[alikat3]

Hi
I am in the process of doing the timing belt(first time ).I really did quite a lot of prep reading many DIY threads etc.
I did the starter "bump"to get CS bolt off and all seems ok so far....except I did not remove old belt yet,I can pretty easily align the camshafts by turning the CS gear, the marks on both cams line up dead on.I am confused about the
the crank alignment,the key is at 12 oclock just like all the pics and I can see the tiny arrow but I notice on the gear a tiny"dimple" at around 4oclock??? Is some thing wrong, should this tiny dimple be lined with the arrow?? if so the gear key would be around 4 oclock position and then cams would be off.
so my big dillema is should that tiny crank gear dimple line with arrow?? I moved the crank a few times and belt does
not look bad and I did not touch the tensioner or idler.
any help GREATLY APPRECIATED.

I just went and bought the haynes book and it does not say anything about crank dimple or key

 

[aaronm]

Before you take off the belt, mark the belt, crankshaft, and camshaft. I used a silver sharpie. White-out would work too. With the belt and gear teeth marked then take off the belt. Then I marked the new belt exactly the same as the old belt. I counted teeth on the belt to make sure. Then the marks on the new belt just have to line up exactly with the marks you made on the crank and camshaft gears. There'll be no ambiguity as to whether it's on correctly.

I think you can ignore the dimple. Is there a short line stamped into the metal?

 

[OdyinNH]

Do what aaronm says, it takes all the guesswork out of it. You should be at TDC first and it would help to wedge something like a piece of wood behind each of the crank pulleys so they don't move. Except for initial line-up for TDS I didn't bother with any OEM marks just marked the belt and pulleys transferring the mark to the new belt. I've done a bunch of cars this way, huge time saver. Turn the motor over by hand after done but realize it takes many revolutions for the belt marks to line back up so don't worry about that part.

 

[alikat3]

I finally just found the tiny stamped arrow after cleaning the crank shaft gear ,it is exactly at the key for the pulley...very tiny arrow for sure. the dimple ??must be a balance grove perhaps.
I was expecting it to be so obvious to find ..not so at first.
thanks for the help.
I used white out to clearly mark TDC on all points.

 

[alikat3]

Thanks for info. I am well on my way but wonder why the rear camshaft moves quite easily away from its TDC position when positioning the new belt, is it ok to put it back to TDC both clockwise , or counter clockwise, it seems like it wants to fight me to get back in correct alignment.
I guess to what i am asking is to get back to camshaft TDC do we always move clockwise??
I got it back to alignment but felt it want ed to bang forward or backward if I did to put it "in its place.

thanks

 

[alikat3]

btw no short line stamped into the metal

 

[mjody]

The best way to put the belt on is to rotate the reaar cam clockwise 1/2 tooth, it won't jump on you. Then route the belt over the crank, to idler pulley, over front cam gear, water pump, rear cam gear, and then slip over tensioner pulley. The rotate the back cam back the 1/2 tooth. Pull pin from tensoiner and all should be tdc and perfect tension.

 

[spicyTuna]

Ya once you take the belt off the cam gears will shift a little. Ive never done a belt on an ody but on my eclipse I would use a binder clip to hold the new belt on the cam gear when I tension the new belt which can sometimes slip off the cam gear.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

[mjody]

Ya once you take the belt off the cam gears will shift a little. Ive never done a belt on an ody but on my eclipse I would use a binder clip to hold the new belt on the cam gear when I tension the new belt which can sometimes slip off the cam gear.

The cam gears will not shift a bit once the belt is off on an Ody. If at TDC, you can advance the back cam 1/2 tooth and it will stay.

 

[aaronm]

btw no short line stamped into the metal

I guess I meant stamped arrow instead of stamped short line. I couldn't remember exactly what it looked like.

 

[alikat3]

hi
I am trying do do as you suggest, however when I move the rear cam from TDC it has tension
which I hope is normal and it "snaps' or jumps to 2 oclock?? (like a mouse trap) I put cam back to TDC and try to go back (counterclock) it "snaps " or jumps to 10 oclock??
I removed all spark plugs prior and not sure if this jumping happens on rear cam.

 

[alikat3]

yup
Is a tiny arrow, I got the belt on but crank is off one tooth, so I need to adjust belt again.
I suppose I should not pull the pin on hydraulic tensioner until I can rotate at least 6 times w/out
losing TDC.
the rear cam is a bit of a bear !!

 

[mjody]

Hey alikat, the rear cam gear should not jump even with plugs in if you bump it forward 1/2 tooth.
Be patient. Set the crank at TDC. The cams are easy to align. Follow the belt routing as I posted. The last step is to slide the t-belt over the tensioner pulley, it will be snug but should go n easy.
Before pulling the pin, grab the t-belt and make sure it is snug everywhere but at the tensioner.
The pop the pin out.

 

[aaronm]

Yes, that cam was a bit of a challenge to get it to stay in place. I used a plastic clamp to hold the belt onto the correct teeth of the cam. Maybe another set of hands can hold the belt on that cam and prevent it from moving.

 

[mjody]

The rear cam can jump if spun too far. But there is no damage if it does jump a few teeth. I find it can move forward 1/2 tooth and stays there as you put the belt over it. Once you pull the tensioner pin it pulls the cam back that one 1/2 tooth.