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Discussion Starter #1
Hello.

I have a 2000 Honda odyssey with 182000 miles. My transmission was replaced with a Honda reman. @147000. Up until yesterday, the transmission worked flawlessly. No leaks. No problems.

My driveway is moderately steep, and before we left the house yesterday, we noticed a noise coming from the transmission. It was a slight whirring, slightly uneven sounding. In the back of my head i know that im due for a fluid replacement soon, so the first thing i looked at was the aft Dip stick. Fluid levels appear to be slightly lower than the lower hole on the stick. I added some Honda branded ATF that i had on e shelf in my garage. About a quart. I could not figure out where that court could have gone out of a sealed transmission, but made a mental note to have the car checked out at a pro garage asap and left for Christmas with the family about an hour away. The car drove and sounded fine. Whe arrived and stayed for 4 hours and departed that same evening for the 40 mile trip back home.

2 miles into that return trip the transmission started slipping. None of the gears were responsive. It was raining very hard at that point. I pulled over and shut the car down for a minute. Since we were 2 miles from a parking lot, I decided to try to make it. When i started the card and shifted into d4, the transmission grabbed and pulled normally for a half mile, then it did the same thing. With a check engine light on, i decided to have the car towed home.

Tonight I checked for leaks. No problems. The fluid was way over the top dot on the dip stick this time when i checked in my level garage. The code i was getting was a p0730 which, by my book, indicates s problem in the shifting mechanism. I also noticed a high pitched steady whine from the top of the tranny case.

I did a drain and fill with genuine Honda fluid and sure enough i was a quart over.

Since i refilled the transaxle with the proper amount of fluid, i cleared the code and it is staying off however im still getting a high pitched whirring sound from the tranny. I also noticed a clicking solenoid attached to the same hose where the evap service port is located near the driver side firewall...im not sure if this is related.

The car test drives fine at low speed around the block but i dont want to push it with the noise.

After doing a researching here, im thinking of removing and cleaning the solenoids and screens.
Any advice is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One other thing i want to mention. The fluid i took out was close to black. Sup rising for only 35k miles. Im seriously considering some kind of online filter once i get this worked out.
 

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You should do a 4x ATF change asap or use the 'disconnect the AT fluid line from the cooler' method.
Black or dark fluid is not good and should be taken care of ASAP.
You can research on how to do both properly.
Use the Honda Z-1 fluid or whatever Honda recommends now.
Doing a 4x drain and fill with driving in between takes around 13qts or so.
Best of luck.
Buffalo
PS: Cleaning the solenoids and screens and putting in an inline filter (such as a MagnaFine) is a good idea also.
Not sure if the 2000 Ody had a ATF inline filter (fairly hard to get to) in it or not, and many dealers refused to admit there was one and there was no service interval for it.
 

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You HAVE to check the fluid on level ground. Checking on a sloped driveway will always be high or low depending which way it is facing. With the level a quart high it was probably foaming.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I continued work on the van today.

I also Inspected the starter, tubes and did a quick visual on the solenoids and connections. Button her up.

After the drain and fill ( drained 4 replaced 3) I drove it a bit and it still had some shifting issues. Get back to the garage, and Dip stick shows me over. After draining 3/4 of a quart I'm right where I want to be in the stick.

Btw, the book (I'm using Honda oem manual...always) says to check a warm engine on level ground within 90 seconds of shutting the motor off. This is how I'm now checking.

Sound gone. Test drives great. I start close. Branching out slowly. 2 miles, back. 5 miles back. 10 miles. Check engine tcm light. I pull over. Code p0740 this time. Problem in lock up control system. I head back. Tranny starts to slip. I pull over and shut it down. Dip stick shows WAY overfilled.

I don't see how this can be. I should be under if anything.

Parked the van and putting together a plan. Dealer or home...dealer or home. I've got one tow left on my aaa.

The book is telling me with that code I either have dysfunctional solenoid or low pressure.

