Honda's recommendation is replacement at 105k miles. You are past due. Not sure what the tick is, could be a number of things.

 

The tick is likely a bad belt tensioner. If it completely fails, your timing will jump and there will be very expensive valve damage.

Honda recommends the belt be changed every 7 years or 105K miles, whichever comes first. In reality, depending on your risk tolerance, driving habits, and climate, it's generally low risk to push it to 10-12 years or 120K or so miles. At 153K, you are way past due.

Buy the Aisin kit from RockAuto, which includes everything you need including the belt, tensioner, and water pump. Don't get another brand, and don't buy from elsewhere as there are a lot of counterfeit belts on Ebay and Amazon.

 

+1 on the tensioner and the aisin kit.

 

+1 for @RockAuto and the Aisin kit.

 

That would be maintenance sub code 3 that comes up on the maintenance minder. It should set that code at the 14th oil change.

 

I never got any code for this. As a matter of fact, we've been lucky with this van, the only thing that we've had to do is a battery. Well, getting ready to change the cables on both sliding doors (which in my opinion should be a recall since they broke within 3 1/2yrs).

Can I expect another 100k miles out of this once I get it done?

 

In case you take on the project, here is an image showing the torque numbers for installing the drive belt auto-tensionser that took me a while to find.

Here are other torque numbers in the order that you will re-install things (most numbers courtesy of ODYCLUB member John Clark):

• Water pump bolts 8.7 ft-lb
• Hydraulic tensioner bolts 8.7ft-lb
• Pulley bolts (both idler and tensioner pulleys) Replace both bolts. Idler pulley 33ft-lb; Tensioner pulley 19ft-lb
• Engine mount bolts Replace all 5 bolts. Torque is 33 ft-lb.
  [*]Engine mount through bolt: Torque is 40ft-lb on the through bolt
• Plastic timing belt cover bolts (install lower cover 1st, then upper covers) 8.7 ft-lb
• Crank bolt 47 ft lb plus 60 degrees; Clean the bolt and washer. Apply new engine oil between bolt head and washer and on the bolt shank where it goes through the crank pulley
• Drive belt auto-tensioner: Upper 33 ft-lb, Lower 16 ft-lb
• Power steering pump mounting bolts 16 ft-lb
• Power steering pump hose 8.7 ft-lb (if you disconnected it)
• Spark plugs (will also be changing those) 13 ft-lb

This service bulletin is also a helpful guide, but not everything in it applies to the timing belt service: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10035005-7816.pdf

NOTE: I just started my Aisin TKH002 timing belt water pump kit project today. Definitely get the Lisle 77080 Heavy Duty 19mm socket for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt... it worked great using it with my 20V DeWalt 1/2" impact wrench.

Here is a great YouTube to guide you through the project:

 

does anybody have the p/n of the bolts that need to be replaced?

 

Thanks all!!! I guess I will be making an appointment to get this done. Sthpawil, I did watch this video part way through. Makes it look nice and simple. But, I don't have access to a lift, which could make this a 1 week job I'll look into getting Aisin kit and finding someone reputable to do this for me. Thanks again!!!!

 

I looked on RockAuto, appears they don't carry the Aisin Kit any longer. Have Gates and Dayco. Neither includes water pump. Any other suggestions on this kit?

 

2014 HONDA ODYSSEY 3.5L V6 Timing Belt, Water Pump & Component Kit | Shop Now at RockAuto

Engine Parts and More for Your 2014 HONDA ODYSSEY at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

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TKH002 - $166.79. They still have it. It's under "timing belt, water pump, AND component kit" that comes with everything.

Yes, you can expect another 100K out of the new timing belt.

Since you have a 2014, if you want to ensure the van gets to 250K+ miles without a major issue, I highly suggest you read up on two things --- VCM and why installing a VCM Muzzler is a good idea, and the importance of regular transmission fluid drains and fills. Doing these two things will ensure the longevity of your van.

 

I have a 2015. Is the part number the same? I can find it searching that number, but no category for timing belt......etc.

Looking under "Belt Drive Component Kit" and only shows Gates and Dayco for my 2015.

 

with that mileage do the valve adjustment, new ruthenium plugs, and replace the thermostat and drive belt and tensioner.
rockauto has most of what you need.
aisin thermostat and gasket.
mahle valve cover gasket and grommets.
continental or contitech drive belt.
Honda blue coolant from the dealer, 2 jugs, you need this anyway if youre changing the water pump.
you can leave the tensioner until it makes noise, or change it as a preventative.
dealer part is best.

 

@tj4ndirish I've done the timing belt job twice: once with a lift in a "real garage" and once without... just a floor jack and jackstands in a barn. It's very do-able without the lift. The handiest part of the lift was actually in removing the splash shields. Speaking of which, you'll want some spare splash shield clips/rivets. I bought a bunch from Amazon and replaced them, as the old ones were brittle.

