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I’m planning to install a Tru-cool 4544 transmission cooler on my Odyssey tomorrow and was wondering if you guys have any tips or videos you could direct me to. I briefly looked at this forum and couldn’t find anything. Do most of you guys use the included plastic ties to connect it directly to the radiator? It also needs to be flushed so I was going to install it after but maybe I should do it first? Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Etrailer has great videos and it really doesn't matter if it is the same cooler. It's somewhat time consuming, but not terribly difficult. Best done when you aren't rushed for time. I think I had 2.5-3 hours in my install, but I never put myself "on the clock" when it's a job I haven't done before. When I finish I always feel like I could nearly cut the time in half if I did another one right away.
 
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I flushed my trans before the install. I figured there was no reason to push dirty fluid through a new cooler. Once the cooler was installed I filled the cooler in place and put the top hose on.

You might want to buy some Honda plastic panel pop rivets. IIRC there are about 20 to take out and I broke four or five in the process.

Otherwise it was a pretty simple install that went pretty smoothly thanks to the etrailer videos.

Good luck!
 

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I’m planning to install a Tru-cool 4544 transmission cooler on my Odyssey tomorrow and was wondering if you guys have any tips or videos you could direct me to. I briefly looked at this forum and couldn’t find anything. Do most of you guys use the included plastic ties to connect it directly to the radiator? It also needs to be flushed so I was going to install it after but maybe I should do it first? Thanks in advance for the help.
I used these instructions to install a 4452 on my 2006 EX-L. I used the metal brackets, not the push-throughs. I wanted the extra air flow behind the ATF cooler. The instructions worked really well.

http://www.ctrout.com/CPI/Ody/ATF1/ATF-CoolerInstallationNotes.pdf

The 4544 is bigger, so I don't know if the metal brackets method will work in the Gen 4 as easily. (I'll find out soon, the cooler is supposed to be delivered on Monday) There is also a pipe running in front of the condenser (Power steering fluid cooler, perhaps?) that may be in the way. When I did my 06, I replaced the stock PSF cooler (pipe) with the upgraded OEM finned PSF cooler that was made for use with the towing package. I called around and there is no upgraded OEM PSF cooler for the Gen 4. I guess it's not really needed. Probably wasn't needed in the Gen 3 either.
 

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I recently installed the Hayden cooler from Amazon. Same size as the trucool I think. I rotated the cooler to an up-in / down- out configuration. I find this allows me to run the hoses more efficiently. I had to drill a couple of hose-sized holes on a thin black plastic piece between the radiator and driver size headlight. Also, the touch test on transmission inlet / outlet wasn't obvious at all. I still don't know if I picked the right one :ROFLMAO: I worked on it after the van hadn't been driven for a couple of hours. The residual transmission heat on startup led me to pick the warmer line. I attempted to test it a couple more times afterwards but couldn't tell the difference as the fluid became more evenly heated ..or my touch became more desensitized...
Be sure to put in more fluid to compensate for the extra volume in the cooler. I guess subsequent drain fill would just need the normal volume.. e.g 3.2 qt.
Good luck.
 

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I recently installed the Hayden cooler from Amazon. Same size as the trucool I think. I rotated the cooler to an up-in / down- out configuration. I find this allows me to run the hoses more efficiently. I had to drill a couple of hose-sized holes on a thin black plastic piece between the radiator and driver size headlight.
Did you use the metal bracket method or the plastic push throughs? Why did you chose whichever method you used?