I thin I'll bring her home and try again. I'm thinking clogged screen or cooler. Flush and inspection. 6 more quarts should clean her out no?

Advice appreciated. Thanks folks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
William Wiles said:
You HAVE to check the fluid on level ground. Checking on a sloped driveway will always be high or low depending which way it is facing. With the level a quart high it was probably foaming.
How would that foaming affect the system?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Buffalo4 said:
You should do a 4x ATF change asap or use the 'disconnect the AT fluid line from the cooler' method.
Black or dark fluid is not good and should be taken care of ASAP.
You can research on how to do both properly.
Use the Honda Z-1 fluid or whatever Honda recommends now.
Doing a 4x drain and fill with driving in between takes around 13qts or so.
Best of luck.
Buffalo
PS: Cleaning the solenoids and screens and putting in an inline filter (such as a MagnaFine) is a good idea also.
Not sure if the 2000 Ody had a ATF inline filter (fairly hard to get to) in it or not, and many dealers refused to admit there was one and there was no service interval for it.
Wish I would have been more patient before pushing it today. That harness down in there is a bear to try and work around. Ill be doing all this on Wednesday. Thanks.
 

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2000 doesn't have an inline filter. But in this case it sounds like your transmission is getting really hot and slipping. Would make sense if one of the screens was clogged up along with the cooler. If it's black as you say, I'd add in an aftermarket cooler and bypass the stock one as it is most likely clogged up. Throw in a B&M remote filter. Just type in remote transmission filter on ebay, change the filters at every oil change. You want the 3/8s hose sized ones. You also want a large transmission cooler with the same sized hose fittings.

I'd make the switch over to synthetic fluid at this point since you are cleaning out the system anyways. See if you can make it reliable enough to sell, because it's probably not got a lot of life left in it.
 

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gregersonke said:
...See if you can make it reliable enough to sell, because it's probably not got a lot of life left in it.
Remind me never to buy a used car from gregersonke...:D

Ditto the rest of what gregersonke said. It's getting hot, and probably foaming, both of wich will cause the initial high level indication and the other symptoms. It could be that crap from the old trany still in the system (in the cooler and lines) was enough to cause flow restriction. Or maybe it's as simple as the factory cooler being fouled and allowing your fluid to overheat...

An aftermarket cooler with a magnafine, B&M, or other filter upsteram of it (assuming the installed is bypassed) could improve reliability once the underlying issue is solved.

When a new trany is installed on a 2000, are we certain it doesn't get an inline filter?
 

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santoli3 said:
Remind me never to buy a used car from gregersonke...:D

Ditto the rest of what gregersonke said. It's getting hot, and probably foaming, both of wich will cause the initial high level indication and the other symptoms. It could be that crap from the old trany still in the system (in the cooler and lines) was enough to cause flow restriction. Or maybe it's as simple as the factory cooler being fouled and allowing your fluid to overheat...

An aftermarket cooler with a magnafine, B&M, or other filter upsteram of it (assuming the installed is bypassed) could improve reliability once the underlying issue is solved.

When a new trany is installed on a 2000, are we certain it doesn't get an inline filter?
Just giving him an option. Also if you are getting the whine sound that's usually the TQ converter going bad. I've had the whine for about 50k now myself. But it's not gotten any worse. I'm thankful for that. But, if you want to keep it longer, set aside 2500 for a new transmission and do all the suggest work on this one, don't push it past 3k rpms. See if the van lasts you until it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the van back in the garage, and I'm getting ready to dig in now. I'm planning a drain, cooler flush, solenoid removal/inspection, and a couple more drain and fills.

Just an FYI:
When I was getting gaskets down at the dealer in Roseville, they told me that transmissions just went up to $3500. Has anybody had a good experience with any of the ebay rebuilders?
 

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one thing I forgot to mention. Whey I did the initial drain, I did notice about a 1/2 tsp of fine grey Im assuming clutch material (looked like mud). very fine, no metal flakes or I would have thrown in the towel a long time ago...
 

