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Long shot. Maybe one of the engine mounts is not "tight" enough. I remember, my 2001, steering wheel, would vibrate at times. Mechanic, said, bad eng. mount. Sure enough, fixed it.
 

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Hey folks,

I've been having steering vibrations recently. It starts from 67 MPH and gets worse when you go faster. It vibrates even in neutral at that speeds.

I had the wheels road forced balanced more than 5 times at 2 different shops. I tried driving on 3 sets of wheels and the vibration was still there.
Tried rotating rear to front and front to rear, vibration still there.
Replaced both driveshafts with OEM less than 25k miles ago, DID NOT replace the intermediate shaft.
All motor mounts new, OEM.
Lower control arms replaced with aftermarket LCAs last winter, I do not feel any play when doing the 12-6 and 9-3 wobble test.
Inner and outer tie rods replaced with OEM last winter.
Swaybar bushings and endlinks replaced with OEM less than 2 years ago.
Struts are fine.
Rotors are "warped" but doesn't shake too bad when braking. They have been resurfaced once before.
Wheels are torqued to specs.

Any ideas? I'm loosing my mind. 162k miles on the van. 2010 EX-L. VCMuzzled.
I just finally after almost 3 years of vibration, got my 2012 van working right. In your case the comments about steering rack may be the problem. Just wanted to point out that in addition to all the things you did and I think others have mentioned; I did replace the complete drive shaft on both sides, though that was not the vibration problem. (I could hear some noises) I believe my problem was combo of bad tires that over time tore up the tie rod ends that tore up my new tires.

As to the warped rotors; I found out an unexpected cause. I had tried new higher quality rotors and they still warped. Why? Turned out that the calipers were dragging. Not locked and not noticeable by hand turning the wheels. What causes the piston in the calipers to pull back off of the rotor? Turns out the "o-ring" seal for the piston has a square cross-section. It is that square that pulls the piston off of the pads to release the brakes. This o-ring can go bad with age. I put on rebuilt calipers and my warped rotor problem is gone! ( had to turn the rotors of coarse) :D
 

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Mr Ranger: Did you have an alignment done after replacing the Tie Rods? Many times if the alignment is off a bit, it is only noticeable at higher speeds...usually with Steering Wheel vibration.
 

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Hey folks,

I've been having steering vibrations recently. It starts from 67 MPH and gets worse when you go faster. It vibrates even in neutral at that speeds.

I had the wheels road forced balanced more than 5 times at 2 different shops. I tried driving on 3 sets of wheels and the vibration was still there.
Tried rotating rear to front and front to rear, vibration still there.
Replaced both driveshafts with OEM less than 25k miles ago, DID NOT replace the intermediate shaft.
All motor mounts new, OEM.
Lower control arms replaced with aftermarket LCAs last winter, I do not feel any play when doing the 12-6 and 9-3 wobble test.
Inner and outer tie rods replaced with OEM last winter.
Swaybar bushings and endlinks replaced with OEM less than 2 years ago.
Struts are fine.
Rotors are "warped" but doesn't shake too bad when braking. They have been resurfaced once before.
Wheels are torqued to specs.

Any ideas? I'm loosing my mind. 162k miles on the van. 2010 EX-L. VCMuzzled.

What you did not say was what you did, or what happened, just before the vibration appeared, or if the vibration started gradually. Could be, there's a clue there.

A bent rim could cause this, and the vibration would appear suddenly. Use a dial indicator on the the rim to measure both the lateral and the axial runout. Or, if you're inventive and don't have one, make something to hold a probe or a magic marker against the rim as you rotate the tire. Runout for a passenger car is on the order of .035" or .030" max, and at higher speed that is probably too much. That's 1/32". It should be more like .010" for alloy rims, maybe a little more for steel rims. The actual number is in the Odyssey service manual, and it may very well be less than .010". My recollection is .004" for alloy wheels, but that seems too tight.

Then there's the defective tire issue, which, by what you've said, you have eliminated. The tire and wheel has to be out of round, bent laterally, out of balance, or it's a tire issue. Vibration has to come from somewhere. An impending tire failure, such as a separation or bubble on the tread, could cause such an issue. I've had several tires fail this way, and that is the symptom. As the tire failure gets worse, that vibration speed goes down and the vibration gets worse. Of course, with all of these tires flying on and off, the problem certainly isn't a "scalloped" tire (you can feel this as you slide your hand around the tire edges, even if you might not see this).

Have you tried jacking one front wheel off the ground and then the other, and running the speedometer up to about 35 mph to see if the vibration is there? You will have to jack up each wheel to measure the both the lateral and axial runout, and rotate the tires - again - to check all four at speed. A tire may be balanced at one speed and out of balance at another speed if it is starting to fail.

