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I think you'll be in good shape at that mileage. I think that's about the number of miles we had when we made the switch to Mobil 1 5W20 on both Odys. No leaks, and Mobil 1 tends to sit on the "thin" end of th allowable viscosity measurement for 5W20 oils.
Better mpg, longer drain intervals (with AmSOil filters), so I can't complain.
OF
Better mpg, longer drain intervals (with AmSOil filters), so I can't complain.
OF
In KM, try like 15K KM intervals with Mobil 1. As above, I do mine at the '15% oil life' maintenance minder and I am at about 6K miles (10K KM) and that is with regular oil from the dealer. The only benefit to using synthetic oil in a Honda is for extended intervals otherwise you are wasting money.
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249 Posts
Depending on the type of driving being done. For predominantly heavy urban traffic I'd recommend no more than 8,000-10,000 kms. For a good mix of urban & hwy driving, you can go as long as 12,000-15,000 kms. So maybe a good compromise would be every 10,000 km.
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249 Posts
Not yet.
Did test drive an '07 Touring (56K kms) and '08 EX-L (35K kms) today. Wife likes the Touring better, but we prefer having 2nd-row center seat (the stowaway one). So we'll have to look for '08 or later Tourings (which had stowaway ctr. seat standard with corresponding seatbelt).
But I gotta say I was pleasantly surprised by the 3.5L's get-up-and-go. Barely feathering the throttle I was nearing 90km/h on city roads :redface:
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249 Posts
Problem is, '07 and older Touring didn't offer the 2-row center seat, which only became standard starting in '08.
Yeah the get-go from stop and low-end torque was awesome. And the shifts were barely noticeable. The acceleration felt like a 2.8T 9-3 without the turbo kick. I must say, rather addictive :coolio:
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380 Posts
If you can, get one with the Honda tow hitch, PS cooler, and ATF cooler installed.
Honda, Acura and Toyota Accessories for any accessories.
07 have old style foglights (add-ons, non-projector style), (at least on the EX level) 08 and later have the projector style.
Engine is 250+hp if I recall correctly.
Honda, Acura and Toyota Accessories for any accessories.
07 have old style foglights (add-ons, non-projector style), (at least on the EX level) 08 and later have the projector style.
Engine is 250+hp if I recall correctly.
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380 Posts
Although if you want to do something like this, you'll have to ship from Japan direct... 
http://www.mugen-power.com/automobile/products/odyssey/wallpaper/image/02-sxga.jpg
http://www.mugen-power.com/automobile/products/odyssey/wallpaper/image/02-sxga.jpgMobil 1
Hi everyone.....
I'm old enough to remember when Mobil 1 first came out. At that time they advertised on tv that you could go 50,000 miles between oil changes. A little later they advertised 25,000 miles.......and so on. The reason they dropped the mileage number was due to service stations, dealers etc...complaining that it was costing them a ton of money not having people changing their oil.
I remember the commercials where they took two frying pans and turned both on high heat on a kitchen stove and poured regular oil in one and Mobile 1 in the other........it wasn't long before the regular oil was burnt. The synthetic looked like it was just poured out of the bottle.
I also remember one where they drained the oil from a car using synthetic and one without......after draining both cars, they started them up to see which one would lock up first. The plain oil didn't last long.....the Mobile 1 just kept on running.
I'm a firm believer in using synthetic......most of the guys at work just pull the filter at 5000 miles and top it off. They do this for 20000 miles. No problems what so ever.
have a great day!
Hi everyone.....
I'm old enough to remember when Mobil 1 first came out. At that time they advertised on tv that you could go 50,000 miles between oil changes. A little later they advertised 25,000 miles.......and so on. The reason they dropped the mileage number was due to service stations, dealers etc...complaining that it was costing them a ton of money not having people changing their oil.
I remember the commercials where they took two frying pans and turned both on high heat on a kitchen stove and poured regular oil in one and Mobile 1 in the other........it wasn't long before the regular oil was burnt. The synthetic looked like it was just poured out of the bottle.
I also remember one where they drained the oil from a car using synthetic and one without......after draining both cars, they started them up to see which one would lock up first. The plain oil didn't last long.....the Mobile 1 just kept on running.
I'm a firm believer in using synthetic......most of the guys at work just pull the filter at 5000 miles and top it off. They do this for 20000 miles. No problems what so ever.
have a great day!
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372 Posts
This is what I have read about synthetic vs dino oil is:
1) Synthetic oil does not break down over time. Thus no need to change every 3 months even if the car is not driven like dino oil.
2) Synthetic oil does not break down due to heat nearly as quickly. Thus no need to change due to extended mileage in contrast to dino oil which breaks down due to engine heat.
However:
3) Both types of oil still get just as dirty due to driving conditions. At a minimum, the filter must be changed at vehicle manufacturer intervals.
4) Oil levels should still be verified on a regular basis due to the tiny amounts of oils that even a perfectly tuned engine will burn, or worse yet, due to an oil leak.
The pros of synthetic oils of dino oils are:
a) An engine is under greatest stress during these times (a) when starting the engine (b) when accelerating (c) when idling (d) when driving in extreme heat (e) when under load due to cargo or towing or hills. These forms of stress cause additional heat. The least amount of stress is when a car is cruising along in its highest gear at constant load (ie no acceleration, no hills) since the engine is able to stay cooler due to able air flow through the radiator. When regular oil no longer protects the engine as it has been designed to due heat exposure, the engine would not get optimal lubrication when oil is nearing its lifespan. The problem is that the lifespan can vary tremendously due to driving habits. For example, a car that has been driven for 3000 miles in "city driving" defined as: "(i)Roads that had had stop lights, (ii)stop signs, (iii)stop and go traffic,(iv) or having done many small trips requiring starting and restarting the engine" or (v) during environmental conditions that had high outdoor temperatures, or under increased load such as cargo, towing or hills, then the oil in this car would be in much worse shape than a car that did the same 3000 miles in "Highway driving" with the same dino oil but driven on flat roads with few stops and starts, and few restarts of the engine.
