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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys I installed on my 2002 Ody new Sensatrac Struts and rear shocks, I took the struts out compress the springs and installed everything back on the van, I ride it for a few days then I lift it up to do the breaks and installed new pads on it.

Then it started making noise again on the struts and noticed the Screw on top of the strut mount on the strut shaft was loos even the big washer got loose so I took the leaf gard out and re tightened seems fine.

My Question is will that wightening of the nut be fine or you guys think I need to take the whole strut asambly out and re compress the spring to tighten the top nut?:huh:

Thanks a lot

Gilbert
 

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Hi guys I installed on my 2002 Ody new Sensatrac Struts and rear shocks, I took the struts out compress the springs and installed everything back on the van, I ride it for a few days then I lift it up to do the breaks and installed new pads on it.

Then it started making noise again on the struts and noticed the Screw on top of the strut mount on the strut shaft was loose even the big washer got loose so I took the leaf guard out and re tightened seems fine.

My Question is will that tightening of the nut be fine or you guys think I need to take the whole strut assembly out and re compress the spring to tighten the top nut?:huh:

Thanks a lot

Gilbert
With the spring compressed, you are supposed to insert a hex wrench into the top of the damper rod in order to hold it stationary, while you torque the *NEW* self-locking nut to 33 ft-lbs.

Since the nut is loose, then something was lacking in your installation. It is doubtful that you will be able to get the correct torque value on the nut as long as the spring exerting force on the nut. The nut is already compromised, since it will not lock. You cannot install a new nut unless you compress the spring and remove its force on the nut. Maybe you can compress the spring without removing the assembly from the vehicle.(?)

Check the nut for tightness every day or do it over -- using a *NEW* self locking nut.
 

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Personally, I would hit it with my air gun and add another nut on top for safety reasons seeing it was driven loose. The weight of the car is keeping the spring tension off the strut nut so all you have is the internal strut spring tension against it which is actually pushing the rod up so helping you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok I guess I will have to take the whole asambly off the van again its not that hard,,, this new strust dont have the hex on top but instead its sort of a hexagonal sticking up on top of the threaded part I think its like a 10 or 11mm and I guess I couldnt hold it enought when I tightened the top nut. since I dont have a torque meter I just tight everything to XXX.

Now since the van its on the ground its already compressing the spings down and at the same time the strut shaft its pushing up right,,so tightening of the top nut should be or at least sounds sort of ok by doing it on the van right?
 

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The weight of the car is keeping the spring tension off the strut nut so all you have is the internal strut spring tension against it which is actually pushing the rod up so helping you.
One word: *Preload.*

The spring is still under tension. A soft or low rate spring has to be compressed a lot before it will carry the weight of the vehicle. It's just not practical to allow enough suspension droop to accomodate fully unloading the spring.
 

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One word: *Preload.*

The spring is still under tension. A soft or low rate spring has to be compressed a lot before it will carry the weight of the vehicle. It's just not practical to allow enough suspension droop to accomodate fully unloading the spring.
Maybe I'm thinking incorrectly or maybe you're not understanding what I mean. With the unit installed in the car and the full weight of it on the spring then the only tension the nut should have is from the internal spring in the strut. That spring is not strong enough to stop an impact gun from tightening the nut. Attached is a cheezy picture showing what I mean. The weight of the car is compressing the spring in between the upper mount (12) and strut itself. This means the strut rod has only the internal pressure and that pressure is actually pushing the nut upwards. The old school DIY dangerous way to replace a strut was to remove the top nut and then jack the car up. Tougher with today's huge springs but not as tough in a car the size of a Civic.
 

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Maybe I'm thinking incorrectly or maybe you're not understanding what I mean. With the unit installed in the car and the full weight of it on the spring then the only tension the nut should have is from the internal spring in the strut. That spring is not strong enough to stop an impact gun from tightening the nut. Attached is a cheezy picture showing what I mean. The weight of the car is compressing the spring in between the upper mount (12) and strut itself. This means the strut rod has only the internal pressure and that pressure is actually pushing the nut upwards. The old school DIY dangerous way to replace a strut was to remove the top nut and then jack the car up. Tougher with today's huge springs but not as tough in a car the size of a Civic.
Unless you can objectively observe that the the top of the spring is below the level of the threaded shoulder on the damper rod when supporting the weight of the car, then I respectfully disagree with your assumption.

I don't know for sure, but I submit that the spring is slightly compressed (i.e. pre-loaded) when installed and , therefore, the spring is still exerting pressure on the self locking nut, even when supporting the weight of the car.

Why don't you remove the self-locking nut in order to test your theory?
 

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Unless you can objectively observe that the the top of the spring is below the level of the threaded shoulder on the damper rod when supporting the weight of the car, then I respectfully disagree with your assumption.

I don't know for sure, but I submit that the spring is slightly compressed (i.e. pre-loaded) when installed and , therefore, the spring is still exerting pressure on the self locking nut, even when supporting the weight of the car.

Why don't you remove the self-locking nut in order to test your theory?
Well, if that was the case then when the car is lifted the wheel would not drop because it would be at the end of the strut stroke. I'll pass on testing this on my van seeing I already replaced them but I have done it on other cars and if I needed to I would do it on my van.
 

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Monroe Loaded struts

I have purchased and installed new loaded Monroe struts, just released. I paid $140 per side , no compression just drop em and replace.
 

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Well, if that was the case then when the car is lifted the wheel would not drop because it would be at the end of the strut stroke. I'll pass on testing this on my van seeing I already replaced them but I have done it on other cars and if I needed to I would do it on my van.
The simple answer it that by design there is a (pre) load on the spring so that it stays together at full droop and while carrying the weight of the vehicle. Otherwise you can have bits moving around ( spring rotating, isolators out of place ) and making noise or wearing out. The spring is in some compression at all times. If you assemble the strut without compressing the spring you are wasting some travel in the strut and this affects road holding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so the conclusion for all this would be to take the struts off and re compress the spring to re tighten the top nut right!!!,, I'll do that its not that hard and I have already taken the struts off twice first to replace the strut mount then I replaced the struts,,, should have been done all at the same time but I didnt have all the parts.
 

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Do what odyinNH said. Tighten it on the car, no need to undo everything. I would hit it with my impact gun and be done with it.
 
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