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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long-time lurker, and I've often referred to threads on to forum to help me troubleshoot some of the issues I've had with my 2006 Ody. I thought I'd like to share what I found out with my SRS light coming on and the past week of when the deferred maintenance comes calling it's tab due.

TL;DR 2 years of deferred maintenance comes due within a 2 week time period, almost a new issue coming up every 2-3 days. I'm able to fix everything with help from the forum and experience.

I'm a retired mechanic, semi-retired from work and have a part-time job. I try to keep my vehicle safe and road-worthy. Currently, we're prepping the house to get ready to move come Spring and my honey-do list is a mile long and I've been spending more time on everything house-related and doing what I can to get by with the van until I can set aside a day or so to adjust valves, TB&WP, end links, replace some various dry-rotted hoses and various seals and gaskets that seep. Basically give the van a good once-over with parts that have been sitting on my shelf for several months.

My 18 year-old daughter is still on her learner's permit (she's a late bloomer), and hasn't ventured out onto the road much; she's been driving in town for a few months, but not a lot of time behind the wheel. The other day she asked my wife to go on a drive with her down to the park, since the weather was nice. They both get into the van, and my wife calls me on the phone to come out to the van. My daughter rolls down the window, and points at the dash, and says "Should I worry about this?" She had gotten used to seeing the other lights on the cluster that come on with vehicles that have a lot of miles on them... the CEL was on for an EVAP code I haven't chased down yet, the Slide Door light on because the power door on the left side acts cantankerous when the weather turns colder... you get the idea. My van has almost 300K miles on it, and it's been a great vehicle, but she's getting long in the tooth.

I tell her, "Just go to the park, and don't get into a crash where you need the airbags." My wife rolled her eyes, and my daughter laughed nervously.

So they came back, and I got busy over the past few days, and I was driving with the stupid SRS light on. I read through the threads, and used the manual method of reading the codes with a wire via the connector by the fuse panel in the driver's kick panel. What I came up with was a 7-1, and that pointed me toward the SRS module, or from what I gleaned. I just have had a lot of stuff going on, and didn't really do the deep dive like I used to do when I was turning wrenches for a living. I was doing math in my mind, and trying to remember if I saw an SRS module in the pick-n-pull yard I was at a few months ago to get some various odds and ends for the van (an armrest that was in great shape, the middle jump seat my van never had, some trim panels, etc). Mainly, I was kind of dreading whether or not I was going to have to get a new old stock SRS unit and how much that was going to set me back.

I was on the way back from a trip drop my wife off at my in-laws 2 weeks ago and the CEL started flashing while I was going 70 MPH on the interstate, and I pulled over to the first exit I came to. I was 121 miles from home, and there was an O'Reilly's auto parts 3.4 miles away that closed at 9 PM and it was currently 7 PM. I made a calculated gamble and drove very cautiously to the parts store and in their parking lot used their OBD reader to find out that I had a P0301 and P0302. It was very slow that time of night at the store and I was the only customer, so one of the employees came outside and was chatting with me while I popped open the hood and started to troubleshoot. With the engine on, I removed the connector for #1, no change in the engine idle "OK, that's a problem." Pulled #2, with again no change. Checked #3 for good measure and the engine almost died. So I knew I was dealing with 2 problematic cylinders. Thankfully, they had 2 coil packs in stock, however they would gladly sell you the tools you need to repair your vehicle. At that point, I just wanted to get home, but thankfully all you need for the coil packs is a 6mm hex head and a 3/8" socket. So I pulled out coil #1 and did a visual inspection. It wasn't in terrible shape, just some slight browning but no wet oil. I pulled #2 and it was pretty moist. I figured that #2 was the problem child, but before I put in both coil packs I decided to pull the plugs.

Turns out that I had a piece of the porcelain on the tip of #1 that was cracked off and some oil buildup, partially from the leaking spark plug tube seal and the fact that I hadn't changed the resistor value from the original Muzzler that I installed years ago. (I have to change the resistor depending on the season here). So I was pretty certain that the cracked spark plug was the problem child for cylinder #1 and the coil pack for cylinder #2. Knowing I had a set of new plugs sitting on my shelf, I just got 2 of the E3 spark plugs, and chuckled when I said, "Hey, these are the same plugs I run in my lawn mower." 馃槃 I didn't care at that point, I was ready to get home, and get some sleep and that's what I did.

Fast-forward to 4 days later when I pick my wife up from the in-laws and we're both headed back home (300 mile round-trip). As we're about 1/4 mile from getting on the interstate, I heard a strange grinding sound coming from the rear when we were coming to a red light, and I didn't say anything to my wife, but I knew I heard it. We get going down the interstate, no grinding noise and she said "Hey, can we stop at the rest area? I have to go to the bathroom." Sure, we can do that... as we're pulling into the rest area, I applied the brakes and heard that grinding noise again and she heard it too. "What is that?!" she said. "Well, it can't be the brakes, I put new Centric pads and rotors on in March of last year." We pulled into a parking spot, and there's definitely grinding noise coming from the rear.

She and I get out, and I took out my pocket flashlight and spied that there's no visible pad material on the outer pad of the rear brakes, and a slight abrasion visible on the rear disc toward the outer edge. I did a quick check of the front and I was at 5mm'ish, but the rear was done. I was really shocked, because I normally get 2-3 years out of pads, but the Centric pads, especially the rear ones only lasted 18 months; but hey, I have 0 issues with "rotor warp" (even though it's not warpage). LOVE Centric parts. Anyway, I placed an order for a new set of pads, and thanks to Amazon Prime, they were at my house the next day, and I did a rear pad swap in my driveway; crisis averted.

