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Discussion Starter #1
The TCS and ABS lights came on while I was driving on a dirt road. I cannot retrieve any code nor reset the lights using the OBDII.
Is there a way to reset the TCS and ABS lights? I read about jumping the pass box but I am not sure how it is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ABS light reset

ABS LIGHT RESET/DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE


When a problem occurs in the ABS, the warning lamp on the instrument panel comes on. To start the self diagnostic
results mode, ground the self-diagnostic (check) terminal located on Data Link Connector. The
location of the malfunction is indicated by the warning lamp flashing.

SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
1. Drive vehicle over 30 km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Ground terminal 9 of Data Link Connector with a suitable harness.
4. Turn ignition switch ON while grounding terminal 9.
Do not depress brake pedal.
5. After 3.0 seconds, the warning lamp starts flashing to indicate
the malfunction code No. (See NOTE.)
6. Verify the location of the malfunction with the malfunction code
chart. Then make the necessary repairs following the diagnostic procedures.
7. After the malfunctions are repaired, erase the malfunction codes
stored in the control unit. See Below
8. Rerun the self-diagnostic results mode to verify that the malfunction
codes have been erased.
9. Disconnect the check terminal from the ground. The self-diagnostic
results mode is now complete.
10. Check warning lamp for deactivation after driving vehicle over 30
km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute.
11. After making certain that warning lamp does not come on, test
the ABS in a safe area to verify that it functions properly.
NOTE:
The indication terminates after 5 minutes.
However, when the ignition switch is turned from OFF to ON, the
indication starts flashing again.

HOW TO READ SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS (MALFUNCTION CODES)
1. Determine the code No. by counting the number of times the warning lamp flashes on and off.
2. When several malfunctions occur at one time, up to three code numbers can be stored; the latest malfunction
will be indicated first.
3. The indication begins with the start code 12. After that a maximum of three code numbers appear in the
order of the latest one first. The indication then returns to the start code 12 to repeat (the indication will
stay on for five minutes at most).

HOW TO ERASE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS (MALFUNCTION CODES)
1. Disconnect the check terminal from ground (ABS warning lamp
will stay lit).
2. Within 12.5 seconds, ground the check terminal three times.
Each terminal ground must last more than 1 second. The ABS
warning lamp goes out after the erase operation has been completed.
3. Perform self-diagnosis again. Only the start code should appear, no
malfunction codes.

ABS CODES

Code No. Malfunctioning Part Reference Page
12 Self-diagnosis could not detect any malfunctions.
45 Actuator front left outlet solenoid valve
46 Actuator front left inlet solenoid valve
41 Actuator front right outlet solenoid valve
42 Actuator front right inlet solenoid valve
51 Actuator rear right outlet solenoid valve
52 Actuator rear right inlet solenoid valve
55 Actuator rear left outlet solenoid valve
56 Actuator rear left inlet solenoid valve
25 *1 Front left sensor (open-circuit)
26 *1 Front left sensor (short-circuit)
21 *1 Front right sensor (open-circuit)
22 *1 Front right sensor (short-circuit)
31 *1 Rear right sensor (open-circuit)
32 *1 Rear right sensor (short-circuit)
35 *1 Rear left sensor (open-circuit)
36 *1 Rear left sensor (short-circuit)
18 *1 Sensor rotor
61 *3 Actuator motor or motor relay
63 Solenoid valve relay
57 *2 Power supply (Low voltage)
71 Control unit

I got this from the internet.
Are the #1 and #9 the correct pins to short?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Paperclip works

This is what I have done.
1. Short the #9 and #4 pin on the DLC.
2. Turn ignition switch to ON.
3. Count the plinks/flashes

To reset
1. With the ignition switch OFF
2. Short the SCS circuit to body ground #4 and #9 pin using a paperclip
3. Press the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) while keeping the brake pedal pressed.
5. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake.
6. After the ABS indicator goes on, press the brake pedal again.
7. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake again.
8. After a few seconds, the ABS indicator blinks twice and the DTC is cleared. If the ABS indicator stays on after it blinks twice, check the DTC, because a problem was detected during the initial diagnosis before shifting to DTC clearing mode.
9. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Disconnect the paperclip from the DLC.

