[pre2005]

Hi everyone,

My odyssey 2000 throw me a code of P1739 which says the problems with 3rd pressure switch. I would like to know if the switch is really dead or just a connectors. How could i test if the 3rd switch is failed before o order another one. Thanks for info.

 

[New Dad New Van]

Here is a good thread to get you started. I used the search terms "P1739 testing switch"...

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/65210-what-do-fix-1-2-slip.html

 

[pre2005]

Thank you.

 

[odyfixer]

Just replaced 3rd Cluth Pressure Switch

Had a P1739 code. Just replaced switch. Haven't driven Ody far enough yet to see if Check Engine light will re-appear. Keeping my finger crossed. Tried to drain fluid for a change but bolt is really stuck. I broke my first-even SK 3/8" socket drive from about 35 or so years ago :frown:. Need to get a good 3/8" breaker bar as I don't have any impact tools. Here are some pics getting to it from the top by removing the battery and battery tray.

 

[Odypyro]

Had a P1739 code. Just replaced switch. Haven't driven Ody far enough yet to see if Check Engine light will re-appear. Keeping my finger crossed. Tried to drain fluid for a change but bolt is really stuck. I broke my first-even SK 3/8" socket drive from about 35 or so years ago :frown:. Need to get a good 3/8" breaker bar as I don't have any impact tools. Here are some pics getting to it from the top by removing the battery and battery tray.

Odyfixer,

I used a 17-inch 1/2" ratchet with a 1/2" - 3/8" adapter.
you can also use a torque wrench with the same adapter.

CK

 

[Cantech 86]

Wow, Odypyro, you just made me cringe! I would strongly recommend you never use a torque wrench to remove a tightened bolt. They were never designed for that purpose! Please, use a breaker bar with a good quality socket to remove any stuck or over tightened nut/bolt. My two cents worth.

 

[odyfixer]

I also had one frustrating experience with a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer. Whether the one I had was defective or cheap, using a reducer with a breaker bar caused the reducer to shear off at the transition between the two sizes. Luckily I was using a socket and could just pop out the 3/8" half, but with the transmission drain bolt, which can't use a socket, if that happened it would not make my day. So for me it's straight breaker bar, perhaps with a pipe extension for extra leverage and my only hope is the drain bolt doesn't shear off at the head.

 

[Cantech 86]

Odyfixer, I know the frustration you are feeling. As a mechanic, I have suffered with inferior quality tools. I learned early on that there is no subsitute for quality when it comes to your tools. I have the broken knuckles to prove it. The trans. drain bolt on my 02 is very stubborn to remove even though I torque it to the proper spec when re-installed. I use a half inch breaker bar with a reducer to remove the allen head drain bolt. Good luck!

 

[chiodyssey]

It's a while since someone posted on it. So just wondering how everything turned out. Did code popped again is tranny okay any details will help I have a 2001 and planning to do it this weekend. Any information will help a lot thank you.

 

[New Dad New Van]

I replaced both pressure switches (3rd and 4th) at the same time as preventative maintenance.

 

[mjody]

I replaced both pressure switches (3rd and 4th) at the same time as preventative maintenance.

+1. Was easy to do and switches are only $40 iirc.

 

[New Dad New Van]

Correction: I replaced both the 2nd and 3rd gear pressure switches (not 3rd and 4th) on my 2001. They were $50 each from USA online store.

 

[mjody]

Correction: I replaced both the 2nd and 3rd gear pressure switches (not 3rd and 4th) on my 2001. They were $50 each from USA online store.

I did the one under the battery and the one under intake snorkel, were the same part numbers. Are those the same ones? Pretty easy to do, under an hour and just basic tools.

 

[funtown89]

all you do is switch the 2nd and 3rd pressure switches and see if the corresponding code changes... if so then u have a faulty switch

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[New Dad New Van]

I did the one under the battery and the one under intake snorkel, were the same part numbers. Are those the same ones? Pretty easy to do, under an hour and just basic tools.

Yes, although I must admit to giving the dealer a bone on this one and had them do the work - gasp!

From my POV these pressure switches made more of a difference improving the shifts than the Shift Solenoid Valve C that I thought would help the cold or heavy throttle 1 to 2 shift (or quick downshift on the highway). I still have the hard shift now and then and can avoid it by feathering the throttle so I am living with it - then again it is a 12 year old transmission. All other parts on the van are great for its age. It is a keeper for sure.

I guess I just came to the conclusion that I was not going to wait for a code to replace the switches as they were cheap and the transmission relies heavily on fluid pressures. I read they deteriorate over time and not just fail or not. Maybe just nonsense but I recall noticing a difference after I replaced.

 

[Our Odyssey]

odyfixer - thanks for the detailed pics! How many switches are there in total? There is this one under the battery tray and one under the intake snorkel, are there others? Would anyone be able to post pics?

