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Discussion Starter #1
2002 about to reach 200k miles last few days after my commute about 45 minutes the car just decides to stall out. I adjusted the IAC because it was idling around 1200. Used throttle body cleaner on the throttle body. Tested the pgm fi relay. Tested fine. Tested the fuel pressure and was actually high about 57. Tested the fuel regulator works fine. I have no clue what it could be. No engine codes and charging system is fine. Help me fellow ody owners
 

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Did the electrical system seem to be still online after the engine stalled? e.g. dash indicator lights on, radio and blower still running, etc? Did the engine restart?
 

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Did the electrical system seem to be still online after the engine stalled? e.g. dash indicator lights on, radio and blower still running, etc? Did the engine restart?
Yes but it didn’t restart right away had to wait like ten minutes
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, after the fuel pressure tested at 57, it still didn't start?

Buffalo4
Still started I was trying to find the cause of the stalling and tried to locate a culprit. The car has no problem or delayed starts only time it doesn’t start is after it has stalled. I just wait ten 15 minutes and it drives fine like nothing. Happened
 

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Could be main relay with bad solder joints.
 

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I too still suspect the main relay.

The relay could test okay when cold. Problem is that the high fuel pump power running through the solder joints warms them up, and can open them completely if they have even a microscopic crack.

There's no need to replace it. Just reflow the solder joints.
 

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The main relay failure in my 2002 was exactly as described, stalling while driving, starting fine once it sat for a while.
The solder joints were reflowed the same day it first happened and it has not happened since. I kept a new aftermarket one in the van for about a year and then put it in the 2003 my daughter drives.

My Idle Air Control Valve failure was: stumbling and diving coming to a stop. Intermittent, it would happen and then not happen again for months. Once it started happening weekly, I had it replaced. On that 2003, it failed while still in warranty. My wife said the van would die driving slowly in parking lots. When the IACV is not working properly, the idle will jump up & down when the A/C compressor cycles as well, as that valve controls idle in many situations.

Way back in the olden days, there was also a fix related to the power steering where a wire would fray and become loose and that would also cause the idle to jump up & down because that wire sent signals to the IACV to compensate
for the load of the power steering pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Replaced the Relay and idle air control and car is still stalling randomly only other thing I can think of is the PCM is going bad
 

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Might sound like an odd question, but does your temperature gauge read correctly when it stalls?

A faulty ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor could wrongly signal a cold engine to the PCM, which could then call for too much fuel to run or start the engine.

Honestly, I've never heard of a sending unit failing this way, but such a failure could explain the hot-engine stalling and subsequent no-start.

FWIW, the temperature sending unit is one item on my list of stuff to automatically change every 150,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ECT is correct used a temperature gun and scan tool and they were the same but the sending unit might explain why the fuel pressure is in the mid 50psi range
 

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Fuel pressure on a 2002-2004 should be 42-48 psi Pressure with regulator vacuum hose disconnected.
Just got that out of the book and don't know any more about it. Page 2-5 in the Service Manual.
I would still bet that it is the main relay. Just because you tested it once and it passed doesn't mean it is good.
I suppose if you take it out and test it with a heat gun blowing on it you 'might' find a failure in a solder joint, but if you go through all that trouble, just 're-flow' the solder joints. Not sure if they use a heat gun or ?, but look it up.
The key to my believing it is the Main Relay is that it takes around 10-15 with the engine off before it will restart again and then be fine.
Buffalo4
 

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Random stalling and hard to start could be due to a failing crankshaft positioning sensor. Its wiring or the sensor itself. Although you usually get a code for it.
 

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Dave's reference to engine temperature caught my attention. I have a family member living out of town with a 2004 civic who recently called me in a panic because her Honda wouldn't start. Her symptoms were that it would crank and try to start but it wouldn't go. Prior to calling me a helpful bystander suggested she call a " battery shop" just around the corner which she did. A short while later the battery shop technician showed up and suggested her battery was ok. At this time she turned the key and sure enough it started. The battery guy suggested she drive straight to an independant garage that he would call and they would have a quick look at the car. The update I got was a bracket failed on her rad causing it to drop a bit causing the rad hose to kink. The mechanic told her when he first got in the car the temp gauge was railed high which pointed him in the right direction. I was hesitant at first at this explanation but now think that the high temperature was affecting fuel delivery, does this make any sense? Anyways 3 days now and the car seems fine, the shop billed her $75.00, not too bad. Now I wait for the next panic call,,
 
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