Here are the codes:

ABS (52 and 61)
52 Motor Stuck OFF
61 Battery voltage

TCS (31)
31 Engine Retard Command (PFINH) Signal
 

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ABS DTC 52: Motor Stuck OFF

Check Fuse # 50 (30A) in the Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box.
Check ground in the motor power circuit.
Check Fuse # 14 (7.5A) in the Passenger's Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box.
Check ground and a loose connection in the Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box and the ABS Control Unit.
Check ground in the MCK circuit.
Check pump motor relay in the Under-hood ABS Relay Box.
Check for open wire between ABS Relay Box and pump motor.
Check pump motor.
Check ground from pump motor.
Check for open wire from Under-hood ABS Relay Box to ABS Control Unit.
Check ABS Control Unit.

ABS DTC 61: Battery Voltage

Clear DTC.
Test drive at 6mph (10 km/h). Does the ABS light come on? If yes, check the charging system. If no, then an intermittent failure - OK.

TCS DTC 31: Engine retard command (PFINH) signal

If the Check Engine Light or the ABS lights are on, check these first. (You have the ABS light on so refer to above first.)
Check ground or a short between PCM and ABS/TCS control unit.
Check for loose connectors at the PCM.
Check the PCM.
Check for loose connectors at the ABS/TCS control unit.
Check the ABS/TCS contol unit.
 

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Hi guys,

I recently started having this trouble with my 2002 odyssey. The TCS and ABS lights come on and go away intermittently.

I took it to the honda dealership and they ran the initial tests and basically cleared the lights.
I drove it home no lights, once parked I shut off the engine, restarted it and the lights came back on. That is what has been happening lately. They turn on and off intermittently.

Here is what was on the invoice.

152068 CODE 61-1 Battery voltage failure CODE 17-1 L/R wheel sensor OPEN/SHORT CODE 24-2 R?F TCS normal OPEN SOL VALVE failure CODE 31-2
Engine retard command failure performed AVR test battery and alternator good Max output 142 amps cleared light & road tested on highway light did not comeback on. If light comes back on again, customer to return for straight time electrical diagnostics.


I called the dealership back and they said that they would have to do a longer tests and it is about a 100 bucks and hour and they are not sure how long it might take them.

Any ideas as to what could be wrong.

I have about 152000 Km on the Van and the extended warranty is good till 160K kM


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Does the extended warranty cover these things? Then go ahead and let them charge "straight time electrical diagnostics"
 

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2ciscoc,

I had a bad ABS wheel speed sensor and it sounded very much like what you have described. I have a 2000 LX (so no TCS) but I was getting intermittent lighting of the ABS light. I read the code and found a right rear wheel speed sensor DTC. The light would come and go over ~ 3 month period. It may have been related to moisture but I'm not positive. Once the sensor finaly stopped working intermittently I trouble shot the circuit (both the sensor and the wires to it) and found the sensor to be open (there is a resistance which I don't remember off the top of my head). Replace the sensor myself and all was / is fine from that point on. Hope this helps. Russ
 

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Thanks for responding to my query.

I would need to take it back to the service center as I cannot test it myself ( no experience fixing/diagnosing cars:p )

They want to keep it for the whole day and that would mean about a 1000 bucks and they are not telling me if any of this is covered under warranty until they have determined what is causing the lights to come on.

I was wondering if there was an alternative to what Honda has proposed.

Thanks
 

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ABS Codes for 98+ Model Years

98+ CODES (thanks to 2000GSRT)

11 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) FR
13 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) FL
15 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) RR
17 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) RL
12 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FR
14 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FL
16 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RR
18 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RL
21 - pulser FR
22 - pulser FL
23 - pulser RR
24 - pulser RL
31 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FR-IN
32 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FR-OUT
33 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FL-IN
34 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FL-OUT
35 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RR-IN
36 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RR-OUT
37 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-IN
38 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-OUT
41 - wheel lock FR
42 - wheel lock FL
43 - wheel lock RR
44 - wheel lock RL
51 - motor lock
52 - motor stuck OFF
53 - motor stuck ON
54 - fail-safe relay
61 - ignition voltage
62 - ignition voltage
71 - different diameter tire
81 - central processing unti (CPU)