You'll definitely want the Lisle socket and an impact wrench with decent power. I get a kick out of watching the pros on YouTube, who supposedly do this pretty often, use blow torches, multiple impact wrenches, cheater bars and all kinds of contraptions to break that bolt loose, when that socket will take it off in seconds.

 

Thank dntboles. I saw a youtube video, the guy used a bulky impact socket such as the one you listed and it zipped it off like that (snapping my fingers). May be worth a buy for $25!!!

Should add that my compressor maxes out at 120psi..........think that'll work?

 

Is the transmission filter inline or internal on this 15. I'm seeing conflicting information.

 

Internal. You need to disassemble the transmission to get to it... nobody replaces it. All the more important to change the fluid regularly.

 

2015 and up are 6 speed...

 

2014 and up are 6 speeds.
The codes are for maintenance, not trouble. Once the oil life reaches 15%, codes are set for the maintenance required. I do hope that van has had many trans fluid changes, engine AND cabin filter changes.

 

If I remember correctly, the compressor we just used was 110 psi. I'd guess pneumatic impact wrench "strength" has more to do with it.

If I didn't have access to an impact wrench at all, I'd stop by my local mechanic, maybe a mile from my house and give them the Lisle socket and ask them to break the bolt loose, then tighten it back up to a reasonable level, then drive back home to do the timing belt.

I also forgot to mention, the Lisle socket won't fit inside the special harmonic balancer holding tool, but each time I've removed the bolt, it came off without any visible movement of the balancer. If I were cranking away at it with a breaker bar, it most likely would have moved, like it does when you're re-torqueing it back on.

 

If I remember correctly, the compressor we just used was 110 psi. I'd guess pneumatic impact wrench "strength" has more to do with it.

If I didn't have access to an impact wrench at all, I'd stop by my local mechanic, maybe a mile from my house and give them the Lisle socket and ask them to break the bolt loose, then tighten it back up to a reasonable level, then drive back home to do the timing belt.

I also forgot to mention, the Lisle socket won't fit inside the special harmonic balancer holding tool, but each time I've removed the bolt, it came off without any visible movement of the balancer. If I were cranking away at it with a breaker bar, it most likely would have moved, like it does when you're re-torqueing it back on.

Thanks dntboles. I'm gonna order one and see how it goes! And just curious, my observation................but once you go to reinstall the bolt, won't any 19mm impact socket work since you have to use a torqure wrench anyway? Yes, you'd have to use the holder, but a smaller round socket should do, correct?

 

You will HAVE to use a different 19mm socket for the re-install, as the Lisle one is too big to fit inside the holder tool.

 

Did timing belt on wife’s 01 last year on New Years and used a 24” breaker bar and floor jack handle for more leverage. I had to heat it up.
i just removed my ‘08 MDX timing belt to reseal the oil pump, oil pan and replace a piston and I had no issues breaking those loose with a 30” breaker bar and the same jack handle. Took me about 5 minutes. My daughters 2000 accord needs a timing belt so I’ll try the breaker bar on that one. I plan on buying a Milwaukee M18 for this. I already have the lisle socket.

 

Did timing belt on wife’s 01 last year on New Years and used a 24” breaker bar and floor jack handle for more leverage. I had to heat it up.
i just removed my ‘08 MDX timing belt to reseal the oil pump, oil pan and replace a piston and I had no issues breaking those loose with a 30” breaker bar and the same jack handle. Took me about 5 minutes. My daughters 2000 accord needs a timing belt so I’ll try the breaker bar on that one. I plan on buying a Milwaukee M18 for this. I already have the lisle socket.

best 25 bux I ever spent on a tool.

Amazon.com: Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda, Factory : Automotive

Buy Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda, Factory: Tool Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

BIG +1 on no anti-seize for the bolts.

blue thread locker, YES

 

There’s thread locker on the new idler pulley bolt. So BLUE loc-tite on tensioner pulley, water pump and tensioner bolts?

Blue loc-tite has 10 minutes to set, per the label on the packaging.

 

Follow the FSM.

 

05-06 mentions oiling the idler pulley bolt (and replacing it). 07-10 and 11-17 FSM have NO mention of oiling the idler pulley bolt. (They do mention replacing it along with the tensioner pulley bolt.)

The 05-06 FSM mentions NEITHER anti-seize NOR thread locker on any of the timing compartment bolts.

On the spark plugs, the use of anti-seize or not is up in debate as well. NGK, the manufacturer of the plugs, says no, but FSM says yes.

I am confused.

 

NGK plugs are supposed to have plated threads which do not need anti seize. I always use it…just be careful to not over torque. Go by angle, do not use torque wrench.