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I have seen that Gator transmissions have had good reviews on here.

I got mine in November (thanksgiving weekend) from a place in Florence, SC (found on eBay "Willow Creek Transmissions") with a 2 year unlimited mile warranty. It was $1935 installed (with external cooler) with same day turn around :D. We drove up from Atlanta, dropped it off Friday night, went to Myrtle Beach that night and came back Saturday afternoon for the drive home with a new transmission.

They were very good to work with and I was happy with the service. The only issue I had was a slight leak where the external cooler attached. That was easily fixed after I noticed it.
 

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santoli3 said:
...
When a new trany is installed on a 2000, are we certain it doesn't get an inline filter?
It DOES get an in-line filter as part of a dealer-installed AT replacement. Attached to the bottom of the radiator. After my 3rd AT replacement ('99 with 180k+ miles) I cut open both the Magnefine and Honda in-line filters to see if there was anything interesting. Not really anything unexpected. The Honda in-line filter is primarily a fine metal screen rather than a paper filter like the Magnefine.
 

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Mc viffer said:
one thing I forgot to mention. Whey I did the initial drain, I did notice about a 1/2 tsp of fine grey Im assuming clutch material (looked like mud). very fine, no metal flakes or I would have thrown in the towel a long time ago...
Yep, thats clutch material.

Change out everything, add in a transmission cooler, new hoses, and bypass the stock transmission cooler, as it's likely clogging up on you. Also, don't push engine past 3k-3.5k to keep the heat down.

Usually the start of this process if a driver romps it somewhere while getting onto the interstate or something and overheating the fluid in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Its burnt

All the solinoids and screens looked clean. The filter by the cooler was clear and the cooler was clear (stock)

definately burnt smell now.

its toast.

I wasnt even due for the first flush for another 10k miles. This is crazy.

Thanks for your comments. Ill be researching my options.
 

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You might have just gotten it too hot proceeding to all the other issues. It might be time to shop around a reputable rebuilder. There are a couple of good ones out there. Just search through a few posts.
 

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In the not likely category; let me tell you about a problem I had with my Ranger a few years back:
It has a transmission cooler arrangement pretty much identical to the Honda factory arrangement (Cooler built into the radiator).
I was driving in town (red lights and such) and noticed the coolant temperature was a bit above normal. I didn’t think much of it, it was hot out (upper 90s) and the gage was far from pegged, just a bit high is all. Anyway, a bit later while sitting at a light I noticed it climbing higher. When the light changed, and I went to pull out, the tranny was slipping. By the time I got pulled over and cut the engine, there was transmission fluid spewing onto the ground! There was no issue with the tranny, but the overheating engine coolant raised the transmission fluid temperature via the in-radiator cooler.
After fixing my coolant system problems, all I did to the tranny was to drain it, replace the filter, and refill it. Of course I never had black fluid…
So, how’s your engine temperature?
 

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I think he's experiencing some sort of clogg in the system that he can't get to. It's also likely that at least 1 solenoid has gone bad which is allowing it to heat up dramatically in such a short time.

From the number of stories out there, if you catch the burnt fluid early, you got a good chance of longer transmission life. If you catch it late, you are looking at a week to a few months of good transmission perfomance after replacing the solenoids. I'd try picking up some new solenoids, and doing the test procedure on those before doing it on your old ones. You'll be able to hear the difference between the two if its bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
It runs like a top. No engine issues at all.

Im thinking of either leasing a new one or throwing in a 24 month tranny off eBay. The guy wants 1250 and includes a new torque converter. Of course I will put in an after market cooler and go synthetic? The problem is, can i trust it at this point? What corners get cut on these rebuilds? What do you check for?

Based on local research, it looks like i can get around 3k for my 2000 EX shell with good motor? That's like 9 months of lease payments on an 2011. Im not a fan of car payments but with only 35k on that "Honda" remanufactured transmission, I just don't know how much I can trust an old one with 180k+ on the odometer.
 
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