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Discussion Starter #1
So my timing belt broke all kinds of damage i replaced water pump, idler pulley, and all the rest. Only bent valves in cyl #5,6. Or at least that is i got codes for misfire in cyl 5, 6. Do I just replace those valves and have the heads done or......
 

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Since this is an interference engine, I'd say you have damage on both heads.
 

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I am being optimistic and assuming that you accomplished a compression check on all cylinders, and only 5 & 6 are exhibiting damage.

If above is correct, replace those valves and have new ones ground into the seats. I would definitely replace the seals on the affected valves as this is a low cost, do-it-while-it-is-apart task.

Most interference engines enduring this type of problem will have damage to the piston skirts as the conflicting valve tilts the piston enough to make this happen....but going on my Gen 2 experience, Odysseys have, literally, cylinder shaped pistons without much in the way of protruding, fragile skirts. I mean, they do have a piston skirt, but it looks pretty strong. Odds are you are okay in that department if I base this on having observed comments by the few others on this forum who have had the same thing happen (timing belt death with engine running).

OF
 

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You can do a top end rebuild but consider the condition of the van. If it's old and falling apart, junk it and get a new one. Or replace the whole motor, which can be cheaper than rebuild. Work out the options.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since this is an interference engine, I'd say you have damage on both heads.
That is probably the case ill redo the comp. chk but since then I noticed ive got a lot of water from the tail pipe. So as the computer diag. shows misfire in 5 and six also ill be pulling at least the 2 5 6 head and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well compression is running at 190 210 200 on the 1,2,3 head and 4 5 6 has 220, 167, 105
QA
I am being optimistic and assuming that you accomplished a compression check on all cylinders, and only 5 & 6 are exhibiting damage.

If above is correct, replace those valves and have new ones ground into the seats. I would definitely replace the seals on the affected valves as this is a low cost, do-it-while-it-is-apart task.

Most interference engines enduring this type of problem will have damage to the piston skirts as the conflicting valve tilts the piston enough to make this happen....but going on my Gen 2 experience, Odysseys have, literally, cylinder shaped pistons without much in the way of protruding, fragile skirts. I mean, they do have a piston skirt, but it looks pretty strong. Odds are you are okay in that department if I base this on having observed comments by the few others on this forum who have had the same thing happen (timing belt death with engine running).

OF
That's what I'm inclined to do cuz everything is so expensive these days, Right?
 

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You're lucky that's its on bank 2 which is much much easier to work on... You bank 1 head is fine.
You could further do a leak down test to diagnose if it's intake or exhaust. I bet you have bent intake valves in one cylinder and exhaust on the other.

Examine the conditions of valve seats and guides to see if they are damaged. If they are good, you will need to replace the bent valves, do a valve lapping on the affected valves at minimum. Depends on the milage of the engine, it's a good idea to check the valve seat width especially the exhausts. If it's out of spec(less than 2mm for exhaust), you may want to do a 3-angle cut on the seats.
If you are DIY, you want to test valve sealing by using water and compress air before putting the head back on. If a machine shop is doing the job, ask them to do a cylinder head compression test after repair.

You will need to replace the head gasket, intake gasket and 2 water passage gaskets and some self-locking nuts for the exhaust pipe. If you don't need to mill the head(I don't think you need it), you can do all of it yourself.

QA

That's what I'm inclined to do cuz everything is so expensive these days, Right?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You're lucky that's its on bank 2 which is much much easier to work on... You bank 1 head is fine.
You could further do a leak down test to diagnose if it's intake or exhaust. I bet you have bent intake valves in one cylinder and exhaust on the other.

Examine the conditions of valve seats and guides to see if they are damaged. If they are good, you will need to replace the bent valves, do a valve lapping on the affected valves at minimum. Depends on the milage of the engine, it's a good idea to check the valve seat width especially the exhausts. If it's out of spec(less than 2mm for exhaust), you may want to do a 3-angle cut on the seats.
If you are DIY, you want to test valve sealing by using water and compress air before putting the head back on. If a machine shop is doing the job, ask them to do a cylinder head compression test after repair.

You will need to replace the head gasket, intake gasket and 2 water passage gaskets and some self-locking nuts for the exhaust pipe. If you don't need to mill the head(I don't think you need it), you can do all of it yourself.
V
Oh yea thanks for the tips re: tests on what not. It's just like that exhaust v in 5 and intake. In 6.
 

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So my timing belt broke all kinds of damage i replaced water pump, idler pulley, and all the rest. Only bent valves in cyl #5,6. Or at least that is i got codes for misfire in cyl 5, 6. Do I just replace those valves and have the heads done or......
What was the year and mileage when the belt failed?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What was the year and mileage when the belt failed?
It was over due for sure prob my was due about the time I bought it. But the good news is all's well did the machining and grinding my self old s hoop style with Emory cloth and a steel rule that old 3Lady fired up the first crank although I will be re adjust g the valves . set them loose cuz to tight is only good with well you know.
 

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BTW what year of the van was this? Did you just sand valves and seats? Bent stems don’t magically fix themselves. Surely you replaced bent valves.


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