It is highly unlikely that the intermediate shaft is the cause of the problem, in my opinion. That vibration would likely start slowly and increase gradually, but you've pegged the speed at 67 mph.

It is possible that a brake rotor is not seated firmly against a hub, or the rim is not seated flush against a rotor. Maybe there's something embedded on the rim surface where it meets the rotor. At any rate, you'll be a little stronger for all that jacking.
 

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Back to the warped rotors, my intuition tells me if they are warped they may not be balanced and therefore could possibly be the issue.
This is unlikely. It would be seen as lateral runout on the rim, if this were the case. If the rotor is causing the primary problem, it would be difficult to say it was a somewhat normal vibration when braking. It would be a large, car-shaking vibration when the brakes were applied, and you would be nodding as the car came to a stop.
 

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I’m thinking a rotor can loose a balancing weight. My 97 accord did this! I bought Napa Premium Rotors and the crazy vibration stopped
Will it still vibrate on a curvy part of the highway where if the u-joint was loose it would have pressure on it causing the vibration to stop?? Just a thought
 

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Ok. since you said it even does at low speeds It could be bearing or if it only vibrates when you press on gas paddle than it would be front drive axle. To check if its bearing issue lift your car up on jack stand and see if your wheel has any movement in vertical position meaning up and down. If none than pretty sure its axle and if not that than your Serpentine belt is slipping.
 

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Had similar symptoms awhile back that had me going for nearly 2 months Turned out to be a slight asymmetrical rust build up on the hubs. Hit each one with a wire wheel; problem vanished.

Don't discount unbalanced rotors. Had that happen too. Brand new pair; one was obviously 'out'. Warranty replacements fixed the issue (vibrations).
 

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Hey folks,

I've been having steering vibrations recently. It starts from 67 MPH and gets worse when you go faster. It vibrates even in neutral at that speeds.

I had the wheels road forced balanced more than 5 times at 2 different shops. I tried driving on 3 sets of wheels and the vibration was still there.
Tried rotating rear to front and front to rear, vibration still there.
Replaced both driveshafts with OEM less than 25k miles ago, DID NOT replace the intermediate shaft.
All motor mounts new, OEM.
Lower control arms replaced with aftermarket LCAs last winter, I do not feel any play when doing the 12-6 and 9-3 wobble test.
Inner and outer tie rods replaced with OEM last winter.
Swaybar bushings and endlinks replaced with OEM less than 2 years ago.
Struts are fine.
Rotors are "warped" but doesn't shake too bad when braking. They have been resurfaced once before.
Wheels are torqued to specs.

Any ideas? I'm loosing my mind. 162k miles on the van. 2010 EX-L. VCMuzzled.
You say the struts are fine. How do you know? I've seen struts that look ok, have no seepage, and still cause vibration. What about the strut mounts? They might be contributing to the problem. How many miles are on the struts and mounts?
What about driving on different roads, does the problem occur at the same speeds or not at all?
 

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Hey folks,

I've been having steering vibrations recently. It starts from 67 MPH and gets worse when you go faster. It vibrates even in neutral at that speeds.

I had the wheels road forced balanced more than 5 times at 2 different shops. I tried driving on 3 sets of wheels and the vibration was still there.
Tried rotating rear to front and front to rear, vibration still there.
Replaced both driveshafts with OEM less than 25k miles ago, DID NOT replace the intermediate shaft.
All motor mounts new, OEM.
Lower control arms replaced with aftermarket LCAs last winter, I do not feel any play when doing the 12-6 and 9-3 wobble test.
Inner and outer tie rods replaced with OEM last winter.
Swaybar bushings and endlinks replaced with OEM less than 2 years ago.
Struts are fine.
Rotors are "warped" but doesn't shake too bad when braking. They have been resurfaced once before.
Wheels are torqued to specs.

Any ideas? I'm loosing my mind. 162k miles on the van. 2010 EX-L. VCMuzzled.
My EX-L was doing that starting at 75 MPH. Mine was a transmission shudder. I put some conditioner in the fluid and the problem went away. Here is a link to the product:
Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JMLQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_svZBDbJK2V3J3
 

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Had similar symptoms awhile back that had me going for nearly 2 months Turned out to be a slight asymmetrical rust build up on the hubs. Hit each one with a wire wheel; problem vanished.

Don't discount unbalanced rotors. Had that happen too. Brand new pair; one was obviously 'out'. Warranty replacements fixed the issue (vibrations).
How do you know if your rotors are unbalanced?
 

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After replacing almost everything suspensionwise I start to think it is brakes. Especially a brake cylinders. I did just service them. Now they extract and retract so much easier and they both working together. Before they were so stiff and usually only one extracted. I will find out tomorrow if it fixed the problem. Also I found out that lower control arm has a play in ball area. May change it tomorrow. I would be so pissed if all I've done will not fix the problem. Yes I updated ECU.
 
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