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My mom drives TONS of miles. 100 minimum per day. I just changed her oil a couple weeks ago and she is due for another oil change in 500 miles. The previous owner used mineral oil. I want to extend the OCI from 3k to 5k using synthetic. How can I tell if there is sludge in the engine and this is a bad idea? The car was bought used from a dealer at 50k (had carfax but didnt have the honda dealer service history) and the oil in it was good. I would hate to put synthetic in there and loosen up sludge and toast then engine. thanks
 

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In my opinion...there seems to be mixed feelings on doing engine flushes based on my own research. Some think it can do more harm than good.

Go to this link and read the bold section titled Engine Flushes--The Latest Scam

I am by no means an expert but I don't think you can go wrong with a synthetic whether you have sludge or not. My 2003 Ody loves the Amsoil Siganture Series Motor Oil. Mobil 1, Redline, etc are all great synthetics as well. Changing the oil with a synthetic, a higher end oil filter, etc. may help.
 

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rpedersen said:
In my opinion...there seems to be mixed feelings on doing engine flushes based on my own research. Some think it can do more harm than good.

Go to this link and read the bold section titled Engine Flushes--The Latest Scam

I am by no means an expert but I don't think you can go wrong with a synthetic whether you have sludge or not. My 2003 Ody loves the Amsoil Siganture Series Motor Oil. Mobil 1, Redline, etc are all great synthetics as well. Changing the oil with a synthetic, a higher end oil filter, etc. may help.
u can use that solvent (engine flush) that suckers get done at Jiffy Lube. Its cool to see all the black crap come out of youre engine until it is plugged up and seized tomorrow. If jiffy lube did that to my car I would need to lube my fist with enough top quality synthetic grease to put it up the CEO's ass...YAWWWW!
 

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Most likely you won't toast the engine but be prepared to replace every seal on the engine. I did it at ~75000 and had to replace both main front and rear seals, oil pan gasket, have a few bolts siliconed, and still need to have the gasket for the oil filter adapter replaced.
 

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Greg Stoddard said:
Most likely you won't toast the engine but be prepared to replace every seal on the engine. I did it at ~75000 and had to replace both main front and rear seals, oil pan gasket, have a few bolts siliconed, and still need to have the gasket for the oil filter adapter replaced.
why would synthetic make the seals leak?
 

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I've switched half a dozen vehicles over to synthetic and with the exception of a civic that just needed a new valve cover gasket at 130k I've yet to have a problem.

Personally, I use Amsoil oil ow-30 signature oil and amsoil filters changing the oil every 15k or so. Its supposed to be good for 25k or 1 year.

It makes life a lot easier when you do a lot of miles to only change it every 15k.
 

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It should be noted that the only reason you'd be replacing seals is if there was a fair amount of sludge buildup in the engine for several years. You can just look under the valve cover to see the engine for sludge. Its not difficult to see it. Usually its like a caked mud on engine parts. The more you see the more there is.
 

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gregersonke said:
It should be noted that the only reason you'd be replacing seals is if there was a fair amount of sludge buildup in the engine for several years. You can just look under the valve cover to see the engine for sludge. Its not difficult to see it. Usually its like a caked mud on engine parts. The more you see the more there is.
Exactly. I was stupid and didn't look beforehand. I happened to be doing the oil on my xB, which is the same 5W-20, and just decided to do the Ody at the same time since it was near to being due. Unfortunately I didn't have the car for the first 64,000 miles. I'm used to how I take care of vehicles and it just didn't occur to me to check.
 

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To be fair, you would have likely experienced the problem not much longer down the road as regular oil changes will do the same thing to an engine with sludge buildup. The synthetic only hastened the process a little more as it has better overall detergent properties.
 

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BlackSpanker said:
...drives TONS of miles. 100 minimum per day. ... I want to extend the OCI from 3k to 5k using synthetic. .... I would hate to put synthetic in there and loosen up sludge and toast then engine. thanks
How long have she had the car? If you've done a number of mineral oil changes using currently available products, the detergents and dispersants present in plain old dino oil coupled with your frequent changes will clean that motor over time.

Newer oils are much better than stuff we used out of cardboard cans 40 years ago. At 100 miles per day, you're changing that oil on a monthly basis, or more often with a 3k OCI. Kind of like taking a shower in the morning and the evening, every day (okay, bad example...some people in some jobs need to do that).

IIRC, herrhaus (a fellow esteemed OdyClub member) switched to AmSOil and upped his OCI to about 18,500 miles (one year). The UOA was a little high on wear metals, so he thought, until he put it into the perspective that they would be a little high for a single oil change at 3,750 miles...his were actually GREAT numbers for an 18,500-mile OCI.

UOA Thread

You can use dino oil for a 5k OCI. I'm using a 7.5k OCI with Mobil 1, but it gets into the 110'sF out here, and it takes me almost a year to put on those miles, and very little of it is freeway driving...all stop and go...hard on oil. I could use dino, but am happy with the slight increase in MPG since switching to Mobil 1 and AmSOil ATF (have had 3 consecutive tanks of gas yield over 400 miles in mostly in-town driving...the 82-deg C Tstat mod helped during winter road trips, too).

Take to heart all of the stuff from the posts by our two Gregs and rpedersen. They're all correct with wise advice, and based on real-life experiences.

OF
 
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