Also, the touch test on transmission inlet / outlet wasn't obvious at all. I still don't know if I picked the right one :ROFLMAO: I worked on it after the van hadn't been driven for a couple of hours. The residual transmission heat on startup led me to pick the warmer line. I attempted to test it a couple more times afterwards but couldn't tell the difference as the fluid became more evenly heated ..or my touch became more desensitized...
This part of the install discussions always confuse me. I did the mechanical installation on the 06, but I took it to a shop to be plumbed. I didn't want to plumb it lying on my back in the driveway, so for $75, a local tranny shop plumbed it for me. Therefore I haven't had to deal with the tranny side "in-out" ports yet. What I don't understand is why it is still a question as to which is which. With all the tranny coolers that members of the Gen 3 and Gen 4 forums have installed, why isn't there (or is there?) a picture of the tranny-side ports with big yellow arrows or red circles or even just a greasy finger letting us all know which one is which? It seems like everyone tries to figure it out on their own.

If all goes as planned, I'll be installing my 4544 with a certified Honda technician who owns his own shop. (He changed the tranny on my Gen 2). We're bartering. We're going to work together to install the cooler and Draw-Tite hidden hitch and I'm going to sell him my 06 for a price that'll give him a chance to make a little more money when he sells it. He sells Honda's, usually bought at auction, as part of his business. I'm sure he know which port is which. :)
 

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Did you use the metal bracket method or the plastic push throughs? Why did you chose whichever method you used?

Didn't use metal bracket as I didn't want to drill into the metal body frame. Just used the plastic zippy clips.



This part of the install discussions always confuse me. I did the mechanical installation on the 06, but I took it to a shop to be plumbed. I didn't want to plumb it lying on my back in the driveway, so for $75, a local tranny shop plumbed it for me. Therefore I haven't had to deal with the tranny side "in-out" ports yet. What I don't understand is why it is still a question as to which is which. With all the tranny coolers that members of the Gen 3 and Gen 4 forums have installed, why isn't there (or is there?) a picture of the tranny-side ports with big yellow arrows or red circles or even just a greasy finger letting us all know which one is which? It seems like everyone tries to figure it out on their own.

If all goes as planned, I'll be installing my 4544 with a certified Honda technician who owns his own shop. (He changed the tranny on my Gen 2). We're bartering. We're going to work together to install the cooler and Draw-Tite hidden hitch and I'm going to sell him my 06 for a price that'll give him a chance to make a little more money when he sells it. He sells Honda's, usually bought at auction, as part of his business. I'm sure he know which port is which. :)
 

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...What I don't understand is why it is still a question as to which is which. With all the tranny coolers that members of the Gen 3 and Gen 4 forums have installed, why isn't there (or is there?) a picture of the tranny-side ports with big yellow arrows or red circles or even just a greasy finger letting us all know which one is which? It seems like everyone tries to figure it out on their own....
If you can believe that 90% of what is written on this forum is wrong, then the solution seems simple: figure out what everyone agrees upon and then do the opposite. ( :ROFLMAO: just kidding, but not completely) But I do promise you that if someone were to do a careful compilation of all the info on the intertubes giving the answer to this question (perhaps varying for different years and ATs), they would find conflicting answers.

So wanting 100% certainty, none of that info is good enough. So I just test it (and on any car where I need to install something like this - filter, cooler, etc.) with a quick (fraction of a second) blip on the starter to see which hose ATF comes out of.

Back on the main topic here ... I put 4544s in both my Odysseys, very happy with both. On the '99 it was a noticeable upgrade from the genuine Honda external cooler I had previously on there.

Main point on the instructions - if you have a basic idea of how to do things on cars, you don't need to find instructions specific to the 4544. Good instructions for any other cooler for the right year and model will tell you how to take off the bumper, what needs to be cut, etc., and that is the main thing you need to know.

Then once you get to the actual cooler installation, there are a bunch of personal preference things like: installing with a filter in-line? attach to AC condenser or with brackets? cooler orientation? keep existing hoses in place or replace it all? remove radiator to flush built-in ATF cooler? How best to armor the hoses against abrasion or cuts?

And all those have more than one good answer, so probably any video you find will not have the best answers for your preferences, so you will need to think a little to get yourself the best solution, no matter what.
 

