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That said, I can't stress enough to check for a dragging caliper, which can be a caliper or a flex hose. Easy to diagnose, as it will be much hotter. Of note, the fronts are normally hotter than the rears.

I've had this mystery vibration happen on a Ford, a BMW, and a Chrysler. BTW, I found the first one, a BMW, with an infrared thermometer. Finding the second one, was easier than the first. The third one was a piece of cake!
 

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It seems you need a fresh set of eyes on this so while this is going to be a little lengthy read, please prepare to document everything you do and in what order; it's for your own good. However, I do have some suggestions and if it does not help you then I hope someone else can benefit from reading this in the future.

That clunking is clearly horrific but I suspect the axles, wheel bearings, steering rack and tie rods are not to blame...but that's just an opinion. If any of those were clunking like that I would think you should really be able to notice the extreme play very easily.

1 - Did you replace Sway Bar bushings & links? Make sure entire front end is in the air when tightening sway bar links. Without the entire front end in the air there will always be excess tension on the sway bar and if you try to tighten sway bar links on one side while the other is on the ground you will input a little extra tension when the car settles on the ground. With both end links disconnected from the sway bar, it should move up and down freely so now you can get a pry-bar and check the bushings.

2 - I would take an afternoon, jack up entire front end and remove everything you replaced:
  • struts
  • lower control arms
  • outer tie rods [from knuckle only] unless
  • sway bar links
Also, make sure to check. Literally. Every. Single. Bolt. from any engine/transmission mount and steering rack to ensure they are all actually tightened properly.

3 - By the sound of things, it would seem there is too much tension on some suspension component; this can happen either because you tightened something completely when you should not have [top of struts when vehicle is on the ground, or sway bar links as mentioned above].

4 - Remember to take a hub-to-fender measurement while vehicle is on the ground on both driver & passenger side. This way when you go to tighten the lower control arms you can do so while jacking up each side hub to ensure the control arms are not 'functioning' way beyond their stretch capacity, which in turn will cause premature wear and other issues.

5 - I would also consider checking the struts. Jack only 1 side at a time for this: grab where the strut connects to the hub and see if there is any play...those 2 bolts can often times come a little loose; check both sides. Next, raise entire front end on non-harbor-freight jack stands and remove then take apart the struts to ensure there is nothing happening there that should not be. The top mount bearings are usually terrible on these vans or sometimes the top nut may not be tightened properly. I would do this even if you installed a pre-assembled strut. Remember to tighten the top 3 nuts of the struts only once the vehicle is on the ground on its own weight.

6 - I will also go ahead and mention this just for fun: with the van on it's own weight on the ground if you rock the engine as hard as you can and have someone else check the play in the engine mounts? Hopefully you already checked every single bolt/nut on every engine/transmission mount. While the van is on the ground get a block of wood [6" 2x4 works fine] and jack up the engine/transmission from a safe point and see if you can replicate that clunking; obviously do not go crazy and send the drivetrain into the firmament but this method [along with another person] can help check mounts.

Please remember to document in a notebook or something everything you do on each vehicle: it will help you later, I promise...and if you do so already then fantastic! I would also recommend that any time you do anything on the front end of a car to have both sides on proper jack stands.

[long-shot] you wouldn't happen to be in AZ would you?

fwiw: it sounds like control arms or struts...but 🤷‍♀️
I don't know if we are talking about a clunk or a vibration at this point. If it's vibration there's a tool for NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) that locates vibrations.

In reading some of the comments I don't recall anyone asking you to check your tires for a separation "bubble". That probably won't show up on a wheel balancer. This condition will get worse pretty quickly, maybe in a hundred miles or so. Eventually the tire will come apart. Before that happens, that tire will run a bit hotter than it's opposite tire, after driving a while at speed, before it fails. I limped for a hundred miles to the nearest city to get a new tire, when this happened to me.

If it's a clunk, I don't recall anyone recommending a good hard look at the sway bar bushings (or links). I had a bad sway bar bushing that frequently would cause an annoying clunk. It took me a while to find it, but replacing them made the clunk vanish.
 

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Believe he tried alternative set of tires. He’s got to figure out the clunk noise as it’s likely related to the vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
Believe he tried alternative set of tires. He’s got to figure out the clunk noise as it’s likely related to the vibration.
Checked the subframe bolts and the front bolts were little bit loose, probably 1/4 turn loose. Clunk and vibration still there.
 