 

[odyfixer]

chiodyssey, replacing the switch fixed the problem. Haven't had any trans issues since. I found it to be a really easy fix. 2001 now has 196k on it. Looking to do timing belt this summer. I had a mechanic do it the first time but this time around I'll find time to do it myself.

 

[R_B]

Had a P1739 code. Just replaced switch. Haven't driven Ody far enough yet to see if Check Engine light will re-appear. Keeping my finger crossed. Tried to drain fluid for a change but bolt is really stuck. I broke my first-even SK 3/8" socket drive from about 35 or so years ago :frown:. Need to get a good 3/8" breaker bar as I don't have any impact tools. Here are some pics getting to it from the top by removing the battery and battery tray.

Thanks odyfixer,
Those pictures were MOST HELPFUL to me in replacing the 3rd gear pressure switch on my daughter's 2000 Oddy.
A very MINOR detail, there were actually FOUR bolts holding the battery tray in.
The fourth one is at the back and goes horizontally, I couldn't get any of my wrenches to it despite trying everything that SHOULD have been possible to snake in there. It MIGHT have been possible to get at it from a wheel well, but I was SO CLOSE that I didn't want to tackle the problem from another angle.
Anyway, with the other three out I was able to pivot the tray up and backwards just enough to access the switch.

Everything else went just about the way you described.

I don't think it "fixed" anything, but neither did replacing the 2nd gear pressure switch.
I only replaced that one because we had a 1738 code ONE TIME and this van is new to us.
155K miles, unknown maintenance/problems history, etc. , so we're just going through things.

BTW, the trans APPEARS TO hang up in 2nd gear for a long time, eventually it up-shifts, though typically only after backing off the gas.
I will probably T/S clutch solenoids next.

 

[dannyz]

Thanks guys for this information. I now plan to replace my switches as well.

I learned about this issue on Acurazine because early 3G TL tranmissions are very prone to failures, and someone on the board discovered that the Pressure Switches were a major cause. I changed my TL switches, and immediately cured some strange and slow shifting. You may find this Acura thread interesting--I'm convinced it saved my TLS transmission: Very interesting conversation with my transmission builder on the TL - AcuraZine Community

I now have 190K on my 2004, and have changed out the fluid several times over it's lifetime with mulit-vehicle ATF (Dex III based) -- the latest change was with Honda DW1. I also replaced the ATF filter.

The Acura guys swear by ATF with less FMs (friction modifiers) than Honda fluid, because long, smooth shifts produce more clutch wear. They like Dex III types, and Redline DW4 (or even their racing fluid). Guys with slipping transmissions have even had luck with Type F. I know this is controversial, and I'm not recommending this to anyone just sharing the learnings of others. But clearly, Honda's discontinued Z1 fluid was certainly not optimal.

I'd like to drive my '04 to 250K miles. It has been simply the best, most problem free car I have ever owned. Maintained religiously, I still get 25 mpg on the highway with a family of 6 and luggage, AND a Thule cartop box! Blows my mind--what a vehicle! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!

 

[0dyfamily]

Guys, before we start thinking of replacing CPC solenoids and CP switches as a "cure all", let's just stand back and take a look at the overall situation.

CPC solenoids and CP swtiches greatly affect the driveability (not reliability) of any transmission, whether it be the 1999-2001 Odyssey 4-speed, or the 2002-2004 Ody 5-speed. If they work properly, the transmission will operate properly if the internals are mechanically sound.

My A/T's are still working fine, but when they hit the point where they don't, these will be the first items I check...basic electric sensors (clutch pressure switches) and electrically actuated fluid control pieces (clutch pressure control solenoids). Like any switch or solenoid, they have a certain number of cycles they can endure before they reach their MTBF (mean time between failure) or MCBF (mean cycle between failure) points.

Of course, if you don't address the operability issues in the short term, they can affect long-term reliability.

This thread is about a 2000 Odyssey. Completely different from the 3rd Gen TL 5-speed in dannyz's post (and his 2004 Ody) in terms of most often-seen failure modes, but alike with the BYBA-coded 2002-2004 5-speed. Also, if his 2004 is a 5FNRL18xx4B051621 or later VIN, odds are that all 3rd clutch ATF flow restrictions were fixed in production and the 2nd gear oil jet mod was incorporated internally as well.

BYBA and similarly-cored 5-speed Honda A/T's did not mechanically fail due to electrical switching and fluid power transmission logic snafus. They primarily failed because of three NHTSA-identified mechanical ATF flow restrictions to the third clutch.

I still have the enormous NHTSA report in .pdf format for anybody who wants it. Send me a PM with an email addy, but beware...it's huge. No guarantees it won't crash an email server.

The NHTSA did not identify the high-silicone-base Honda ATF-Z1 as causing 5-speed 3rd clutch failures...that said, I'm not a fan of such an old ATF spec originally designed for Hondamatic A/T's in small vehicles now being used in much heavier vehicles with much more powerful engines. That's why I now use a quality synthetic ATF. Less friction modifiers and firmer shifts? Yup. Longer clutch pack life? Most likely.

OF