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So wanting 100% certainty, none of that info is good enough. So I just test it (and on any car where I need to install something like this - filter, cooler, etc.) with a quick (fraction of a second) blip on the starter to see which hose ATF comes out of.
All good info...just one question:

Can you blip the starter on a vehicle with push button start?

Oh wait...2 questions:

What if you are working alone? ;)
 

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All good info...just one question:

Can you blip the starter on a vehicle with push button start?

Oh wait...2 questions:

What if you are working alone? ;)
No idea on the push button start - I've never had a car like that (closest is my Prius that has a button to turn it on, but it starts and stops the engine whenever it feels like it). But YEAH, you don't want it to start the engine and run for a while, or even have it crank for 10 seconds. I have a standalone engine remote control starter (a button with wires using 1930s technology) to hook on to any starter and bypass everything else.

Working alone is usually how I do it. For these tests, I would stuff a piece of rolled up paper towel into each opening. One of them will be found to have popped out, and the other will be in place.

EDIT - and BTW on my earlier joke (that is actually true) about all the wrong info out there - you would not even be able to get a consensus on which side is left vs. right. And of course something like that plays directly into most descriptions about which one of two options to choose from.
 

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No idea on the push button start - I've never had a car like that (closest is my Prius that has a button to turn it on, but it starts and stops the engine whenever it feels like it). But YEAH, you don't want it to start the engine and run for a while, or even have it crank for 10 seconds. I have a standalone engine remote control starter (a button with wires using 1930s technology) to hook on to any starter and bypass everything else.
Will your 1930ish rig work on a vehicle with a push button start? After all, that is what we are discussing here. So, when you say that you "test it" on any car where you need to install a cooler, I'm curious as to how you would do that on a 2014 Honda Odyssey.

EDIT - and BTW on my earlier joke (that is actually true) about all the wrong info out there - you would not even be able to get a consensus on which side is left vs. right. And of course something like that plays directly into most descriptions about which one of two options to choose from.
You will note that I mentioned yellow arrows, red circles and greasy fingers. With all the videos and images posted in this forum, I'm still wondering if anyone has posted an video/image that shows the in & out ports on the tranny of a Gen 4 Ody, labeled as such. You know, someone like you, who did their testing and then took a picture. Maybe even a video of the paper towel popping out. It would be pretty hard for anyone to dispute the validity of that information.
 

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Will your 1930ish rig work on a vehicle with a push button start? After all, that is what we are discussing here. So, when you say that you "test it" on any car where you need to install a cooler, I'm curious as to how you would do that on a 2014 Honda Odyssey.

You will note that I mentioned yellow arrows, red circles and greasy fingers. With all the videos and images posted in this forum, I'm still wondering if anyone has posted an video/image that shows the in & out ports on the tranny of a Gen 4 Ody, labeled as such. You know, someone like you, who did their testing and then took a picture. Maybe even a video of the paper towel popping out. It would be pretty hard for anyone to dispute the validity of that information.
If I had to do it on a car with push-button start, I would use that tool. Here is an example.

Basically the trigger closes the circuit between the two alligator clips. They have been optimizing this device since the 1930s, turning it from an inflation adjusted $40 tool into this $5 tool sold on Amazon for $13. Really cheap and simple.

Generally at the starter, there will be a fat +12V always powered cable coming straight from the battery - short, fat, simple, nothing else in the path since it will be carrying several hundred Amps when needed. And it will be disconnected from the starter circuit by a solenoid / bendix that simultaneously closes the circuit and engages the starter gear. The car will have an ignition system, immobilizer system, some fuses, and a starter relay in between +12V and that solenoid. This trigger device bypasses all that, sending +12V to that connection on the solenoid, on the starter assembly. That would blip the starter, or hold it on if you want. General purpose troubleshooting tool.

And really, on your green and yellow arrows thing. I don't want to talk you out of believing something like that, and I'm really not trying to (am just posting info that I expect some people will find useful), but I would still test it even if I found someone's published photo.

