without visible confirmation of all your timing marks, its a WAG for an internet diagnosis.

 

Most likely the rear head timing is off.

 

There are only two banks, 1 and 2.

The rear bank is bank 1, with cylinders 1-2-3 from left to right (when standing in front of the car, looking back at the engine).

If those 3 misfire and nothing else does, you would get P0300 (multiple misfires), P0301, P0302, and P0303 for misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 3. You might even get 4,5,6 due to inaccuracy in how the system identifies who is to blame for the rough running (it monitors things via crank position sensor pulses).

Definitely yes on a timing error being the likely cause of all 3. If your rear bank is off by a single tooth, you'd expect those misfire codes, it would probably idle very roughly, maybe appear not bad when revved up. I know this, because that is about how my 1999 ran after I did its first TB job. My error was because I was lining up two different sets of tick marks on the cam sprockets - the ones for when the covers are off, and also the ones for when you look through the hole.

A few different ways to move the timing over. Could take it all apart is one way. What I did involved using a bolt in the TB tensioner and loosening the forward TB pulley, giving enough slack to slide the belt one tooth over as needed.

Here is one I saw on YouTube, which appears interesting. I'd probably use something softer, like a piece of rubber hose, rather than a little bit. It makes sense, and appears easy. I would go slowly, giving the TB tensioner time to release oil pressure.

 

I appreciate you. I do have those exact codes coming up and yes when you rev the engine it all seems to be ok. I guess I have to go back in there and do it all over again

 

There are only two banks, 1 and 2.

The rear bank is bank 1, with cylinders 1-2-3 from left to right (when standing in front of the car, looking back at the engine).

If those 3 misfire and nothing else does, you would get P0300 (multiple misfires), P0301, P0302, and P0303 for misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 3. You might even get 4,5,6 due to inaccuracy in how the system identifies who is to blame for the rough running (it monitors things via crank position sensor pulses).

Definitely yes on a timing error being the likely cause of all 3. If your rear bank is off by a single tooth, you'd expect those misfire codes, it would probably idle very roughly, maybe appear not bad when revved up. I know this, because that is about how my 1999 ran after I did its first TB job. My error was because I was lining up two different sets of tick marks on the cam sprockets - the ones for when the covers are off, and also the ones for when you look through the hole.

A few different ways to move the timing over. Could take it all apart is one way. What I did involved using a bolt in the TB tensioner and loosening the forward TB pulley, giving enough slack to slide the belt one tooth over as needed.

Here is one I saw on YouTube, which appears interesting. I'd probably use something softer, like a piece of rubber hose, rather than a little bit. It makes sense, and appears easy. I would go slowly, giving the TB tensioner time to release oil pressure.

There are only two banks, 1 and 2.

The rear bank is bank 1, with cylinders 1-2-3 from left to right (when standing in front of the car, looking back at the engine).

If those 3 misfire and nothing else does, you would get P0300 (multiple misfires), P0301, P0302, and P0303 for misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 3. You might even get 4,5,6 due to inaccuracy in how the system identifies who is to blame for the rough running (it monitors things via crank position sensor pulses).

Definitely yes on a timing error being the likely cause of all 3. If your rear bank is off by a single tooth, you'd expect those misfire codes, it would probably idle very roughly, maybe appear not bad when revved up. I know this, because that is about how my 1999 ran after I did its first TB job. My error was because I was lining up two different sets of tick marks on the cam sprockets - the ones for when the covers are off, and also the ones for when you look through the hole.

A few different ways to move the timing over. Could take it all apart is one way. What I did involved using a bolt in the TB tensioner and loosening the forward TB pulley, giving enough slack to slide the belt one tooth over as needed.

Here is one I saw on YouTube, which appears interesting. I'd probably use something softer, like a piece of rubber hose, rather than a little bit. It makes sense, and appears easy. I would go slowly, giving the TB tensioner time to release oil pressure.

I do have a maybe stupid question but would I have to remove the belt again after I time it correctly this time around and rerun the belt again. I don't know if that makes sense. Thanks again.

 

Quick answer - no you don't need to fully remove the belt. The crank pulley can stay in place. Longer answer below.

You're not the first one to be in this situation. If you search on here, you'll find many stories of how people got out of this problem. To expand a little on the 3 options I mentioned above:
For any of them:

• you'll want to get the cams and crank as close to alignment as possible. E.g., crank and one cam will be perfect, and the other cam will be off by a single tooth.
• Then depending on the approach, you'll need to remove the plastic cover to expose one or more sprockets.
• Prior to doing any of the methods, if you use an M6 screw in the TB tensioner you'll be able to slowly compress it to take some tension off the belt making it easier. In any of these methods, the rate of compression must be slow and careful to avoid damaging the tensioner oil seal.

The 3 methods I referred to. Sure there are others.

• youtube video - do something like that (as mentioned, something softer than a bit is what I would use) to fix the one sprocket that is out.
• 
  
• loosening the belt, loosening the forward idler pulley - this is the next easiest of the 3. It's what I did on my '99 20 years ago. Loosening the pulley gives you enough slack to hold the belt still while you can turn the one sprocket as needed. I think I found that method in the '99 service manual, so it's not like I invented it.
• 
  
• maximally invasive - this is what most people on this forum seem to advocate in other threads. Basically compress and fully remove the tensioner, adjust belt freely as needed, reinstall tensioner as if you are following the original instructions. So big picture, you are back-tracking on everything in the full TB procedure until you have removed the problem and can then proceed forward again. But, for example, you do not need to remove the crank pulley; you can align the crank pulley / crank sprocket using the alignment mark from the crank pulley to the plastic cover. That of course is a major part of the job.

Attached are some PDFs I scanned from my 2011 service manual (should be the same for your car). All of these have been posted up here in years past. The last one there, timing check.PDF, may be one to start with - showing how to check timing without doing any major disassembly. If you can do that with confident results, it may help you decide how to proceed.

 

Thank you so much. I appreciate your time![/QUOTE]

 

Just an update. I was able to fix it. Looks like what I might've did was pull the rear cam back a tooth when I was placing the new timing belt on and moved it back. So I was able to do option with the m6 screw loosen the tension and fix that rear cam.