Taken from Here
 

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2ciscoc,

I had a bad ABS wheel speed sensor and it sounded very much like what you have described. I have a 2000 LX (so no TCS) but I was getting intermittent lighting of the ABS light. I read the code and found a right rear wheel speed sensor DTC. The light would come and go over ~ 3 month period. It may have been related to moisture but I'm not positive. Once the sensor finaly stopped working intermittently I trouble shot the circuit (both the sensor and the wires to it) and found the sensor to be open (there is a resistance which I don't remember off the top of my head). Replace the sensor myself and all was / is fine from that point on. Hope this helps. Russ
rberman999 or anyone else, can you confirm this is the correct part? and if so directions or pic of where it is??

Duralast/Vehicle Speed Sensor (SU5617) | 2002 Honda Odyssey 6 Cylinders 3.5L MFI SOHC VTEC | AutoZone.com
 

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Another bump for someone who may know more about this. Before I start taking my wheel/hub apart I really wanted to know the exact part and location I am looking for - Right Rear Speed Sensor. Also want ot knwo if there is aharness with the sensor I should replace or is it just the sensor.

Anyone?
 

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OK so I finally got to fixing my issue - again it's 2002 and the code read bad Right Rear Speed Sensor - which I came to know as ABS sensor as well/ Anyway I ordered at Autozone for $50. The part number was SU9047. Took me a total of 2 hours to replace, one hour was getting the new bugger into the rusted cruddy hole that i had to bang the old one out of. I filed the hole a little bit after the old sendor was out and used a little grease/oil/vasoline to get the new one in. i did have to tap it a little with as hammer.

As I am a novice repair man (i have done brakes and rotots before but that is all) I will give others a summary: take wheel off, take caliper off (i think bolts were 14mm), take rotor off - there are two phillip screws holding it on, then you can see then sensor..its the black almost circle like object the protrudes out from the back very close to a set of teeth that spin when you turn the lugs (sry not sure what these are called). as an fyi those little teeth are what the sensor is reading... it reads their speed). the sensor has a 10mm bolt you get to from the back. the sensor has a harness that extends to under and behind the gas tank - there are about 5 more 10mm bolts and then an orange clip. my new sensor came with this wire harness... probable 3 feet long. anyway the only hard part is getting old sensor out and hardest part is getting new sensor in.
 

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Just took care of the ABS VSA light on a 2011 Honda Odyssey after the battery went dead, using the above procedure with a paper click. I am clueless as to any of this tech, but can tell you not to worry, all of the things described above can be "rolled back" insofar as you can just turn the key off and try again if you think you missed it. Piece of cake and saved hundreds of dollars based on what the tech was telling me over the phone.
 

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I changed the lower control arms on my wife's 2000 Odyssey and the TCS and ABS light came on, first start. I double checked for wires that possibly could have been pinched. But nothing. I read the code front wheel sensor. ohm'd out both side... zero.. open. I replaced both sides and all is ok now. I'm thinking hitting the steering knuckle to release the ball joint must have somehow caused the faults. Just a word of warning to maybe remove the sensor before before doing control arm work.
 

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Honda Odyssey 2011 battery jump resulting in a ABS VBS indicator light coming on and sliding door issues.


As posted earlier in this thread but not the easiest to understand for newbies such as myself....whats a SCS circuit!? Well through some research in other threads unrelated to my issue, the SCS circuit is the plug found under the dashboard of the drivers side where the dealer or mechanic plugs in to communicate to the car's computer. There are actual small numbers in the corners showing you that 1 starts in the lower right hand corner getting bigger moving left up to 8..then the upper row starts from 9 to 16. I used a small paper clip bending it to reach the 4th and 9th hole where they are bridged together.....

To reset

1. With the ignition switch OFF
2. Short the SCS circuit to body ground #4 and #9 pin using a paperclip
3. Press the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) while keeping the brake pedal pressed.
5. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake.
6. After the ABS indicator goes on, press the brake pedal again.
7. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake again.
8. After a few seconds, the ABS indicator blinks twice and the DTC is cleared. If the ABS indicator stays on after it blinks twice, check the DTC, because a problem was detected during the initial diagnosis before shifting to DTC clearing mode.
9. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Disconnect the paperclip from the DLC.
 
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