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The 09 EXL will go in for other warranty items. No doubt they will come back at me and say I need brakes, as it's almost 3 years and well over 36K miles.

I read all the DIY, but will just let them do the brakes, in the interest of available time, and my lack of experience.

Questions.

1. Can you list down what they will tell me I need? So I don't get raped. New pads, smooth out the disc, flush the fluid, and anything else?

2. Speaking of cost, your guess as to how much the dealer will charge? I don't mind paying more, if I do get more or better work done.

3. Brake Masters often advertise they brake work for $79. That seems kind of low. There must be hidden charges somewhere, or that's only the pads and not the fluid flushing. Or will they come back and tell me ABS cost more than their advertised price.

TIA
 

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Your van is due for a brake fluid replacement after 3 years.
Depending on how thin your brake pads are, you may not need new pads.
If you have no brake pedal vibrations, there's no need to smooth out the rotors.

You can bring the van into Brake Masters for a free inspection and you may or may not need new pads.
Brake Masters would advertise a ridiculously low price ($79 for 4 sets of pads).
When you get in there, you'll find out the pads are el cheapo kinds.
They'd tell you the upgraded pads would add maybe $40 more for 4 sets.
Then they'd tell you that you may need new brake kits (front and rear), $maybe 40.
If there's brake pedal vibrations, they'd tell you that the rotors need to be smoothed out, maybe $50.
If they remove the rotors, then they'd need to bleed the brake fluid (maybe $50 more).
After all said and done, you'd be looking at a bill of at least $250.

Most likely all the things Brake Master recommends are actually needed, especially if your car has not
had brake service for a long time (5+ years).
So $250 may be the right price but a lot of people were surprised b/c they were expecting $79.

Dealer's labor rate is higher than Brake Check, so expect to pay more but you'll get OEM pads and OEM fluids.
 

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I'd love to tell you but my crystal ball broke last year.

Once you decide to get the work done at a shop, there is no telling what kind of fake charges they'd try to tack on. What you want to do is take it in and get an estimate and then post here and refuse the work that you do not need instead of having all of us speculate on what your dealer or some indy shop in your town will tell you need to get done.
 

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My 2 cents in the modern vehciles in the name of cost saving the rotors are very thin. I am not really sure why someone will gind those down. In the old days the rotors where heavy and can be grid down with new pads. Also rotors are so cheap that the savings are not really worth it.

Autozone will sell you the top of the line with life time replacement on their top line. I had them on my ford which ate rotors and pads every 20k. so every 20k i would walk in and walkout with a new set.

bleeding brakes is so easy. the brake fluid is hydrophilic so it absorbs water from air. as it absorbs it darkens. most of the fluid in the system is in the reservior. i usually use a syringe to take the most of it and then add new fresh ones. i repeat this process a few times and its done. I also have a bleeder but have found that this method works as good as using the bleeder.

If you get air please pump the brakes and make sure the pressure returns before driving off.
 

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What they have found is thinner rotors discipate heat better, this is primarily why they are thinner now. Rotor quality has a lot to do with the Metal quality in the rotor. Honda uses mid to high quality rotors. so if you choose to replace them use Premium quality
 

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The dealer will charge you double of an indy shop and not do anything any better or provide you any better parts.

I am sorry, Honda Rotors are crap and I would never put them back on my van. Better rotors can be had at an indy shop

Thinner rotors are not better

Here is my guess as to what they will tell you, this is what I was told by my dealer at 50k (original pads and rotors) and the van was in there for a torque converter, not brakes

They said I needed new rotors all the way around (they were correct), their price was $430 + labor (I got aftermarket ones that rock for less than half that)
They said I needed pads all the way around (they were correct), their price was $180 + labor (I got aftermarket name brand pads for $40 - rebates involved)
They said I needed the brake fluid flushed (they were correct), they wanted to charge me $125 (I got aftermarket dot 5.1 fluid for $8)

Overall, the dealer was going to charge me $900 + for brakes. I did it myself in about 2-3 hours for about $260

I did not cut any corners on quality, the parts I put in are performing better than OEM Honda parts (70k on the van now)

so dealer, expect $900, indy shop, expect maybe $500, DIY = much less and it really isn't hard.

