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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I live in MD where temps are in 90s in summer. I use 120 ohm resistance in VCMuzzler II. Even with 120 ohms if I sit in traffic for 5 minutes and start moving at low speed ECO light comes on briefly- happened a few days ago. I can actually almost predict this as temp on dash will move up a tick to pretty much where it used to be without VCMuzzler. Now let's look at the OBD numbers (below) with 120 ohms (SVCM website) - when the actual coolant temp is 270F, it'd only be read as 201F and based on that I can say needle should move only a tick as 201F is pretty much normal coolant temp. So my question is - is this single tick has a temperature variation of 60-70F? Based on this it seems like you would never see signs of overheating on dash which I do not think is true.



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Source: S-VCM Controller - Disable VCM / deactivate VCM and stop ECO in Honda Acura
 

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I have VCMTuner1 on one car and VCMTuner2 on another car. I would not worry too much about the accuracy of the dash gauge. According to the VCMTuner1 instructions, it is normal for the ECO to briefly and occasionally come on during hot weather and city driving. This is exactly what my Ody does. I find the occasional ECO light to be acceptable. I suggest buying an OBDII Bluetooth and watching the actual temp on your phone while driving.
 

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The temperature gauge is not a linear gauge. This has been proven based on data. It has more like 3 different ranges: cold, operating temperature, and overheating. I suspect there is a point where the needle instantly jumps from operating temperature to overheating.
 
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I have the plain jane Muzzler which just uses a resistor. I have never changed from the default resistor that was shipped with it, who's value I think is 82 ohms. I'd go back to the default resistor, and not worry about whether the ECO light activates or not. As long as the light doesn't stay on, it isn't an issue.

My temp gauge stays around the middle of the gauge, and not much different than before the Muzzler.

If your engine is running hot, you probably have another issue.

Finally, I think having the ECM activate is not a bad thing, as it 'exercises' the ECM hardware but doesn't harm or foul the engine.
 

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I think the point of the original post is to discuss whether you'll be able to detect a cooling system malfunction in time if you are running a resistor-based VCM muzzler. The marketing material from S-VCM suggests that you won't.

The good news is that Odysseys don't overheat often, from what I can tell reading these boards and personal experience. Probably the fans are the weakest link in the cooling system.
 

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I never liked S-VCM's marketing to be completely honest. Pretty good product but the marketing always felt a little suspicious to me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think the point of the original post is to discuss whether you'll be able to detect a cooling system malfunction in time if you are running a resistor-based VCM muzzler. The marketing material from S-VCM suggests that you won't.
Yes exactly! As they do not provide any source or data for this table so I have my own doubts about their claim. However, I'd like to hear or read more about this issue if someone has spent some time on it. If the temperature gauge on dash is not linear then this becomes even more tricky.
 

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I have the original VCMuzzler with the 82 ohm resistor and never see the ECO light come on. Works perfectly for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry I should have been clearer in my OP. I am not worried about ECO light or overheating.

I just want to understand IF the numbers reported on the website are true as well as how the higher temps would appear on your dash. I remember there was a user who reported on the VCMuzzler thread that he had his odyssey overheated and he never saw a thing on the dash (not blaming VCMuzler for anything) but then there was another user who was blaming VCMuzzler for overheating but also reported that his needle was up. I just want to understand how it works mainly the actual/Muzzled temps vs dash - again not worried about anything and not going to change VCMuzzler to SVCM or VCMTuner or anything like that.
 

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It works by reporting to the ECM a lower temperature than actual, and VCM won't activate below that certain temperature. When idling in hot weather, the coolant temp heats up enough to allow the VCM to activate.
 

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When idling in hot weather, the coolant temp heats up enough to allow the VCM to activate.

1_ And how much the difference of that ENOUGH from actual engine temperature?
2_ Do you think by using the resistor is much better than the so called S_VCM?

And as I said, don't worry about the ECO light activating for a short amount of time.

How short that time actually?
 
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