the rubber at the screen to fit in the grooves and the gasket as received was 0.450" there. I eventually got it to fit in and put everything back together and so far so good
 

·
Registered
2016 Touring Elite
Joined
·
1,338 Posts
What was bad was that the lower gasket from eBay did not want to fit into the grooves in lower body around where the little metal screen goes.
So, do you promise to use OEM parts next time? :whistle:

Let's hope the repair lasts!

-Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So, do you promise to use OEM parts next time? :whistle:

Let's hope the repair lasts!

-Charlie
The eBay gaskets I bought for my 2010 Touring fit fine and have been working for almost two years and 15K miles. This time was not quite as good an experience, but I hope these gaskets will perform equally well after the tweak I had to make - time will tell.

Lets see. $250 for an OEM Honda Spool Valve assembly or $12 for eBay gaskets? Tough choice, but I'd probably risk it again and pay myself the $238+ for my labor.;)
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top