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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there guys, I got a 99 Ody which is getting quite old now. Gas prices now days...
Anyways, My Odyssey has got 106xxx Miles on it, and it just stalls out of nowhere. It has happened once before, just 2 weeks ago, now it just happened today, TWICE in 2 HOURS. Everything in the speedometer area shuts down, but the headlight lights work(When manually switched on). I've heard the Ign. Switch is faulty on these things, but some places tell that other things can be the issue. So the main thing is that the first time this happened, I was able to fire it right back up. Now I had to wait at least over 1 minute.I tried starting it right after it stalled, but it would just start and stall right after like 3-5 times.(Stalled-->Put to Neutral-->Fire it-->nope-->A minute after --> fire it--> YES!)
So NO Trouble Codes or anything.
I tried making this question as simple as I could. I appreciate everybody's help. thanks in advance. Also, according to the guy, My dad says has not changes the spark plugs in the past 8 years or 52xxxmiles.(now he is scared of a seized plug)
 

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Sure sounds like the electrical part of the ignition switch. Where in Canada are you?
 

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2011 Odyssey LX, 120k miles
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Definitely sounds like the ignition switch, especially with the instrument cluster going dark.

There was a recall on that, and last time I checked, Honda will replace it under recall/warranty (free) if it is the problem.

Honda TSB 02-031 covers the switch recall. Google for that and read the section for your car (page 6).

Here's what I would do:
First contact a local dealer to get confirmation that they'll replace the switch under recall/warranty for free.

In the upper right picture on page 6, the "electrical switch" is indicated. Your immediate goal is to inspect that, not replace it. So don't follow all the instructions there, just do what's needed to get access to that switch. If you can't tell from the drawing, the electrical switch is on the left side of the steering column, directly across from where the key goes (in line with the key). The key goes into the "ignition switch body" in that drawing.

Then undo the two screws shown in the drawing so you can partially remove the switch itself. Carefully (so you don't snap anything off or let springs fly out) open it up so you can see inside. If the switch is failing, you'll see burned/melted contacts inside the switch. If that is the case, close it back up and you can confidently take it into the dealer for a free replacement.

If your local dealers won't honor the recall, then after confirming the problem (above), buy a new switch and follow the full instructions in that TSB.

My '99 with 180k+, owned since new, had a new switch under the recall at ~55k. Then I paid for my own replacement some time after that (dealer denied free replacement and I did not know that they were supposed to do it). Then recently, I thought it was failing again, so I re-checked and confirmed that they'd warranty it. But I followed the steps above and found it was not the switch after all.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oldskewel said:
Definitely sounds like the ignition switch, especially with the instrument cluster going dark.

There was a recall on that, and last time I checked, Honda will replace it under recall/warranty (free) if it is the problem.

Honda TSB 02-031 covers the switch recall. Google for that and read the section for your car (page 6).

Here's what I would do:
First contact a local dealer to get confirmation that they'll replace the switch under recall/warranty for free.

In the upper right picture on page 6, the "electrical switch" is indicated. Your immediate goal is to inspect that, not replace it. So don't follow all the instructions there, just do what's needed to get access to that switch. If you can't tell from the drawing, the electrical switch is on the left side of the steering column, directly across from where the key goes (in line with the key). The key goes into the "ignition switch body" in that drawing.

Then undo the two screws shown in the drawing so you can partially remove the switch itself. Carefully (so you don't snap anything off or let springs fly out) open it up so you can see inside. If the switch is failing, you'll see burned/melted contacts inside the switch. If that is the case, close it back up and you can confidently take it into the dealer for a free replacement.

If your local dealers won't honor the recall, then after confirming the problem (above), buy a new switch and follow the full instructions in that TSB.

My '99 with 180k+, owned since new, had a new switch under the recall at ~55k. Then I paid for my own replacement some time after that (dealer denied free replacement and I did not know that they were supposed to do it). Then recently, I thought it was failing again, so I re-checked and confirmed that they'd warranty it. But I followed the steps above and found it was not the switch after all.
Hi oldskewel, what then was the problem, if it wasn't the switch?(the exact thing I'm worried of, as my ODY is currently out of warranty with 106 miles.
thanks, for your time & help.
 

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molsoncanadian, This may have nothing to do with your problem, but I had a 1990 Acura Legend that would be running fine, then just die. Dealer replaced (or said he replaced) the crank angle sensor for hundreds of dollars. I don't even know if your Ody has one of those, but that solved our problem.
 

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My sister has a '99 that they purchased new, and last year it experienced the same issue (random stalling while driving).

We thought the same thing - electrical portion of the ignition switch, which had already been replaced once several years prior. Well, we changed out the electrical portion and it still did it. Separating the electrical section from the mechanical part of the switch, with the electrical section laying down below the dash, made the problem disappear.

So the problem was definitely the mechanical portion of the switch, even though there was nothing else on the key ring to weigh it down which is often a problem. I was really surprised as I would never have guessed that the mechanical portion was responsible for such intermittent problems but it was. It must have had enough wear on it that it was pushing on the electrical portion in a way that caused intermittent contacts.

We opted not to re-key all of the other doors, so now my sister has a door key and (new) ignition key. One of the original keys still inside the original ignition cylinder is hidden inside the dash to allow the security system to work (didn't want to pay the dealer to reprogram the security system to recognize the new key).

TIP: If you're going to spend $ on a part, may I recommend getting the complete ignition switch assembly? It includes the electrical section as well and you can't buy just the mechanical portion. So if you start by buying the electrical section, you may be buying it again if it turns out that you need the whole thing replaced.

Also, if you really want to keep the same key, you can get the ignition switch assembly along with three matched lock cylinders for the doors - check around at online dealers for the best prices which vary widely. You'll have additional labor to get into the two front doors and rear hatch to change out the lock cylinders. And then you'll have to schedule a visit with the dealership so your security module can be reprogrammed.

And you won't be able to drive your vehicle to the dealer to get this done unless you use the old key and lock cylinder temporarily plugged into the security module (like my sister's car has "permanently" done underneath the dash).

Sorry for the long post but I hope it helps!
 

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Mine was the ignition switch, a couple times it wouldn't start and twice it died while driving. The part was cheap and it was easy enough to replace, been 8 months or so and no more issues. I could make it stall by wiggling the key. The switch internals didn't look too bad and nothing showed burned.
 
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