The problem is that you never really know when the oil has exceeded its lifespan. The oil change interval suggested by the manufacturer for regular dino oil is an average of all driving conditions.
This issue is not as great a concern with synthetic oil.
b) As dino oil starts to break down, it begins to contain a little water moisture. In extreme cold conditions, used dino oil does not protect the engine against freezing as well as synthetic oil, since the synthetic oil would not have broken down. Its is a fact that in temperatures below -22F (-30C) dino oil with approx. 3000 miles of wear is at risk of freezing, thus making it impossible for the starter to turn the engine over fast enough to engage. This is why engine block heaters were invented.
This issue is not as great a concern with synthetic oil.
The bottom line is synthetic provides consistently reliable protection. However, it still gets dirty. Personally,I prefer to change the synthetic oil at the recommended interval since its almost as much work to just change the filter, and this way I know I have clean AND reliable oil.
1) Synthetic oil does not break down over time. Thus no need to change every 3 months even if the car is not driven like dino oil.
2) Synthetic oil does not break down due to heat nearly as quickly. Thus no need to change due to extended mileage in contrast to dino oil which breaks down due to engine heat.
However:
3) Both types of oil still get just as dirty due to driving conditions. At a minimum, the filter must be changed at vehicle manufacturer intervals.
4) Oil levels should still be verified on a regular basis due to the tiny amounts of oils that even a perfectly tuned engine will burn, or worse yet, due to an oil leak.
The pros of synthetic oils of dino oils are:
a) An engine is under greatest stress during these times (a) when starting the engine (b) when accelerating (c) when idling (d) when driving in extreme heat (e) when under load due to cargo or towing or hills. These forms of stress cause additional heat. The least amount of stress is when a car is cruising along in its highest gear at constant load (ie no acceleration, no hills) since the engine is able to stay cooler due to able air flow through the radiator. When regular oil no longer protects the engine as it has been designed to due heat exposure, the engine would not get optimal lubrication when oil is nearing its lifespan. The problem is that the lifespan can vary tremendously due to driving habits. For example, a car that has been driven for 3000 miles in "city driving" defined as: "(i)Roads that had had stop lights, (ii)stop signs, (iii)stop and go traffic,(iv) or having done many small trips requiring starting and restarting the engine" or (v) during environmental conditions that had high outdoor temperatures, or under increased load such as cargo, towing or hills, then the oil in this car would be in much worse shape than a car that did the same 3000 miles in "Highway driving" with the same dino oil but driven on flat roads with few stops and starts, and few restarts of the engine.
The problem is that you never really know when the oil has exceeded its lifespan. The oil change interval suggested by the manufacturer for regular dino oil is an average of all driving conditions.
This issue is not as great a concern with synthetic oil.
b) As dino oil starts to break down, it begins to contain a little water moisture. In extreme cold conditions, used dino oil does not protect the engine against freezing as well as synthetic oil, since the synthetic oil would not have broken down. Its is a fact that in temperatures below -22F (-30C) dino oil with approx. 3000 miles of wear is at risk of freezing, thus making it impossible for the starter to turn the engine over fast enough to engage. This is why engine block heaters were invented.
This issue is not as great a concern with synthetic oil.
The bottom line is synthetic provides consistently reliable protection. However, it still gets dirty. Personally,I prefer to change the synthetic oil at the recommended interval since its almost as much work to just change the filter, and this way I know I have clean AND reliable oil.
Very nice summary,,, I would like to add the word synthetic can be put on anything,,, YES,,, anything,,, The basics for oil is there is Petro oil base stock III ( mobil 1) and there is PAO base stock,, (Amsoil, Mobil1 extended performance). There are filters designed for 15k plus miles if used with PAO.
I use AMSOIL 0w30 with their EA0 filter,,, this for me after many years of research (no not continuely). I change oil 12-15 k miles BUT I have sent to the lab many samples of oil from various cars I own. Normal base III stock New oil Mobil1 has a 7-9 TBN (a basic wear number, there is many more parameters) AMSOIL New TBN is 13, mine after 12k miles and lab analysis is 6-8 TBN,,, so basicly my oil is just as good after 12k miles as new Mobil1.
I keep all my cars 250k miles plus, I know I can go many more miles before I change oil but I double down on all recommended maintenance,,, It's just me,,,
note I do sell AMSOIL to my friends,,, BUT I don't make any money at it,, IT's just a hobby,,,
I don't want to start a oil war here,,, many people have gone 200k miles by changing oil every 5 k miles,,,
DRead and interpret with a grain of salt; this is from an Amsoil website/seller which are notorious for their own interpretation of facts. I am not saying false, just written with pieces of the truth to build a very biased article and implying factual.
I sold Amsoil for a couple years a long while back and was a bit turned off when, as an eager sponge, asked a lot of questions to truly understand Amsoil and their "facts". I got a lot of corporate high level answers that alway ended in "we are superior" [paraphrased] but never an apples-to-apple comparision to really prove it? I am pragmatic so needed more and finally stopped being a reseller.
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