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Had a similar issue on my 2005, turned out to be the motor or transmission mount. Both were worn out, so replaced both and the vibrations went away.

The center shaft was an issue on my 2000 Ody., but I could see the play in the carrier bearing. Just lift the center shaft at the bearing and if there is play, that would indicate it's worn out.

Good luck.
 

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I just rebuilt brake cylinders. Just a little bit better. I dont think this is the problem. But I discovered I have a play in a lower control arm. So far. Everything replaced except passenger side lower control arm. Yes wheels are balanced with new tires.
 

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I mentioned previously it's never the rotors, while not braking..... unless the hub's surface was so rusted and you mount a rotor right on without cleaning the hub, causing imbalance.

You will need to drop the J-pipe, or the entire exhaust system if the 3rd cat's nuts/studs are that rusted to get to the intermediate shaft.
 

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Check the front brake calipers for sticking or dragging. A very slightly dragging caliper will overheat the rotor and cause vibrations at highway speed. An easy way to do this is to drive a short distance, stop, and check the rotor temperatures with an infrared (IR) thermometer. The hot rotor has the sticking caliper on it. You might also notice a darkish blue-grey film from overheated pads on the rotor. Replace calipers in axle pairs, drop in new pads, flush the system and you’ll be good to go!
 

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Can you feel the looseness in the bearing with hand? Wonder why it makes issues all the time. Thought it makes issue only when throttle it active. There is an article about someone changing this on an accord. Forgot where i found it.

I think it would be better to replace the bearing only.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Can you feel the looseness in the bearing with hand? Wonder why it makes issues all the time. Thought it makes issue only when throttle it active. There is an article about someone changing this on an accord. Forgot where i found it.

I think it would be better to replace the bearing only.
I did feel vibrations while accelerating.

Is it necessary to replace the whole assembly or only the bearing should do?
 

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I never had to work on it. But by looking at it, unless the splines are damaged, the bearing is enough.

item 22 here right?

Somehow i missed this part "I did feel vibrations while accelerating.". I thought it is always at highway speed
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I never had to work on it. But by looking at it, unless the splines are damaged, the bearing is enough.

item 22 here right?

Somehow i missed this part "I did feel vibrations while accelerating.". I thought it is always at highway speed
It vibrated when I accelerated at highway speeds. noticed this recently.
 

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Some info to think. When I had to swap my tires from winter to a new summer. Something tire shop done and vibration disappeared totally. Changed breaks and vibration came back.
 

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Hey folks,

I've been having steering vibrations recently. It starts from 67 MPH and gets worse when you go faster. It vibrates even in neutral at that speeds.

I had the wheels road forced balanced more than 5 times at 2 different shops. I tried driving on 3 sets of wheels and the vibration was still there.
Tried rotating rear to front and front to rear, vibration still there.
Replaced both driveshafts with OEM less than 25k miles ago, DID NOT replace the intermediate shaft.
All motor mounts new, OEM.
Lower control arms replaced with aftermarket LCAs last winter, I do not feel any play when doing the 12-6 and 9-3 wobble test.
Inner and outer tie rods replaced with OEM last winter.
Swaybar bushings and endlinks replaced with OEM less than 2 years ago.
Struts are fine.
Rotors are "warped" but doesn't shake too bad when braking. They have been resurfaced once before.
Wheels are torqued to specs.

Any ideas? I'm loosing my mind. 162k miles on the van. 2010 EX-L. VCMuzzled.
Perhaps a long shot, but have you replaced the front struts? Were the wheel bearings checked?
 
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stewsmith1
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