The CEL lights up on my way into work yesterday and the engine was running kind of rough. Thankfully, I am off Tue-Thur so I can spend some time figuring out what is going on with this dang vehicle and eat my BBQ for Thanksgiving! I stopped by O'Reilly's and borrowed their scan tool and had a P0497 and P0455, and that's another reason I figured the CEL was coming on, but again, I have put the EVAP troubleshooting on the back burner because the plate was full. Usually not the reason for rough idle; I cleared the codes and went to work, and came home again. This afternoon, my wife tells me that we need to pick up food she ordered for Thursday's dinner, so we get into the van for the trip to the restaurant and make our way there and get some good-smelling food and head back to the house when the CEL starts flashing and goes into limp-home mode. 馃槚

We get near our house where my local O'Reilly's is (it's literally 1 mile from our house) and I ask to use their scan tool again. Now I get P0497 X2 P0302, P0304, P0305, P0300. Goodness gracious! We get home, and I tell my wife that I was going to break out the tools and see if I can figure out what's going on with the front bank. The P0302 had me scratching my head, because that's where the new coil pack was, and if cylinder 4 was acting up the others would set if the engine wasn't running optimally or erratically which was the case on the limp-home drive with the hot food and the upset wife. 馃槙

I pulled the coil pack off of #4 and a the hard coil comes out, but the insulator stays inside of the tube around the plug. 馃槪 I laughed out loud at my luck; this wasn't going to be easy to get but just be aggravating to remove with pick tools. I inspected the coil pack, and sure enough, there's a crack about 1" long from the bottom of the coil up. I took it inside to show my wife, and she said "Sit down, I'm going to make you something to eat." So while I was at the table eating and taking a break from the stressful ride home and finding out something wrong with the van, I was joking with my daughter about borrowing her bike to walk to the parts store, or asking my neighbor if he'd give me a ride. I said "I know what I'll do! I'll just wrap it in electrical tape!" and that's what I did. I wrapped the coil pack cracked end with electrical tape, put it back into the tube and started the engine up. I told my wife I was going to go to the parts store and to get a pick set (because a few of them had gone missing) from Harbor Freight. I drove to HF and saw that they had a scan tool that was similar to the Innova 5300LaT that O'Reilly's has for their stores, but with a lot more features. I figured that since I had long-since sold my Snap On MODIS and it was really a PITA to diagnose CEL issues, I needed to get a scanner. So I purchased a pick set (what I went there for) and a Zurich ZR15S and I headed to O'Reilly's to get the rest of the stuff I needed to fix a few more maintenance items.

While I'm standing in line, this guy comes in with a shopping cart and he's got 2 old batteries in a shopping cart, and he's being helped by another associate who was being trained, and I overheard that they offer store credit for old batteries, not cores. I thought "Hey, we just got rid of that golf cart, but I've got 6 batteries in my shed that I wasn't sure what I was going to do with. Would I be able to get $60?" She replied that I would, so I went home, loaded up my batteries in the van, got store credit and paid $8.01 for some P/S fluid, some Permatex (since I don't have any Hondabond right now) and a coil pack and returned home finally.

I opened up the Zurich, read through the manual, and played with the scanner for about 30 minutes, looking at live data, freeze frames and other rudimentary PID's. I found that the P0304 was no longer present, nor were the EVAP codes that I had cleared earlier in the day. Perhaps it hasn't run the test yet, but the neat thing is that I was able to send the request to have the test run, we'll see if the fixes I tried earlier in the day before we left worked. I was happy to see that the code that was set for the SRS was a P71-20. There was a great thread between @John Clark and @bennyhana42, and when I read that he would refer to the seat position sensor as the "Grover sensor" I laughed heartily. I think it may have been the lack of sleep that I've had over the past 2 weeks, the stress of prepping for a move, car trouble, etc. I needed that laugh. More to the point, that thread gave me a good point to start with, and I walked outside where it was 38掳 and dropping. I popped my head underneath the driver's seat and couldn't see anything visibly wrong with the wires, but I couldn't get my hand all the way underneath the seat. I pretended I was my daughter or my wife in the seat, and moved it all the way up and forward. As it started moving forward, both the green and the blue wires popped out of the wire loom, and showed me bare copper. 馃槼 I suspect that the 15 year-old electrical tape around the loom came loose, the wires came out and the small bracket that is just to the right of the seat track (it's just behind the sensor in this picture) was what was needed for the wires to catch on when my daughter moved the seat up and "near" to the steering wheel. Dang Grover sensor 馃榿 At least that's an easy fix, but that's going to have to wait until the morning when it warms up a bit and after I get some coffee in my veins.

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If I were you, I'd try to source some OE coils. The parts store junk isn't very trustworthy.
 

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I didn鈥檛 read your post carefully (too long), but remember often SRS issues are covered by a lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn鈥檛 read your post carefully (too long), but remember often SRS issues are covered by a lifetime warranty.
Understandable, that's why I included a TLDR. The most relevant portion was the fact that the electrical tape on the wire loom allowed the wires to fall out of the loom. In the course of my daughter moving the seat forward, and then moving it back into position for me, they apparently got hung up on a seat bracket underneath the seat, and were sheared apart away from the connector. That would not be covered under warranty. You'd most certainly be charged 1 hr of diag time and some time for the tech to repair it, which I did in a few minutes once I removed the driver's seat, or at least unbolted it enough to tip it back and expose the wires.

Have a great Thanksgiving!
 
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