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Stabilizer end link removal problem

3013 Views 51 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  celicool
I'm, trying, to replace my stabilizer bar end links. One is bad, the other isn't. I thought as long as I'm doing it, I might as well do both.

I started with the passenger side. I can't get the nut off of the top bolt. I tried an impact wrench. That loosened it, but it will only come off so far. I tried using a socket, that's not doing any good. Tried using my hand, not working. It's like the thing is stripped. All it does is turn and turn but the nut isn't coming out any further. I thought about penetrating oil, but all I have is 3 in 1. Any ideas?
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If that allen-keyed stud rusty, the inside will be stripped. This is a suspension part, exposed to lots of elements, why couldn't bright Honda engineers add a boot or a cap to lessen exposure and rust build up? Or make it stainless?
I tried the Allen key on the top one, didn't do squat...the nut just spun and spun. I don't see how it would make a difference on the lower one if it didn't make a difference on the top one.
The right tools mean everything. There is no comparison between an Allen key and an Allen key ratchet. If your Allen key was a .22 Cal, my Allen key ratchet is a .45 Cal.
You guys are not the only ones who ever deal with it. Quit saying you can't do--it's a self-fulfilling prophecy. If you can't even cut it, then one must wonder what else you can't do!
I remember ETCG had a heck of a time with those in his steering rack video. I forget what he did that finally got them off.
I remember ETCG had a heck of a time with those in his steering rack video. I forget what he did that finally got them off.
Eric (on youtube) used wise-grip pliers, gas torch and impact wrench.
I don't even have air-powerded tools. All my power comes from swearing. And favorite drinks.
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You have to hold the nut still while you rotate the stud. It will spin forever because it is shaped like a ball on the inside and is loose in the socket from normal use. Failing the allen/wrench combo, I would try vise grips on the back of the stud so you can turn the nut.
Eric (on youtube) used wise-grip pliers, gas torch and impact wrench.
That's a winning combination for sure.
Eric (on youtube) used wise-grip pliers, gas torch and impact wrench.
I don't even have air-powerded tools. All my power comes from swearing. And favorite drinks.
In my experience, power of swearing is often under appreciated/estimated.
I say, burn off the rubber boot on the other side, try to grab the bolt there so that it does not spin around and try to spin the bolt or try to cut the bolt from the other side.

Now, for the bottom one NOT turning.. more penetrating oil and if you are not opposed to it, just try using the pump jack to pop that spinning. (Of course, do be careful...) Now, how DID ETCG get the impact wrench on that thing? It does not look like there is much room back there but if there IS a room, just rent Milwaukee 2767 from home depot and give THAT a shot?
I managed to get it off. I had to cut through it with a hacksaw. It took probably close to an hour. I have no idea what happened to the rest of the bolt. I looked for it and couldn't find it. If you look at the bolt, I had sprayed darn near half a bottle of penetrating oil on the two bottom bolts, and it's still that rusted. After I got the top on off, I noticed the entire bolt was covered in something white. I assume that is some sort of loctite, or something like it. Assuming the bottom bolt had the same stuff on it, between the rust and the loctite, I'm guessing that's why I couldn't get it to budge. BTW, the top part had little to no rust on it.


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What I originally thought would an hour or twos job, turned into a three day job. I finally got the other one off and new one on. Had to hack through both screws on the passenger side. I know that's not the best of pics...my hands were too unsteady from the cold, it's 38 and misting, wind chill is about 32...to get a good pic. If you look at the one on the bottom of the pic, that's the bolt from the top. That white stuff...which I assume is some kind of loctite...was all over both bolts. It almost looked like plumbers tape to me, but probably isn't. Between that and the rust, those bolts wouldn't move even a tiny bit. Look at the one on top...that's the bolt from the bottom side...I almost stripped it trying to get it off. I bet I watched a half dozen videos on how to do the job. In every single one they just took a ratchet and socket to it and took it right off...no Allen wrench, nothing else. That's how I assumed it was done. I could get an Allen wrench into it, hold it solid, and still couldn't get the nuts to turn
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I bet I watched a half dozen videos on how to do the job. In every single one they just took a ratchet and socket to it and took it right off...no Allen wrench, nothing else.
Yeah, I've seen those videos too. :rolleyes: Now you have the experience to know that it rarely goes that easily in the real world.

Tip of the hat brother for getting it done, and in the cold weather to boot. (y)
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One of the videos I watched, probably the first one I watched, is that MrRangerZ1...or something like that...that I've seen post on here. He just whipped that thing off with an impact wrench for the top nut/bolt, ratchet and socket for the bottom...without using an Allen key. How, I don't know. Worst part really is, after fighting it for the better part of two days, I resorted to old fashioned hacksaw. If I had used that from the beginning, I would've gotten it done the first day.
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One of the videos I watched, probably the first one I watched, is that MrRangerZ1...or something like that...that I've seen post on here. He just whipped that thing off with an impact wrench for the top nut/bolt, ratchet and socket for the bottom...without using an Allen key. How, I don't know. Worst part really is, after fighting it for the better part of two days, I resorted to old fashioned hacksaw. If I had used that from the beginning, I would've gotten it done the first day.
Every time I watch his video, it AMAZES me how clean his engine compartment and under the car suspension parts are.
Also, how his bolts just magically just comes right off.
Don't get me wrong, yes, his videos are very informative, but I SWEAR that he regularly takes all the bolts off and clean them up and put them back on with some anti-seize.
Every time I watch his video, it AMAZES me how clean his engine compartment and under the car suspension parts are.
Also, how his bolts just magically just comes right off.
Don't get me wrong, yes, his videos are very informative, but I SWEAR that he regularly takes all the bolts off and clean them up and put them back on with some anti-seize.
But he wasn't the only one that didn't use an Allen wrench. None of the videos I watched did. I know several were taking off the OEM end links because I could see the blue dots on them. Still don't know how they did it.

The ones I put on it are MOOG...no Allen wrench needed for installation or removal.
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A powerful enough impact can zip them off fast enough. I can't fit mine on the bottom back and have to use the 19mm wrench and right angle driver to remove
Impact wrench uses hammering action and inertia so it's very different than using hand tools. When I did my end links I ended up using an angle grinder and cutting them off after some struggles.
I had a tie rod seized one time. Used my air compressor and cut off tool...a must have!!
Well, yes. I'm not sure if cutting it on the outside would accomplish the task.
Are we still going around and around regarding the stab links?
Oh my.
Just cut then off like everyone else does.
Then install new ones, and move on with life to the next problem.
:p
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I'm up here in MN, I cut all of mine off with a sawzall. Once they get 7+ years old, that's the only way to get them off.
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