For example, you say, "the in & out ports on the tranny of a Gen 4 Ody." You could be the guy that actually does the work, figures it out, makes the annotated diagram and publishes it to the world. Great. And someone could come along, with a Gen 4 Ody and follow that, and it may or may not be right. Because there are at least two ATs I know of on Gen 4 Odysseys. Even just from 2011-2013, they made both 5-speed and 6-speeds. So at the end of the day, some people would be happy to believe it, and then there's me, who would just do the test.

I KNOW so much info that is widely published, discussed, and believed out there is simply wrong. Why would I just believe something like this to be correct when I could just test it? Actually the first time I needed to know this, it may have been when I was installing a Magnefine inline filter, I actually (thinking as you probably are) figured I'd find this published truth. I ended up finding so much conflicting info, and did find an answer I believed with greater than 50% confidence. And of course I tested it and realized all that effort on research was wasted. If the research is going to result in anything less than 100% confidence, I'd test it anyway.

But that's me. I expect many people out there would be happy to have a hopefully accurate annotated photo.
 

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Regarding the trans in/out lines (for the 6-speed)... it is easy to figure out. The return line to the transmission goes to the filter on the trans.



So, in this picture, it is the plastic canister right in the center - that's cooled trans fluid returning to the trans. The other line to its left is the outlet from the trans to the cooler. When you install a supplemental trans cooler, you replace the S-shaped hose with your own lines and cooler.

The picture above is with the battery and battery tray removed, so it isn't easy to see most of the time.

-Charlie
 

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There is also a pipe running in front of the condenser (Power steering fluid cooler, perhaps?) that may be in the way.
Yes, that is the power steering return line that also might do a bit of fluid cooling. Honda removed the recommendation/requirement for a power steering cooler for towing starting with the 4th gen.

-Charlie
 

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Regarding the trans in/out lines (for the 6-speed)... it is easy to figure out. The return line to the transmission goes to the filter on the trans.

So, in this picture, it is the plastic canister right in the center - that's cooled trans fluid returning to the trans. The other line to its left is the outlet from the trans to the cooler. When you install a supplemental trans cooler, you replace the S-shaped hose with your own lines and cooler.

-Charlie
There, fixed it for you. :D Thanks for the info!

 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Well I’ve encountered a disappointing road block. I started the bumper removal this evening and was able to get all the plastic push clips removed (required a metal removal tool to prevent breaking). However, the 10mm bolts on the underneath side were a different story. They all appear to be pretty heavily rusted and the first one I tried to take out didn’t separate from the clip behind the molding and just ended up twisting out the plastic molding. Obviously, I won’t be able to secure that spot anymore and I’m afraid to try the others for fear I’ll get the same results. I sprayed some PB Blaster on the bolts and am planning to allow them to work overnight.

Did anybody else encounter this and how can I work around it??
 

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You will note that I mentioned yellow arrows, red circles and greasy fingers. With all the videos and images posted in this forum, I'm still wondering if anyone has posted an video/image that shows the in & out ports on the tranny of a Gen 4 Ody, labeled as such. You know, someone like you, who did their testing and then took a picture. Maybe even a video of the paper towel popping out. It would be pretty hard for anyone to dispute the validity of that information.
I have the cooler laying in my garage, plan to install in few weeks - would appreciate if you can snap a few photos with the final setup!

I have not tried removing the bumper just yet, bit if you can get an access to the metal brackets the bolts are screwed into - you can usually hold them from spinning with a pair of needle nose pliers or such. Make sure to put some anti-seize on the bolts when assembling them back!
 

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I did the same cooler on my 2012 a few weeks ago. I strongly recommend taking off the front bumper cover. Some of the videos I saw did it and left it on. It was so easy and really made it all better. I think you could do it otherwise but I can't imagine why, I don't think it would save any time.
 
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