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I'm assuming it was on hoist . Did anyone notice any wobble underneath? I to was able to tighten my subframe bolts . It made the front end seem more "solid" but my steering wheel vibration is still there . I had a scheduled appointment with my works Honda dealership. I was swamped on Friday with waiters and couldn't get away from shop until like 1pm and it was to late so I have a appointment for Monday . Things I'm going to check with Honda . Is there a new software level for trans control module. Torque converter lock up issues .why is it so bad at 70mph and not 83mph . I've had 22"s 20"s 17" winter's on steelies stock 16"s on all with the steering wheel shake to some degree on this van . I don't mind doing struts and wheel bearings . But I want results at this time . Van rides great up to 65mph when steering wheel starts to shake and gets horrible at 70mph then clears up at 82mph . Really odd . My wife says just drive 55mph . I laughed and said I would go crazy . 70mph is the highway speed I was made for and desire . We will see I will keep u posted .
 

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I've read all his posts on this and he has replaced axles with OEM Honda's maybe one is bad on arrival? I on the other hand used new cardone . Why would bad motor mounts cause this steering wheel shake at 70mph only . If they are bad wouldn't there be a bad shake in body at idle ?
 

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Sometimes you figure out what's wrong by ruling things out. Taking the wheels off and running it in the air narrows it down to very little. High speed shakes or vibrations are usually axle related and running it this way leaves very little else that it could be.

A worn motor mount could be fine at idle but move around due to a small amount of vibration from the spinning axles at speed.
 

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Why do tree leaves start to fall in September?

That's just how it is.
 

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Here's a not so wag (wild ass guess).

The reason for the 70 mph is likely a minor existing vibration you don't feel as speed increases, is what triggers a harmonic vibration (elsewhere?) that you DO feel at that speed. A simple out of balance issue would increase in amplitude in relation to speed. The 70 mph is a clue pointing to a harmonic issue. Maybe a stethoscope would find it when running the vehicle on blocks without wheels?

Finding the cause can be a real bear, as you have discovered. There's nothing much left to try. Is it possible it is engine related somehow? Like an out of balance A/C compressor with a bad piston, or some crazy thing like this? Maybe the major vibration is somewhere else, not in the drive train? It's almost as if a rotational vibration causes something not rotating to vibrate. This is physics, folks, that operates in the physical world under fixed laws and rules. Cause and effect - no matter if you can't find the cause.

Early Michelin tires had a similar symptom - a minor out of balance feeling present at about 55 mph +/- 5 mph. It couldn't be balanced away (per Michelin, at that time).
 

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Discussion Starter #196
That really only leaves one possibility, well, maybe two. Axles and motor mounts, but axles is the most likely.
I did notice recently in the past 2 weeks or so that I get more vibration on hard acceleration.
The axles did seem to wobble like a out of shape tire, very little amount but something I noticed when the van was running in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
I'm assuming it was on hoist . Did anyone notice any wobble underneath? I to was able to tighten my subframe bolts . It made the front end seem more "solid" but my steering wheel vibration is still there . I had a scheduled appointment with my works Honda dealership. I was swamped on Friday with waiters and couldn't get away from shop until like 1pm and it was to late so I have a appointment for Monday . Things I'm going to check with Honda . Is there a new software level for trans control module. Torque converter lock up issues .why is it so bad at 70mph and not 83mph . I've had 22"s 20"s 17" winter's on steelies stock 16"s on all with the steering wheel shake to some degree on this van . I don't mind doing struts and wheel bearings . But I want results at this time . Van rides great up to 65mph when steering wheel starts to shake and gets horrible at 70mph then clears up at 82mph . Really odd . My wife says just drive 55mph . I laughed and said I would go crazy . 70mph is the highway speed I was made for and desire . We will see I will keep u posted .
This time I ran it in the air myself. Looks like the shops didn't bother checking or didn't notice it.
 

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What if the splined receptacles in your transaxle were damaged from running with the original bad axles? If I recall you had a video of you shaking the CV up and down. That movement seemed excessive.
 

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Time to swap out the axles with the Autozone Duralasts like I do... if they go bad you can keep swapping them out Since they got lifetime warranty
 

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But for me why so severe at only 70mph? Any thoughts
An out of balance tire is most noticeable around 40-45 mph and then again at 60-70 mph. There is a lot of physics that goes into vibrations and harmonics (first order, second order, etc.) After a while you learn what causes the different vibrations at different speeds and it gives you a starting place. Just because I know that worn CV axles commonly vibrate at 65-70 doesn't mean I understand all the physics behind vibrations and harmonics. Engineers study this stuff for years. For me, if someone says it only shakes when I hit 70, I first suspect CV axles. If they say it shakes at 40-50 and then again at 70 I suspect tire balance. If it comes and goes I suspect multiple tires out of balance as the vibrations can cancel each other out. It gets even more fun trying to diagnose a standard driveline vibration, especially when people do lifts on trucks, etc. That angle between the two u-joints is critical. I'm not claiming to know about all this, just admitting that the study of vibrations can get quite complicated.
 
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