You should also avoid places like Brake Masters, Midas, Merchants, etc. They will install the crapiest parts possible and give you a phony warranty that won't help you when have a problem. When you go to an indy shop, you do need to ask them what brand/model parts they are installing and research it.
 

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Alternatively, to extend Kenny's post above, you can find an indy that will use your parts. We have a couple of indys here in Charlotte, NC who will do the labor if you bring your own parts. Most will mandate that you use the parts they procure but some good indys will allow you to bring your own parts.

I was scared of doing my first brake job. Once I opened up everything following the excellent instructions for my Maxima, I found out that brakes was stupidly easy and since then I have done my Accord, buddy's Accord, another buddy's Camry and planning to do buddy's Oddy when it warms up a little. So, I belong to the DIY camp as well.
 

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I just wanted to chirp in on this discussion. I have a 2005 Odyssey with about 132,000 km on it. I had front pads and rotors done on the van at 53,126 km (Nov.25. 2007) - the dealer did the work under warranty. So, basically the front pads and rotors have lasted almost 79,000 km. None of my previous vehicles had pads and rotors that lasted this long. I have been happy with the longevity and performance of the OE pads and rotors.

Based on my experience, I will most likely get the dealer to replace the front pads and rotors - which should be in the next few weeks :)
 

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2nd after markets are good. For what you pay at the dealer you can get the racing slotted and vented kinds. they are the best you can get as the venting keeps things cool and the slot generate some crazy braking power.

when the time comes going to get a setup like that for my van.

DIY is the way to go... i have a small compressor and alittle air wrench that makes these a breeze.
 

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I love drilled/slotted rotors, the ones I put on my Galant had excellent bite, I had to readjust how I drove because I found myself slowing down quicker than I expected. However, slots produce a noise similar to putting a playing card in your bicycle's spokes when you were a child, and while it's not super loud, it can be off-putting to those who don't expect there to be a noise every time you hit the brakes (like my wife, for instance). I think it sounds cool though. Once the time comes for me as well, drilled/slotted is what will be going on our Ody as well. Using hand tools, I can usually do one wheel's disc brakes in like 20 minutes, wheel off to wheel back on. One of those things once I learned, I'd never pay to have a shop do for me.
 

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For the most part I agree with all said. Oh it's Hygroscopic-absorbs moisture. this lowers the boiling point of the fluid and allows it to create lil bubbles when it gets real hot and then you get fade which feels like a squishy pedal. thats when u need a fluid "flush" a complete changing of the systems fluid. usually done under pressure and with an exchanger machine. usually not needed other than every 2 years which is the fluid manufacturer interval recommendation. 2 vs 3 is due to humid climates. up north is 3 yrs or so. if its dark then more often as well. but you could have a bade cap letting dirt soot or other badness into the reservoir. "brake"stores make their money on upsells. the 79 deal is to get u in the door. they usually try to sell calipers and/or rebuild kits for same as "your brakes are shot!!" unless you have sticking brakes (read:smoking and dragging you down) then you DO NOT NEED CALIPERS OR KITS. Most every regular brake interval Honda I've ever worked on only needs pads. the rotors have a minimum wear spec and the shop can mic the rotors and should show you the wear limits if you request them to. If they won't... run!!!! thieves! stick with DOT 4 fluid DOT 5.1 is race fluid and serves no purpose to the normal family car. only difference is boiling points and a normal family car is never gonna reach the temperatures beyond D4. D5 is silicone and WILL NOT mix with any other fluid. D5.1 is full race. D#3 is older requirement for lower spec cars. like in the 1990's and such. lug torque is 85 to 95 lbs /ft. too much more (like the guy with the loud hammer gun ratatatatatatat......) and your rotors will be Pringles and shake your teeth out. a really good tech will use a click type torque wrench. or you can ask to get your wheels hand torqued. this should not be met with resistance. if it is ....run!! good luck and I recommend everyone try to do their brakes at least once. Its fun to know you "did that". and you'll have agood idea that not everything is really that difficult. Of course, be safe. use a good floor jack level surface to work on jack stands, not concrete blocks, the right tools etc. then check and double check. also lay down and stare at the underside for a bit lots of cool stuff to see how it does what it does under there. have fun.
 
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