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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone had a timing belt failure on a 2005-2010? If so, care to list details? My 05 has 97k and wondering if I should have it done. Don't really want to throw $700 into it at the moment.

Thanks
Yamabiker
 

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Timing belt failure on a Honda (interference motor) pretty much means rebuilding the top half of your engine... Replacement is a good idea. Should not be due for a few thousand more miles however. Check the manual, usually Honda recommends 105k-ish.
 

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If I remember correctly, the notification showed up on ours at around 105k. You probably have a bit of a cusion, but as BadBart indicated, the engine is an interference design - you really don't want the belt to snap on you.

Of you have the time, it's a DIY job for around $350-400 in parts (belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, serp. belt, coolant) - less if you go with something other than OEM.
 

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Any reported water pump failures on the board?
 

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I would caution you about non-OE/cheap parts for the water pump especially.

I had a cheap after market water pump put it my 91 Accord during a timing belt replacement, and the thing was really loud. Sounded like I had a turbo under the hood almost. Out of the box it was noisy. Not a bad part, if worked fine, was just really loud.

Eventually had it replaced again after discovering that the Tuffy's shop I had do the belt did it incorrectly... another warning- pay for a good mechanic. The $50 difference on the $500 job I saved going to Tuffy's instead of the dealer ended up costing me $750...

Pay for good brand name parts, or get OE for stuff that important/integrated into your engine.

BB
 

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That's one of the reasons I would consider running the original waterpump another 100k. If it's working great why replace it. You can end up with a bad part (even with OE) or install error. Waterpumps should last 200k easy.
 

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That's one of the reasons I would consider running the original waterpump another 100k. If it's working great why replace it. You can end up with a bad part (even with OE) or install error. Waterpumps should last 200k easy.
When the water pump fails, it usually cause the timing belt to jump a few tooth and cause engine damage. You may save a few dollars now, but pay thousands on the back end. Water pump don't always last 200k. 150k maybe. It just depends if you are feeling "lucky" Do you? :DD
 

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If I remember correctly, the notification showed up on ours at around 105k. You probably have a bit of a cusion, but as BadBart indicated, the engine is an interference design - you really don't want the belt to snap on you.

Of you have the time, it's a DIY job for around $350-400 in parts (belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, serp. belt, coolant) - less if you go with something other than OEM.
105k miles or kilometers?
 

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105K miles or 160K km or 7 years
 

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When the water pump fails, it usually cause the timing belt to jump a few tooth and cause engine damage.
I don't think that's true. usually when a water pump fails It starts to leak, slowly at first and then faster. Sometimes you'll get a squeak or rattle.
 

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IMHE, Honda temp gauges have three positions;

1) Off
2) OK
3) Too late, replace head gaskets now.

The system needs pressure to maintain temp, needless to say no air bubbles from a leaking (water pump, hose, tstat, etc)

If you're going to all the trouble to do a belt...and the wp is *right in front of you* is it worth the savings?
 

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***snip***
If you're going to all the trouble to do a belt...and the wp is *right in front of you* is it worth the savings?
I think OdyProspect's point was that you could replace a good water pump with a defective new one. Then you would be into a second, needless tear-down.

In theory you could get a bad WP off the shelf. But I think the odds are greater that the old WP will fail before the next timing belt is due. I am still in favor of replacing the WP along with the TB.
 

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I don't think that's true. usually when a water pump fails It starts to leak, slowly at first and then faster. Sometimes you'll get a squeak or rattle.
The last two Honda water pumps I replaced were driven by the timing belt, and were cogged to engage the teeth on the timing belt.

The gland seals were nice and tight, but that masks how well the bearing is holding up.

I've never run a water pump to over 200,000 miles, since I replace them with the timing belt and tensioners. That sealed bearing has no opportunity for a fresh shot of grease via a grease zerk.

I've never felt "lucky". I don't mind over-driving the timing belt change interval by 10%, or even a little more than that. Just never felt comfy making the water pump go 100% longer than the other sealed-bearing components (like the serpentine and timing belt tensioner pulleys).

OF
 

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"I've never run a water pump to over 200,000 miles"

This is obviously not a Chrysler Minivan forum... ;-)

BB
:D I hear ya'. I've experienced the pain of Chrysler ownership. When I was in the military, I think the motor pool troops felt that the Chrysler penta-star logo was the sign of the devil, fomenting the evil spirits of failing differentials, rumbling wheel bearings, non-functioning ignition systems, and so on...but the water pumps held up for as long as the rest of the vehicle (which wasn't very long).

Getting back on track...those Honda water pumps all looked good when I removed them during their respective timing belt services. I just never had any way to check how much life was still left in them, so I just replaced them.

Yeah, it did grate on me a little, since the bearings were still tight, and the gland seal was in great shape. Oh well, the peace of mind is worth it.

OF
 

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I have had a brand new Toyota water pump fail in less than 1000 miles, whereas my Xterra has 220k miles and is still on the original pump. On the Odyssey, when the time comes to replace the timing belt, unless the water pump is showing signs of impending failure, I plan on leaving the original in place.
 

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The last two Honda water pumps I replaced were driven by the timing belt, and were cogged to engage the teeth on the timing belt.
The new belts are not cogged - the pulley is smooth and driven by the backside of the belt.

All of the bearings had a little play when I changed out the idler, tensioner/tensioner pulley, and water pump - I used OEM for everything. I look at it this way - while the old stuff might have made it another 100k, the odds of them not are far greater than putting in new stuff and having it last 100k miles...

I dunno - it's a dangerous game - if anything fails in that train (idler pulley, tensioner pulley, or waterpump) odds are the timing belt will get shredded, and since the van has an interference engine, that's sort of an expensive failure...
 

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I think you meant that the V6 water pump pulleys are not cogged; but you're so right, V6 is "newer" in the Honda universe of engines. Those last two Honda T-belt procedures I accomplished were I-4's (one V-Tech, one not...the latter one being a 1993 Accord sedan). My two Odys will need the timing belt procedure in the next year.

....I dunno - it's a dangerous game - if anything fails in that train (idler pulley, tensioner pulley, or waterpump) odds are the timing belt will get shredded, and since the van has an interference engine, that's sort of an expensive failure...
Worded better than I could've said.

OF
 
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